In short
- The ornamental white "spathe" is not a petal but a modified leaf bract; the true, tiny flowers sit on the yellow spadix inside it.
- A moisture-loving plant — it tolerates waterlogging and shallow water over the rhizome, which is why it does well beside a garden pond.
- The whole plant is poisonous — it contains insoluble calcium oxalates that irritate the mouth, throat and digestive tract.
- Frost-hardy only from USDA zone 8 — in the Polish climate the rhizomes are lifted for winter or the plant is grown in a container moved to a cool, bright room.
- A prized cut flower, popular in wedding bouquets — the spadices on stiff, long stalks last a long time in the vase.
Botanical data
- Family
- Araceae (Araceae)
- Height
- 0.6–1 m
- Width
- 0.45–0.6 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7
- Moisture
- Moist, Wet
- Bloom
- May–July
- Hardiness
- USDA 8a–10b
- Propagation
- By division
Characteristics
A rhizomatous perennial forming dense clumps 60-100 cm tall. From a thick, horizontal rhizome grow long-stalked leaves with a heart-shaped to arrow-shaped, distinctly pointed blade, dark green and glossy, appearing coated with a thin layer of wax. The inflorescence is the spadix typical of the arum family: a fleshy, yellow axis on which the tiny true flowers are densely set — female at the base, male higher up. The spadix is enclosed by a large spathe, funnel-shaped and reflexed at the tip, of pure white colour — this is what is commonly taken for the "flower", although it is a modified leaf bract, not a perianth. The spathe reaches 15-25 cm in length and is set on a stiff, leafless stalk rising above the leaves. In Polish conditions flowering usually falls in May-July; in a frost-free climate the plant may be evergreen and flower much longer, whereas in cooler regions it dies back to the rhizome after the season and enters dormancy. The species grows from a rhizome (not a bulb or tuber), which distinguishes it from the colourful Zantedeschia hybrids with tuberous storage organs. Position in sun or bright partial shade, soil fertile, humus-rich and constantly moist, with a neutral to slightly acidic reaction (pH 6.0-7.0). It is the most frost-hardy member of the genus — it overwinters in the ground only from USDA zone 8, and in Poland (zones 5-7) it requires covering or lifting of the rhizomes.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Green Goddess’
- A cultivar with a large spathe, green on the outside and lightening to white in the throat. Vigorous and imposing, prized as a cut flower for its unusual green-and-white colouring.
- ‘Crowborough’
- A selection considered exceptionally tough and the best at withstanding a cooler climate. Pure white spathes, reliable flowering; recommended where the ordinary form tends to disappoint.
- ‘White Giant’
- A very tall cultivar, growing well above the typical species, with large white spathes. Striking at the back of a water bed and as a structural plant.
- ‘Childsiana’
- A dwarf cultivar, compact and abundantly flowering, with smaller white spathes. Works well in containers and at the front of a composition.
- ‘Pink Mist’
- A white spathe with a pink flush and a darker, purple blotch at the base, around the spadix. One of the few coloured selections of this species, of moderate growth.
Growing and care
Watering
A moisture-loving plant — during the growing season the substrate should be constantly moist, never dried out. It tolerates waterlogging and shallow water over the rhizome. Once the leaves have withered, in dormancy, watering is stopped.
Fertilizing
Avoid an excess of nitrogen — it favours lush leaves at the expense of flowers.
Planting
Fertile, humus-rich, constantly moist soil. Over a pond the rhizome is planted in a basket of substrate, with the top just below the water surface.
Pruning
Remove spent spadices together with the stalk and yellowing leaves, cutting them low at the base.
Companion plants
Good companions
Dzielą upodobanie do stale wilgotnego, żyznego podłoża i tworzą naturalną oprawę strefy przybrzeżnej.
Zasłaniają miejsce po żółknących liściach, gdy kalia przechodzi w letni lub zimowy spoczynek.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
Bacterial soft rotInfected fleshy organs — bulbs, tubers, storage roots and succulent stems — rot wet, turning into a slimy, watery, soft mass with a characteristic, unpleasant, putrid smell. The tissue disintegrates, and the skin often remains as a thin bag filled with decomposed flesh. The disease progresses rapidly in warmth and high humidity, especially in storage; it affects onion, garlic, tulip, daffodil, hyacinth and root vegetables. The first symptom is small, translucent, seemingly water-soaked spots that quickly turn brown and soften; at the site of infection the flesh becomes macerated — the bacteria break down the substances that cement the cell walls, so the tissue loses its cohesion and dissolves into a creamy-brown mush. In cross-section the boundary between healthy and diseased tissue is watery and blurred, and a cloudy, slimy ooze often seeps from the injury. In bulbs and the neck of bulbous plants the infection usually starts from the top or from a wound and descends deeper, producing a soft, slippery 'neck'; in potato, soft rot of the tubers links up with blackleg — the blackening, rotting base of the shoot. The bacterium itself does not form mycelium or a visible bloom — this distinguishes it from fungal rot — and the intense stench comes from secondary decomposition by other microorganisms. Symptoms progress fastest at temperatures above about 20°C, with poor ventilation and a film of water present on the surface of the organs.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Moderate | All parts contain insoluble crystals of calcium oxalate (raphides). Ingestion causes a burning pain, swelling and irritation of the lips, mouth and throat; the sap irritates the skin. |
| Dogs | Moderate | Calcium oxalates cause drooling, vomiting and mouth irritation after the plant is chewed. |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
| Horses | Moderate | — |
History and origin
The genus name Zantedeschia commemorates the Italian botanist and physician Giovanni Zantedeschi, who lived at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. The species comes from southern Africa and reached Europe in the 17th-18th century as an orangery plant, in time becoming one of the most popular cut flowers. The common Polish name "kalia" can be misleading: the true calla is Calla palustris, the bog arum — a different genus native to Europe from the same arum family. The English "calla lily" is likewise doubly inaccurate, as the plant is neither a true calla nor a lily. In Western culture the white calla gained strong symbolism — it appears in wedding bouquets and funeral arrangements, and its distinctive, simplified silhouette became a recognisable motif in the painting and photography of the first half of the 20th century. In warm regions with mild winters, including Australia, New Zealand and California, the species has naturalised and is in places regarded as an invasive plant, taking over moist habitats beyond cultivation.
Uses
The calla lily is grown in containers, on terraces, in beds with moist, fertile soil and in the marginal zone of garden ponds. Over water the rhizome is planted in a basket of substrate so that its top sits just below the water surface — the plant tolerates shallow flooding during the growing season. In the ground the rhizomes are set out in spring, after frosts have ceased (April-May), to a depth of about 8 cm and at a spacing of 30-40 cm. Because the species is frost-hardy only from USDA zone 8, in Polish conditions the rhizomes are lifted in autumn and stored in a cool (about 8-10 °C), airy place, or — more commonly — grown in a container that is moved for winter to a bright, cool room with watering reduced. The calla is one of the most important cut flowers in floristry, especially wedding floristry: the stems are cut when the spathe is fully coloured, and they last a long time in the vase. Because of the calcium oxalates the plant is placed with care where small children and pets have access, and when dividing and transplanting the rhizomes it is worth working in gloves, as the sap irritates the skin.
Trivia
- The ornamental white "trumpet" is a floral spathe (a modified leaf), not a flower — the true flowers are tiny, inconspicuous structures on the yellow spadix inside.
- The name "calla" is misleading: the true calla is the bog arum (Calla palustris), a native European marsh plant from the same family.
- The genus Zantedeschia commemorates the Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi.
- In mild climates, e.g. in Australia and New Zealand, the species has naturalised and is sometimes treated as a weed taking over boggy ground.
Frequently asked questions
Is the calla lily poisonous to humans and animals?
Yes. All parts of the plant contain insoluble crystals of calcium oxalate. Chewing them causes a burning pain, drooling, swelling and irritation of the mouth in humans, dogs, cats and horses, and the sap can irritate the skin. The plant should be kept out of reach of small children and animals.
How do I overwinter a calla lily?
The species is frost-hardy only from USDA zone 8, so in Poland it does not overwinter in the ground without risk. The rhizomes are lifted in autumn, dried and stored in a cool (about 8-10 °C), airy place. Plants in containers can be moved for winter to a bright, cool room with watering greatly reduced.
Why is my calla lily not flowering?
The most common causes are too little light, a dried-out substrate, an excess of nitrogen in feeding (lush leaves at the expense of flowers) or the lack of a dormant period. The plant needs a bright position, constantly moist soil during the season and a distinct rest in the cool, after which it starts back into flowering.
Can the calla lily be planted beside a garden pond?
Yes — the calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) is a moisture-loving plant that tolerates waterlogging and shallow flooding of the rhizome. By a pond it is planted in a basket of substrate, with the top of the rhizome just below the water surface. Bear in mind, however, that the rhizomes are not frost-hardy and must be taken out of the water for winter.
When and how deep should calla rhizomes be planted?
In spring, after frosts have ceased (April-May), to a depth of about 8 cm and at a spacing of 30-40 cm, in fertile, constantly moist soil. In a container the rhizome is covered with a few centimetres of substrate, and the pot is placed in a sunny spot or in bright partial shade.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Zantedeschia aethiopicaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Zantedeschia aethiopicaInstitution / botanical garden
- ASPCA — Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants: Calla LilyInstitution / botanical garden
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