In short
- The most commonly bought indoor palm, recommended for beginners.
- Tolerates partial shade and shade, so it grows even away from a window.
- Grows very slowly, usually reaching 0.6-1.2 m indoors.
- Non-toxic, safe for cats, dogs and children.
- Sensitive to overwatering (root rot) and to spider mites in dry air.
Botanical data
- Family
- Arecaceae (Arecaceae)
- Height
- 0.6–1.5 m
- Width
- 0.3–0.6 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Position
- Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- March–May
- Hardiness
- USDA 10a–11b
- Propagation
- From seed
Characteristics
The parlour palm is a small palm with a single, upright, thin, cane-like stem topped by a rosette of pinnate leaves. The dense, clumping tufts in which the plant is usually sold in shops are not a feature of the species but the result of sowing many seedlings into one pot; a single specimen has one unbranching stem and produces no rhizomatous offshoots. Each leaf is made up of a dozen to a few dozen narrow, lance-shaped leaflets of a vivid, dark green colour. Grown indoors the plant usually reaches 0.6-1.2 m in height, exceptionally up to about 1.5 m, with a rosette 0.3-0.6 m wide; in the wild it can grow taller. It grows very slowly - producing only a few new leaves in a year - so once bought it keeps its compact habit for a long time. The species is evergreen and does not undergo a distinct dormant period, although in winter, with shorter days and lower temperatures, growth almost stops. The parlour palm is dioecious: male and female flowers develop on separate specimens. Mature plants send out branched inflorescences set on stiff, orange-flushed stalks - it is their coral colour that gives the plant its name "coral palm". The small, spherical male flowers are yellow; on female specimens, after pollination, small black fruits the size of a peppercorn are set. The optimal growing temperature is 18-24 C; the plant does not tolerate cold below about 10 C or frost.
Growing and care
Watering
Water moderately, allowing the top layer of the substrate to dry out between waterings. Excess water must not stand in the saucer - constant moisture causes root rot. In winter watering is reduced.
Fertilizing
Apply weak, diluted fertiliser - the plant is sensitive to salinity and overfertilising (shown by browning of the leaf tips).
Planting
Permeable, humus-rich potting mix for houseplants or palms; a pot with drainage holes. Clumps of seedlings growing in one pot are better not divided without need - the palm tolerates root damage poorly.
Pruning
Remove only whole dried or damaged leaves, cutting them off at the base of the stem.
Companion plants
Good companions
Grupowanie roślin o zbliżonych wymaganiach świetlnych i wilgotnościowych ułatwia utrzymanie wilgotnego mikroklimatu, co ogranicza ataki przędziorków.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Armoured and soft scale insectsImmobile, brown or yellowish shields (1-4 mm) attached to stems and the underside of leaves, especially along the veins. Easily mistaken for growths on the plant. They suck sap, causing yellowing and weakening, and excrete sticky honeydew. Common on figs, orchids and plants with tough leaves. The collective name covers two groups with different biology. Armoured scales (Diaspididae) have a hard waxy shield separate from the body, which can be prised off - beneath it emerges a tiny, legless and wingless female; they do not excrete honeydew. Soft scales (Coccidae) have a convex, cup-shaped cover fused with the body, and it is they that excrete it abundantly. Sticky honeydew - the domain of soft scales and other honeydew-producing scale insects, not of armoured scales - settles on the leaves and attracts sooty mould fungi (sooty mould, sooty blotch) as well as ants, which defend the colony against predators. The only mobile feeding stage is the crawler - a flat, tiny larva which, after hatching from beneath the mother's shield, disperses over the plant, then settles, inserts its stylet into the conducting tissues and loses the ability to move; adult females remain immobile for the rest of their lives. Males pupate and, as tiny, winged, short-lived insects, do not feed. In heated interiors the pest breeds all year round, producing several overlapping generations; outdoors usually 1-3 generations, and fertilised females or eggs hidden beneath the shield overwinter. Feeding symptoms are yellowing and premature leaf drop, dieback of shoots, stunting and weakening of the plant, and secondarily a black coating of sooty mould on leaves covered with honeydew. On fruit trees infested by San Jose scale (Comstockaspis perniciosa), reddish discolouration appears around the feeding sites, and heavily colonised branches die back. Because the shields are immobile and their colour blends into the bark and veins, an infestation is easily overlooked until honeydew appears or the plant is noticeably weakened - which is why regular inspection of the leaf undersides and shoot axils is key.
MealybugsInsects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | — |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
The parlour palm comes from the humid, shaded mountain forests of southern Mexico and Guatemala, where it grows in the understorey, in diffuse light beneath the canopy of trees - hence its exceptional tolerance of low light indoors. The species was scientifically described by the German botanist Carl Friedrich Philipp von Martius in 1830. In Victorian England the palm gained enormous popularity as the "parlour palm" - a drawing-room palm decorating the interiors of middle-class homes, valued for tolerating the poor light and dry air of heated rooms. To this day it remains one of the most widely grown indoor palms in the world. Beyond its role as a houseplant the species has economic importance: its durable, dark green leaves are harvested on a large scale in Central America as cut greenery for floristry (known as xate), and its seeds are the subject of mass nursery production.
Uses
The parlour palm is grown exclusively as a houseplant - with its heat requirements corresponding to zones 10-11 it will not overwinter outdoors in the Polish climate. It grows best in bright but diffuse light; it also tolerates partial shade and shade, which makes it suitable away from a window, deep in a room, in a hallway or in a bathroom with a window. Direct summer sun should be avoided - it scorches and yellows the delicate leaflets. It is planted in a permeable, humus-rich potting mix for houseplants or palms, in a pot with drainage holes. It is watered moderately: the top layer of the substrate should dry out between waterings, and excess water must not stand in the saucer - constant moisture leads to root rot, the most common cause of the plant's death. In winter watering is reduced. The parlour palm is sensitive to salts and fluoride compounds in tap water and to overfertilising - which shows as browning of the leaf tips; for the same reason it is fed weakly, with diluted fertiliser, only during the growing season (from spring to early autumn). In the dry air of heated homes the plant is attacked by spider mites, so it is worth raising humidity by misting or by standing the pot on a tray of moist expanded clay. It is repotted rarely, every 2-3 years, in spring, without dividing the clump of seedlings unnecessarily, because the palm tolerates root damage poorly. An important advantage of the species is its lack of toxicity - the parlour palm appears on lists of plants safe for cats, dogs and people, which makes it a good choice for homes with pets and small children.
Trivia
- The name "coral palm" comes from the orange-coral colour of the branched stalks on which the flowers are set.
- The parlour palm's dark green leaves are harvested in the forests of Central America as cut greenery (xate) - reaching bouquets and decorations all over the world.
- The species is dioecious: small black fruits are set only on female plants growing near a male specimen.
- Despite its thin, cane-like stem resembling bamboo, the parlour palm is a true palm of the family Arecaceae.
Frequently asked questions
Is the parlour palm safe for cats and dogs?
Yes. Chamaedorea elegans appears on lists of plants non-toxic to cats, dogs and people (including the ASPCA), which is why it is recommended for homes with pets and small children. Eating the leaves may at most irritate the stomach mechanically, but the plant contains no toxins.
Why do the parlour palm's leaf tips turn brown?
The most common causes are air that is too dry, salts and fluoride compounds in tap water, and overfertilising. It helps to increase humidity by misting, to water with stood or rainwater, and to feed with weak, diluted fertiliser only during the growing season. Persistent browning combined with wilting of the whole plant, however, points to root rot from overwatering.
How much light does the coral palm need?
The parlour palm is one of the most shade-tolerant palms - it grows best in bright, diffuse light, but tolerates partial shade and even shade, so it can stand away from a window. Direct summer sun, which scorches the leaflets, should be avoided.
How should the parlour palm be watered so it does not rot?
Water moderately, when the top layer of the substrate has dried out, and always pour off water that collects in the saucer. Constant moisture at the roots is the most common cause of this palm's death. In winter, when growth stops, watering is even less frequent.
Will the parlour palm flower indoors?
Mature specimens flower in indoor cultivation too, sending out branched inflorescences with small, yellow flowers on coral-coloured stalks. The species is dioecious, so black fruits will set only on a female plant growing near a male specimen.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Chamaedorea elegansDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Chamaedorea elegansInstitution / botanical garden
- ASPCA — Parlor Palm (rośliny nietrujące dla zwierząt)Institution / botanical garden
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