Flaming Katy

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana · Flaming Katy (EN) · Flammendes Käthchen (DE)

Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) is a Madagascan pot succulent with fleshy, scalloped leaves and dense umbels of small, long-lasting flowers, coming into bloom in response to short days — the most popular flowering houseplant of the winter season.

Full sun/Partial shade Low watering Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • A succulent — the fleshy leaves store water, so water rarely, once the substrate has dried out.
  • Flowers in response to short days (photoperiodism), just like the poinsettia — this is the key to getting it to bloom again.
  • The flowers last as long as 6–8 weeks, in a rich range of colours.
  • Significantly poisonous to cats and dogs — contains cardiac glycosides (bufadienolides).
  • Strictly a pot plant; in summer it can go out on the balcony, but it does not tolerate frost.
  • The most common mistake: overwatering and water standing in the saucer — it ends in rot.

Botanical data

Family
Crassulaceae (Crassulaceae)
Height
0.2–0.45 m
Width
0.2–0.4 m
Habit
Clump-forming
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Sandy, Humus-rich
pH reaction
pH 6–7.5
Moisture
Dry, Moderate
Bloom
January–May
Hardiness
Propagation
From cuttings, From seed

Characteristics

Forms a compact, branched, subshrubby mound 20–45 cm tall. The leaves are fleshy, thick, glossy, ovate, with a distinctly scalloped (toothed) margin and dark green colouring — typical succulent water stores. The flowers are small, four-parted, gathered into dense, erect, umbel-like inflorescences rising above the leaves; in cultivation they occur in red, orange, yellow, pink and white cultivars, including double ones. The flowering is exceptionally long-lasting — a single inflorescence persists for 6–8 weeks.

Growing and care

Watering

Water only once the substrate has dried out to a depth of 2–3 cm, into the saucer or beneath the leaves — not onto the rosette and not onto the flowers. Pour away excess water from the saucer after a quarter of an hour; it is overwatering, not drought, that is the most common cause of rotting of the root collar.

In summer every ~10 days · drought tolerance: High

Fertilizing

At half strength. Excess nitrogen gives lush leaves at the expense of flowers.

every 3-4 weeks during growth and flowering · nawóz do kaktusów i sukulentów, nawóz do roślin kwitnących

Planting

A free-draining substrate for cacti and succulents, or universal soil with a generous addition of sand or perlite. A small pot, necessarily with a drainage hole and drainage material at the bottom.

Timing: repotting in spring, after flowering has finished

Pruning

Cut out the whole spent inflorescences at the base and shorten the elongated shoots by about a third — the plant will branch out and build a compact form for the next flowering.

Timing: Immediately after flowering. · Caution: Do not leave spent inflorescences “for later” — the plant loses energy on them, and withered flowers lying on the fleshy leaves encourage grey mould.

Companion plants

Good companions

Jade plantPractical observation

A succulent from the same stonecrop family — an identical cultivation regime: free-draining substrate, sun, and watering only once it has dried out.

Mexican snowballPractical observation

The same light and water requirements; together they make striking, mineral compositions in shallow bowls.

Zebra haworthiaPractical observation

A succulent that tolerates the same infrequent watering and free-draining substrate, but has a different habit — a good contrast in a windowsill grouping.

Bad companions

Delta maidenhair fernPractical observation

The fern requires constantly moist substrate and high air humidity — in such conditions the kalanchoe rots at the base.

Ferns and other plants of constantly moist substratePractical observation

A shared, permanently wet substrate leads to rotting of the root collar of a succulent adapted to a dry season.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Mealybugs

Insects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild Ingestion may irritate the digestive tract; the sap can be irritating to the skin. Serious poisonings in adults are rare, but the plant should be kept out of reach of small children.
Cats High The whole plant, and especially the flowers, contains cardiac glycosides (bufadienolides) toxic to cats — they can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, weakness and heart rhythm disturbances. If you suspect it has been eaten, contact a vet immediately. In a home with a cat it is better to do without this plant, or to keep it in a completely inaccessible place.
Dogs High The same cardiac glycosides act toxically on dogs — the symptoms include vomiting, apathy and disturbances of heart function. Requires urgent veterinary consultation.
Rabbits High

History and origin

The species comes from Madagascar and was introduced into cultivation in Europe in the 1930s by the German breeder Robert Blossfeld, whose name the species epithet commemorates. The wild ancestor had only small, red flowers; today's palette of colours and the double forms are the result of intensive breeding work. Because the plant sets buds under short days, growers control the flowering by shading the crop — thanks to which Flaming Katy reaches the shops in bloom all year round, although its natural rhythm is winter and early spring.

Uses

A popular houseplant for bright windowsills, particularly valued for flowering in the winter months, when the home lacks colour. In summer it can be placed on a balcony or terrace, in a sheltered, sunny position. It looks good in mineral compositions with other succulents. Because of its toxicity to animals it should not be placed in homes with cats and dogs that are in the habit of nibbling plants.

Trivia

  • Flaming Katy is a short-day plant: it sets flower buds only once it has had at least 12–14 hours of complete darkness a day for about 6 weeks. It is exactly the same mechanism that makes the poinsettia flower — and the same reason why a plant standing next to a lit lamp in the evening never blooms again.
  • Despite the beauty of its flowers, it is a plant significantly poisonous to cats and dogs — it contains bufadienolides, cardiac glycosides from the same group of action as the substances in foxglove. The flowers contain the most of them.
  • The genus Kalanchoe is famous for its “viviparity”: many species produce ready-made, already rooted plantlets along the leaf margins, which drop off and grow on independently. Hence the Polish common name żyworódka (brood leaf), even though this phenomenon does not in fact occur in K. blossfeldiana.

Frequently asked questions

Why won't my Flaming Katy flower again?

Because it is a short-day plant — it sets buds only when it has 12–14 hours of uninterrupted darkness a day for about 6 weeks. The ordinary light of a lamp in the evening is enough to block this process. To force flowering, after cutting back the spent inflorescences cover the plant at night with a box for a month and a half (for example from 18:00 to 8:00) or move it into an unused, dark room, and put it in a bright position during the day.

Is Flaming Katy poisonous to cats?

Yes, and seriously so. The plant contains cardiac glycosides (bufadienolides), which in cats and dogs can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, weakness and heart rhythm disturbances; the flowers contain the most of these compounds. In a home with animals that nibble plants it is better to do without it, and if you suspect it has been eaten, contact a vet immediately.

How should I water Flaming Katy so that it does not rot?

Rarely, and from below. It is a succulent storing water in its fleshy leaves, so you water it only once the substrate has dried out to a depth of 2–3 cm — in summer roughly every 10 days, in winter as little as every 3 weeks. Pour the water into the saucer or beneath the leaves, never onto the rosette and flowers, and tip away the excess from the saucer after a quarter of an hour. Constantly wet substrate is the shortest route to rotting of the root collar.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/16/2026.

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