In short
- Reaches 1.5–2.5 m in height — one of the tallest border plants.
- Site: full sun, fertile and well-drained soil.
- Flowers from June to September, the flowers opening successively from the bottom of the stem upwards.
- Biennial — in the first year it forms a rosette of leaves, in the second it flowers.
- Susceptible to hollyhock rust — plant in an airy spot, away from other mallow-family plants.
- Readily visited by bees and bumblebees.
Botanical data
- Family
- Malvaceae (Malvaceae)
- Height
- 1.5–2.5 m
- Width
- 0.4–0.6 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- June–September
- Hardiness
- USDA 3b–9a
- Propagation
- From seed
Characteristics
It forms a single, stiff stem covered with large, heart-shaped, slightly rough leaves. Large, funnel-shaped flowers 6–10 cm across arise in the leaf axils along the whole length of the shoot, forming a characteristic, vertical inflorescence.
Growing and care
Watering
Regular watering in the first year after planting; mature plants tolerate short dry spells thanks to their deep root system.
Fertilizing
Moderate doses — over-fertilising with nitrogen weakens the stiffness of the stems and encourages lodging.
Planting
A fertile, well-drained site sheltered from strong wind because of the tall, stiff stems.
Pruning
Remove spent flower spikes to prolong flowering and limit excessive self-seeding.
Companion plants
Good companions
Similar height and habit — together they form a striking, sunny back row of the country-garden border.
Flowers at the same time and has similar site requirements, forming a classic cottage-garden duo.
Bad companions
The spreading, lush shoots of the cucurbits shade the base of the hollyhock and compete with it for water and nutrients.
Planted close together, they facilitate the spread of hollyhock rust (Puccinia malvacearum).
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | The flowers of the hollyhock are edible and traditionally added to salads and used to decorate dishes. |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
Cultivated in Europe since the Middle Ages, probably brought from Asia Minor and China along the trade routes. For centuries an inseparable element of rural cottage gardens, planted against house walls and along fences as a natural, ornamental screen.
Uses
A classic background plant for perennial borders and country gardens, planted singly or in groups against walls, fences and enclosures. It combines well with other tall perennials that flower in summer.
Trivia
- The genus name Alcea comes from Greek and refers to the medicinal use of mallow-family plants in antiquity.
- The edible flowers of the hollyhock are sometimes added to salads and used to decorate dishes.
Frequently asked questions
Why do hollyhock leaves become covered with orange spots?
These are symptoms of hollyhock rust (Puccinia malvacearum) — a common fungal disease. Affected leaves should be removed and hollyhocks planted in an airy spot, away from other mallow-family plants.
Will a hollyhock flower in the first year after sowing?
Usually not — the hollyhock is biennial and in the first season forms only a rosette of leaves. The flower spike appears only in the second year.
How can you get a hollyhock to flower in successive seasons?
The hollyhock is biennial by nature, but leaving some of the flower spikes to self-seed and not removing the young rosettes ensures continuous flowering in the same spot over successive years.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: Alcea roseaInstitution / botanical garden
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