In short
- Flowers abundantly from May to October.
- Requires full sun and regular deadheading of spent flowers.
- Tolerates brief drought better than overwatering.
- Can be overwintered in a cool, bright room.
- Aromatic leaves naturally deter some insects.
Botanical data
- Family
- Geraniaceae (Geraniaceae)
- Height
- 0.2–0.6 m
- Width
- 0.2–0.4 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- May–October
- Hardiness
- USDA 10a–11b
- Propagation
- From cuttings
Characteristics
A plant with fleshy stems and rounded, often aromatic leaves marked with a darker zone. The flowers are gathered into globe-shaped umbels on long stalks in vivid colours.
Growing and care
Watering
Water at the base once the top layer of substrate has dried out. Tolerates brief drought but not overwatering. Removing spent flowers prolongs flowering.
Fertilizing
Abundant flowering requires regular feeding with a potassium-rich fertiliser.
Planting
Free-draining, fertile substrate in boxes and pots; a sunny position.
Pruning
Remove spent flower heads regularly; in autumn cut back the plants intended for overwintering.
Companion plants
Good companions
A classic companion in window boxes – similar light and water requirements and complementary growth habits.
Bad companions
The pelargonium needs full sun for abundant flowering – in the shade of shade-loving plants it flowers poorly.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
RustRusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Greenhouse whiteflyTiny (1-2 mm) white insects resembling minuscule moths that rise in a cloud when the plant is disturbed. They feed on the underside of leaves, sucking sap and excreting honeydew. This causes yellowing and weakening. Common on tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and pelargoniums, especially in polytunnels and greenhouses. The wings of the adults are covered with a white, waxy bloom (hence the name) and at rest lie flat, roof-tile fashion over the body. Females lay their eggs on the underside of young leaves, often in characteristic arcs or circles, on short stalks. The eggs hatch into mobile first-instar larvae (so-called crawlers), which, once they find a feeding site, lose the ability to move and, as flat, oval, translucent greenish 'scales', attach themselves to the leaf until pupation. Feeding symptoms are pale spots, yellowing and wilting of the leaves and - most troublesome of all - copious honeydew, on which sooty mould (sooty mould fungi) develops, disfiguring leaves and fruit and limiting photosynthesis. In heated greenhouses the whitefly develops without interruption, producing many overlapping generations throughout the year; in the Polish climate it does not overwinter outdoors (it is killed by frost), so the source of infestation is protected cultivation and introduced seedlings, while in summer the insects may fly out into the open ground. The whitefly can also be a vector of plant viruses (criniviruses, e.g. tomato chlorosis virus).
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | — |
| Dogs | Mild | Contains geraniol and linalool, which irritate the digestive tract of animals. |
| Cats | Mild | — |
History and origin
Pelargoniums were brought to Europe from South Africa in the 17th and 18th centuries. Despite the common name 'geranium', they belong to a different genus than the true geraniums (cranesbills). They became a symbol of European balconies, especially in the Alps.
Uses
For window boxes, terrace pots, seasonal beds and container arrangements. Trailing (ivy-leaved) varieties suit hanging baskets and balustrades.
Trivia
- The common name 'geranium' is misleading – pelargoniums and cranesbills (Geranium) are separate genera within the same family.
- The oil of scented-leaved pelargonium is used in perfumery as a cheaper substitute for rose oil.
Frequently asked questions
How do you overwinter pelargoniums?
Before the first frosts, move the plants to a cool (5–10°C), bright room, cut them back by half and reduce watering to a minimum. In spring, gradually increase watering and harden the plants off before setting them outside.
Why is my pelargonium flowering poorly?
The most common causes are too little sun, failure to deadhead spent flowers and potassium deficiency. The pelargonium needs full sun and regular feeding with a flowering-plant fertiliser.
Why are my pelargonium's leaves turning yellow?
Usually this results from overwatering and poor drainage or, conversely, from drying out. The pelargonium prefers to dry out between waterings rather than stand in wet substrate.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — PelargoniumInstitution / botanical garden
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