In short
- Rhizomatous perennial reaching 0.9-2 m, with large, banana-like leaves.
- Flowers from July to October in red, orange and yellow.
- Not frost-hardy in the Polish climate - rhizomes are lifted in autumn and stored frost-free.
- Needs full sun, fertile, moist soil and generous watering in hot weather.
- Propagated by dividing the rhizomes in spring; the seeds have a hard, stony coat requiring scarification.
Botanical data
- Family
- Cannaceae (Cannaceae)
- Height
- 0.9–2 m
- Width
- 0.4–0.6 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 6–6.5
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist, Wet
- Bloom
- July–October
- Hardiness
- USDA 8a–10b
- Propagation
- By division, From seed
Characteristics
Indian shot is a vigorous perennial with a fleshy, branching rhizome and upright, unbranched stems usually reaching 0.9-2 m tall. Its exotic impression comes above all from the foliage: large, entire, elliptic leaves with a prominent midrib, resembling banana leaves. In the species they are green, while in many cultivars they can be brownish-red or purple. The leaves emerge from sheathing bases that clasp the stem and are arranged in two ranks. The inflorescence is a terminal raceme in which individual flowers open in succession. A canna flower is strongly asymmetric and botanically deceptive: the most showy, colourful, petal-like elements are in fact modified, sterile stamens (staminodes), and the only functional anther sits on the edge of one of them. The colours are intense - from scarlet red and orange to yellow. The plant grows fast and flowers for a long time, from July until the first autumn frosts, which end the growing season. After flowering it sets globose, warty capsules containing hard, black, spherical seeds - it is these, resembling shot, that give rise to the English name 'Indian shot'. The site must be sunny and sheltered from wind, which easily tears the large leaf blades; the soil fertile, humus-rich and sufficiently moist. Canna tolerates permanently wet soil, and plants from related groups are even grown at the edge of a garden pond.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Purpurea’
- A tall form of the species with brownish-purple leaves and orange-red flowers, growing to about 2 m. Valued for its decorative, dark foliage contrasting with the vivid flowers.
Growing and care
Watering
At the height of the season a plant with such a large leaf area uses a lot of water - in hot weather water abundantly, not allowing it to dry out. It tolerates constantly moist soil, and bog cultivars grow even at the water's edge. Winter watering is unnecessary - the rhizome is stored dormant, without growth.
Fertilizing
A greedy plant. A compost mulch at planting plus regular feeding during the season maintain continuous flowering; reduce nitrogen towards the end of summer so the shoots ripen before the rhizomes are stored.
Planting
A position sheltered from wind, soil fertile, humus-rich, well cultivated and enriched with compost. Lay the rhizome horizontally, eyes upward.
Pruning
Cut out spent inflorescences to encourage further flowering shoots to develop. After frost, once the leaves blacken, cut the foliage back to about 10-15 cm before digging up the rhizomes.
Companion plants
Good companions
Podobne wymagania (słońce, żyzna gleba, wykopywanie bulw/kłączy na zimę) i zbieżny, długi okres kwitnienia — tworzą spójną rabatę egzotyczną o tej samej pielęgnacji.
Kontrast delikatnych kłosów z dużymi, bananowatymi liśćmi paciorecznika; obie rośliny lubią słońce i budują strukturę rabaty w drugiej połowie lata.
Bad companions
Rozłożyste liście paciorecznika szybko zacieniają sąsiadów o niskim pokroju, które słabną z braku światła.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A characteristic mosaic appears on the leaves — irregular, interweaving light and dark green or yellow patches and streaks. The leaves are often deformed, wrinkled, curled and smaller, and whole plants become stunted and fruit poorly. The symptoms are most visible on young leaves, and the fruit of cucumber, courgette or tomato may be blotchy and misshapen. The disease affects many vegetables, perennials and ornamental plants. The disease picture depends on the specific virus, the host species and the temperature — the same pathogen produces different symptoms on different plants. A distinguishing feature is that the mosaic is systemic (it affects the whole plant and develops from the youngest leaves) rather than localised like fungal leaf spots — there are no clearly delimited spots with a margin, no mycelial coating and no fruiting bodies. Besides the mosaic, there is vein clearing (a lightening of the tissue along the veins), striping and blister-like bulges of the leaf blade. Severe narrowing and thread-like tomato leaves (the so-called 'shoestring' symptom) is associated mainly with CMV (cucumber mosaic virus), occasionally with tobamoviruses, whereas TMV/ToMV mostly produce mosaic and mottling of the leaves. On the fruit you can observe blotching, concentric rings, wart-like bulges (cucumber) and uneven ripening (tomato), and on the flowers of ornamental plants — colour breaking, i.e. streaks and flecks of discolouration on the petals. In high temperatures (above ~28–30°C) the symptoms may become masked and temporarily disappear, only to return once it cools down — this does not mean the plant has recovered.
Grey mouldA grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
History and origin
The genus Canna comprises about ten species native to tropical and subtropical America. Canna indica was described by Carl Linnaeus in 1753; the specific epithet 'indica' is a historical misnomer, as the plant does not come from India but from the New World - the name reflects the old, broad understanding of the word 'Indian' as referring to the West Indies. Canna reached Europe in the 16th century and for a long time was a collector's plant of botanical gardens. It owes its true garden career to 19th-century breeding: in France Theodore Annee, and later other breeders, developed numerous garden hybrids (referred to collectively as Canna x generalis or Canna x hybrida), combining the traits of several species - with larger flowers and a richer range of colours than the original species. It is precisely these hybrids, alongside the species, that today make up the pool of 'cannas' sold for borders. Beyond ornament, Canna indica has practical importance: its Andean cultivated form called achira (formerly distinguished as the separate species C. edulis) is a starch plant in the Andes with edible rhizomes, cultivated since pre-Columbian times.
Uses
Canna is a classic of exotic summer borders and a main accent in tropical-themed compositions. It is planted singly as a specimen giving a tall, expressive structure, or in groups of several plants in the central part of a border, spaced 40-60 cm apart. It combines well with plants of similar requirements and care - dahlias, ornamental grasses or warm-coloured annuals - and with the large leaves of other foliage plants, building a 'jungle' effect. It also works well in large pots and containers on the terrace, provided generous watering and feeding are ensured. The key to growing it in the Polish climate is the seasonal rhythm: the rhizomes are forced in pots from March-April in warmth, planted out into the ground only after the frosts have ended (second half of May), and in autumn, after the first frost blackens the leaves, they are lifted. The lifted rhizomes are shaken free of soil, the foliage is cut back, and they are stored in peat or sand in a cool (about 5-10 degrees C), dry and airy room, where they neither freeze nor dry out completely. In spring the large rhizomes are divided into fragments with at least one eye - this is the simplest and most reliable method of propagation, true to the cultivar. Propagation from seed is possible, but requires breaking the hard, stony coat by scarification and soaking, and the seedlings of hybrid cultivars do not faithfully reproduce the traits of the mother plant.
Trivia
- The hard, black, spherical canna seeds were sometimes used as natural shot and as beads for making rosaries and jewellery - hence the Polish name 'paciorecznik' (bead plant) and the English 'Indian shot'.
- The Andean cultivated form of the species, achira, provides edible starch from its rhizomes - it is one of the oldest starch plants cultivated in South America.
- Cannas are used in constructed wetlands and filtration zones - they tolerate a substrate permanently saturated with water well and take up nutrients from it.
- In many warm regions of the world Canna indica has naturalized and is sometimes regarded as an invasive species, even though in the Polish climate it cannot survive the winter in the ground on its own.
Frequently asked questions
Will Indian shot overwinter in the ground in Poland?
No. In the Polish climate the rhizomes freeze out, so in autumn, after the first frost, they are lifted and stored frost-free - in peat or sand, at a temperature of about 5-10 degrees C. They return to the ground only after the spring frosts have ended.
How do you store canna rhizomes over the winter?
Rhizomes lifted after frost should be shaken free of soil, the foliage shortened, surface-dried and placed in boxes with slightly moist peat or sand. Keep them in a cool (5-10 degrees C), airy and dark place, checking that they neither rot nor dry out completely.
When does Indian shot start to flower and how can flowering be prolonged?
Usually from July until the first autumn frosts. Flowering is extended by forcing the rhizomes earlier in warmth in spring, a sunny position, regular feeding and systematic removal of spent inflorescences.
Is Indian shot toxic to pets?
Cannas are regarded as non-toxic to humans, dogs and cats. Even so, animals should not be encouraged to eat any ornamental plants, because abundant consumption of plant parts may irritate the digestive tract.
Why are my canna's leaves torn and ragged?
The most common cause is wind - the large, thin leaf blades tear easily in an open, windy position. Ragged edges or holes may also point to slug feeding. It is worth planting Indian shot in a sheltered spot.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Canna indicaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Canna (growing guide)Institution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: Canna indicaInstitution / botanical garden
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