Scarlet sage

Salvia splendens · Scarlet sage (EN) · Feuersalbei (DE)

The scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) is a warmth-loving bedding plant grown in Poland as an annual, prized for its intensely red, dense flower spikes that bloom from June until the first frosts.

Full sun/Partial shade High watering
Watering calculator

In short

  • Sunny or lightly shaded position, fertile and well-drained soil.
  • Grown from transplants set out after the May frosts.
  • Blooms long and abundantly, from June to October.
  • Needs regular watering — tolerates neither drying out nor waterlogging.
  • Not frost-hardy; in the Polish climate it dies after the first cold spells.
  • Its nectar is readily visited by bumblebees and butterflies.

Botanical data

Family
Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae)
Height
0.2–0.4 m
Width
0.2–0.35 m
Habit
Clump-forming
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Loamy
pH reaction
pH 6–7
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
June–October
Hardiness
Propagation
From seed, From cuttings

Characteristics

It forms compact, branched clumps 20–40 cm tall. The ovate, scalloped leaves are bright green. The ornamental feature is the stiff, upright inflorescences of numerous tubular flowers set in colourful calyces — most often scarlet, though there are also purple, salmon or white cultivars.

Growing and care

Watering

Likes evenly moist substrate. It tolerates both drying out (leaves and flowers drop) and waterlogging poorly. In heat, water regularly, preferably in the morning.

In summer every ~3 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Regular, moderate doses support abundant flowering all summer long.

every 2 weeks during the season · nawóz do roślin kwitnących, kompost

Planting

A warm, wind-sheltered position; fertile substrate enriched with compost, but well-drained.

Timing: late May, after the frosts have passed · spacing 20–30 cm

Pruning

Remove faded spikes just above the topmost pair of leaves, which encourages the plant to produce further inflorescences.

Timing: During flowering, on an ongoing basis. · Caution: Do not prune in autumn for winter — in the Polish climate the plant dies after the first frosts anyway.

Companion plants

Good companions

Mexican marigoldPractical observation

The contrast of the sage's fiery red with the yellow-orange marigolds; both like sun and fertile, moist soil — a classic annual-border combination.

Garden petuniaPractical observation

Shared boxes and balcony borders; similar light and water needs give a compact, long-flowering composition.

Silver ragwort (Senecio cineraria)Practical observation

The silvery, cut leaves of the ragwort soften the intense red of the spikes and create a cool background for the flowers.

Bad companions

Moss rosePractical observation

Moss rose requires dry, poor and well-drained soil and sparing watering, whereas scarlet sage needs fertile, evenly moist substrate — the two cannot be satisfied in one border.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Thrips

Very small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

The species was brought to Europe from Brazil in the early 19th century. Thanks to its intense colour and long flowering, it quickly became one of the most popular plants for municipal flower beds and carpet bedding.

Uses

Ideal for annual borders, carpet bedding, edgings, balcony boxes and containers. It looks best in larger groups, where it forms dense, vivid patches of colour.

Trivia

  • In its native climate it is a perennial, but frost means that in Poland we treat it as an annual.
  • In South America its long-tubed flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds, while in our gardens bumblebees take their place.

Frequently asked questions

Does scarlet sage overwinter in the ground?

No. It comes from warm Brazil and dies as early as the first frosts, which is why in Poland it is grown as an annual, each year from new transplants.

Why is my sage dropping flowers and wilting?

The most common cause is the substrate drying out on hot days. The plant likes even moisture — in a hot summer, water it regularly, but without flooding the roots.

How can I prolong the flowering of scarlet sage?

Systematically remove faded spikes and feed with a fertiliser for flowering plants every two weeks. The plant will reward you by producing further inflorescences until autumn.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/19/2026.

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