Orchid Care — and How to Get It to Rebloom, Step by Step
How to care for a Phalaenopsis orchid: watering, placement, and what to do after flowering so it blooms again. A practical guide for beginners.
The Phalaenopsis orchid is the most commonly bought potted orchid, and also the easiest — provided you understand that it isn’t an ordinary plant growing in soil, but an epiphyte that in the wild grows on tree trunks. Its entire care routine follows from this one fact.
Why orchids grow in bark, not soil
In the wild, a Phalaenopsis’s roots wrap around tree bark, have constant access to air, and dry out quickly after rain. That’s why, in a pot, it needs special bark medium (not soil) and a transparent pot — its green roots carry out photosynthesis and let you monitor moisture. This one fact explains all the rules that follow.
Watering — the most common source of mistakes
An orchid is far easier to overwater than to dry out.
- Soaking method: once a week, place the pot in water for 10-15 minutes, then let the excess drain away completely.
- Never leave water sitting in the outer cover pot — waterlogged roots rot.
- Watch the roots through the transparent pot: silvery-green = time to water, bright green = still moist.
Green aerial roots growing out over the edge of the pot are normal — don’t trim them or force them back inside.
Placement
Bright, but without direct sun — an east- or north-facing windowsill is ideal. Too much sun scorches the leaves; too dark a spot prevents flowering.
Getting it to rebloom, step by step
Everyone asks this question once the first flowers have dropped.
- Wait until all the flowers have fallen.
- Examine the flower spike. If it’s still green, cut it back above the second node (bump), counting from the bottom. This often triggers a side shoot and reblooming from the same spike.
- If the spike has dried up and turned brown, cut it off at the base — the plant will send up a new one.
- Provide a trigger for flowering: bright light and a slight drop in night-time temperature (a few degrees) are the natural signal to set a new spike.
Common problems
- Wrinkled, limp leaves — usually a root problem (overwatered and rotten, or, less often, dried out). Check the state of the roots through the pot.
- A yellowing lower leaf — if it’s a single leaf and gradual, that’s natural aging. If several turn yellow at once, suspect overwatering.
- No flowering — too little light, or no night-time temperature drop.
- Pests — Phalaenopsis can be attacked by mealybugs and scale insects; check the leaf axils and the base of the shoots.
Read more about watering different plants correctly in the guide to watering.
Frequently asked questions
How do you water an orchid?
The best method is soaking: once a week, place the pot with the bark medium into a container of water for 10-15 minutes, then let the excess drain away completely. The roots need to dry out between waterings — an orchid rots from constant moisture, not from briefly drying out.
What should you do with an orchid after it finishes flowering?
Cut the spent flower spike above the second visible node (bump) counting from the bottom — this often prompts the plant to produce a side shoot and rebloom. If the entire spike dries up and turns brown, cut it off at the base.
Why won't my orchid rebloom?
To set a new flower spike, an orchid needs bright, diffused light and a slight drop in temperature at night (a few degrees). A spot that's too dark, or a constant, high temperature, are the most common reasons for a lack of reblooming.
