In short
- Position: full sun, dry, permeable, poor soil.
- Very drought- and frost-resistant — practically maintenance-free.
- Flowers yellow in June and July, strongly attracting bees.
- Ideal for rock gardens, low walls, crevices and extensive green roofs.
- Does not tolerate overwatering — wet soil is the main cause of rot.
Botanical data
- Family
- Crassulaceae (Crassulaceae)
- Height
- 0.05–0.12 m
- Width
- 0.2–0.6 m
- Habit
- Creeping
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Sandy, Chalky
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7.8
- Moisture
- Dry
- Bloom
- June–July
- Hardiness
- USDA 3a–9b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, By division, By runners
Characteristics
The creeping shoots, rooting at the nodes, form a turf only a few centimetres high. The small, ovate leaves store water and turn reddish in strong sunshine and drought. The flowers are five-petalled, bright yellow, gathered into flat inflorescences.
Growing and care
Watering
An almost maintenance-free plant — water only during prolonged drought. Excess water and heavy, wet soil quickly cause rot.
Fertilizing
It grows best on poor, dry sites — fertilising is not needed.
Planting
A permeable substrate, preferably sandy or gravelly; on green roofs a thin layer of extensive substrate works well.
Pruning
The spent inflorescences can be cut off for aesthetic reasons; the turf regrows on its own.
Companion plants
Good companions
A classic duo for rock gardens and low walls — identical requirements: full sun, dry, permeable soil.
They complement each other in form: the low, creeping goldmoss stonecrop at the foot of the taller, clump-forming showy stonecrop.
Both form low, drought-loving carpets on sandy grasslands and attract pollinators.
Bad companions
They require fertile, constantly moist soil and shade the turf — for the stonecrop this means rot and dieback.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | The fresh leaves have a sharp, burning taste (hence the species name) and in larger amounts can irritate the digestive tract. |
| Dogs | Mild | — |
| Cats | Mild | — |
History and origin
Long planted on garden walls and turf-covered roofs; today it is one of the fundamental species of extensive green roofs, prized for its extreme resistance to drying out and for a thin layer of substrate.
Uses
For rock gardens, dry slopes, edgings, gaps between paving slabs, retaining walls and as a ground-cover plant for green roofs and containers in strongly sunlit places.
Trivia
- The Latin acre means sharp, burning — it alludes to the taste of the little leaves.
- It can survive weeks of drought, living on the water stored in its leaves.
Frequently asked questions
Is goldmoss stonecrop suitable for a green roof?
Yes, it is one of the model species of extensive green roofs. It tolerates a very thin layer of substrate, heat, wind and prolonged drought, and at the same time spreads on its own and seals gaps in the turf.
Why is my stonecrop turf rotting?
Almost always the cause is too moist, impermeable substrate or excessive watering. Goldmoss stonecrop needs a dry, sandy position and practically does not need extra water except during periods of extreme drought.
Is goldmoss stonecrop invasive?
It spreads quickly and roots easily from fragments of shoots, so in a small rock garden it is worth keeping it in check. It is not, however, regarded as an invasive species — in Poland it is a native element of dry grasslands.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Sedum acreDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- Royal Horticultural Society — Sedum acreInstitution / botanical garden
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