Garden chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum × morifolium · Garden chrysanthemum (EN) · Gartenchrysantheme (DE)

The garden chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum × morifolium) is a popular autumn perennial with dense, colourful daisy-like flower heads, one of the emblems of late autumn in gardens and on balconies.

Full sun Medium watering USDA 5a–9a Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • Flowers in autumn, when most perennials have already finished blooming.
  • Needs full sun and a fertile, free-draining soil.
  • Pinching in summer gives a compact habit and more flowers.
  • Planted in spring, it overwinters better than plants bought in flower in autumn.
  • Toxic to dogs and cats (pyrethrins).

Botanical data

Family
Asteraceae (Asteraceae)
Height
0.3–0.9 m
Width
0.3–0.6 m
Habit
Clump-forming
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Full sun
Soil
Humus-rich, Loamy
pH reaction
pH 6–7
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
September–November
Hardiness
USDA 5a–9a
Propagation
By division, From cuttings

Characteristics

A perennial forming compact clumps with lobed, aromatic leaves. The daisy-like flower heads, double or single, come in an exceptionally wide range of colours and are borne in abundance at the tips of the shoots.

Growing and care

Watering

Water regularly at the base, especially during bud formation. Do not wet the leaves – it encourages fungal diseases.

In summer every ~3 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

Regular feeding in summer supports abundant autumn flowering.

every 2 weeks until buds set · nawóz do roślin kwitnących

Planting

Fertile, free-draining soil in full sun; plants set out in spring root in better and overwinter more reliably than those bought in flower in autumn.

Timing: spring (for overwintering in the ground) · spacing 30–50 cm

Pruning

Pinch out the shoot tips until midsummer for a compact habit and more flowers; cut back the shoots after flowering.

Timing: Spring and early summer, and after flowering. · Caution: Do the final pinching by midsummer at the latest – any later delays and reduces flowering.

Companion plants

Good companions

Showy stonecropPractical observation

Both species flower in autumn and love the sun – they extend the decorative season and support pollinators before winter.

Bad companions

Shade-loving plantsPractical observation

The chrysanthemum needs full sun for abundant flowering – in shade it flowers weakly and grows spindly.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Rust

Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Thrips

Very small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild Contact with the plant may cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals.
Dogs Moderate Contains pyrethrins that are toxic to dogs and cats if ingested.
Cats Moderate

History and origin

The chrysanthemum has been cultivated in China for over 2,500 years and is deeply rooted in East Asian culture – in Japan it is an imperial symbol. In Europe it is associated in many countries with autumn and the remembrance of the dead.

Uses

For autumn borders, containers and balcony boxes, and as a cut flower. In cooler regions it is often treated as a seasonal plant.

Trivia

  • Some chrysanthemum species yield pyrethrin – a natural insecticide.
  • In Japan the chrysanthemum is the symbol of the emperor, and the imperial throne is called the Chrysanthemum Throne.

Frequently asked questions

Will potted chrysanthemums survive winter in the garden?

Chrysanthemums bought in flower in autumn rarely overwinter well, as they do not have time to root in. Plants set out in the ground in spring and covered for winter have a better chance.

Why is my chrysanthemum tall and poorly branched?

It has not been pinched – to get a compact, flower-laden habit, pinch out the shoot tips several times from spring to midsummer.

When do garden chrysanthemums flower?

In autumn, usually from September to November – they are short-day plants that set buds as the days grow shorter.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/3/2025.

My note

A private note for this plant — saved in your browser.

Related plants