In short
- The vast majority of cultivars are self-incompatible — a single tree in the garden usually will not set fruit.
- Vigorous: up to 20 m in the wild, 4–8 m in an orchard, only 2.5–3.5 m on a dwarfing rootstock (Gisela 5).
- Flowers in April, the fruits ripen from June to July depending on the cultivar.
- Needs full sun and a deep, warm, well-drained soil; does not tolerate standing water.
- Prune only after harvest (July–August) — winter pruning risks gummosis and bacterial canker.
- Uneven moisture just before harvest causes the fruits to split.
Botanical data
- Family
- Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
- Height
- 3–20 m
- Width
- 3–10 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich, Sandy
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- April–May
- Hardiness
- USDA 4a–8b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, From seed
Characteristics
A tree with a strong, straight leader and branches emerging in characteristic whorls, which gives a regular, tiered silhouette. The bark is red-brown, smooth and glossy, with distinct horizontal lenticels, peeling in horizontal bands with age — a diagnostic feature of the species. The leaves are elliptic, serrated, drooping, with two red nectar glands at the base of the blade. The flowers are white, five-petalled, in umbels, and open together with the leaves. The fruits are drupes with sweet, juicy flesh — from yellow through red to almost black, depending on the cultivar. The size of the tree in cultivation depends above all on the rootstock: on a sweet cherry seedling the tree grows very vigorously, while on dwarfing rootstocks of the Gisela type it stays low and comes into bearing earlier.
Growing and care
Watering
Even moisture during fruit ripening is crucial — a sudden influx of water after drought (a downpour, heavy watering) causes mass splitting of the cherries just before harvest. Mature trees withstand short droughts, but do not tolerate standing water around the roots.
Fertilizing
Moderately. Excess nitrogen prolongs shoot growth into late summer, lowers their winter hardiness and favours gummosis and bacterial canker, to which the sweet cherry is exceptionally susceptible.
Planting
A deep, warm and well-drained soil — the sweet cherry does not tolerate compacted, waterlogged sites. MOST IMPORTANT: the vast majority of cultivars are self-incompatible, so a second, compatible cultivar flowering at the same time must be provided for at the planning stage of the planting.
Pruning calendar
Pruning group: Fruiting and ornamental stone fruit (Prunus) — summer pruning
What and how to cut
Prune on a warm, dry day from late spring through summer (after flowering or after harvest); remove dead, diseased and crowded shoots, and keep the crown open.
Only in summer, right after harvest (July–August).
What not to do
Don't prune in autumn or winter — that's the main route of infection for silver leaf and bacterial canker.
Companion plants
Good companions
A necessary condition for fruiting — the sweet cherry is self-incompatible in most cultivars and needs another cultivar flowering at the same time nearby (up to about 50 m).
Similar soil requirements and flowering time make running an orchard together easier, but note: the sour cherry is not a pollinator for the sweet cherry — a second sweet cherry cultivar is needed for pollination.
Planted in the tree circle, its strong scent traditionally deters aphids, which readily colonise the shoot tips of the sweet cherry.
Bad companions
Species of the genus Prunus are particularly sensitive to juglone — an allelopathic compound released by the roots of black walnut, inhibiting their growth and leading to dieback.
Turf competes very effectively with a young sweet cherry for water and nitrogen in the upper soil layer, markedly slowing its growth in the first years after planting.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
On pome and stone fruit, brown, enlarging rot spots appear, on which concentrically arranged, grey-beige cushions of spores form. Infected fruit rot, dry out and mummify, often remaining on the tree until the next season. In spring the fungus also infects blossoms and short shoots, causing them to die back and killing the branch tips. The disease has two distinct phases. Spring blossom and twig blight (most often Monilinia laxa on stone fruit — sour cherry, sweet cherry, plum, apricot) begins on the blossoms, which turn brown, wilt and dry out without dropping; the infection enters through the stigma and style into the short shoot, girdles it and causes whole shoots to die back, with withered leaves hanging as if scorched — hence the misleading resemblance to frost damage. On stone fruit, infected shoots often exude gum (gummosis) and develop small, cracked bark cankers. The summer-to-autumn brown rot of the fruit (mainly Monilinia fructigena on apple and pear) develops on ripening fruit: the rot spot quickly engulfs the whole fruit, the flesh turns brown and softens, and characteristic, concentrically arranged rings of cream-beige cushions of conidial spores grow out on the surface. In cool conditions (including in storage), the fruit may take the form of hard, black glossy mummies lacking sporulation (so-called black rot). Mummified fruit hanging on the tree and Monilinia cankers on the shoots are the main source of spores in the following season.
Bacterial canker of stone fruitSunken, necrotic wounds (cankers) form on the trunk and branches, from which – especially in spring – amber gum oozes (gummosis). The bark over the wounds dies and cracks, and infected buds and short shoots fail to break or die in spring, so whole sections of the crown dry out. Small, brown, watery spots may appear on the leaves and fall out of the blade ('shot-hole'). The disease affects stone-fruit trees – sour cherry, sweet cherry, plum, peach and apricot – and when it girdles a branch it kills it. The cause is two bacterial pathovars — Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae and pv. morsprunorum — with similar symptoms that cannot be told apart with the naked eye. A characteristic early symptom is the dying of buds and flowers in spring (so-called blossom blast): buds turn brown and fail to open, and individual branches suddenly wilt and dry out, holding their browned leaves for a long time. The gum oozing from the cankers is glassy to amber and appears most abundantly in spring and early summer, after the sap starts to flow; in high summer the ooze usually stops. When the bark is cut at the edge of a canker, the tissue beneath is often watery, rusty-brown, with a sour, fermenting smell (typical of pv. syringae). The leaf spots are at first small, angular, watery and surrounded by a lighter halo; their dead centres crumble away, producing a 'shot-hole' effect. The symptoms are easily confused with frost damage to the bark and with fungal shoot dieback (brown rot) and fungal shot-hole of the leaves (Wilsonomyces carpophilus) — the key then is the season of peak activity and the presence of fungal sporulation. The disease intensifies in cool, wet weather in spring and autumn; in summer, in warmth and drought, the bacterium is least active.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
European cherry fruit flyA small fly about 4 mm long with a black body, a yellow scutellum on the back and transparent wings marked with characteristic dark bands. The females lay their eggs singly in ripening, colour-changing fruit of sweet and sour cherry. The white, legless maggots feed in the flesh around the stone and cause the fruit to rot — the typical "maggoty" cherries that soften and drop prematurely. Late varieties, which ripen at the peak of the flies' flight, are the most at risk. The cherry fruit fly has one generation per year and overwinters as a puparium (pupa) in the soil, a few centimetres deep beneath the tree canopy; some pupae undergo a prolonged diapause and emerge only after two winters, which makes it difficult to eliminate the pest completely. The adult flies usually emerge from the turn of May and June, and their appearance is linked to the warming of the soil and the colour-change phase of the fruit. After emerging, the females mature sexually over several to a dozen or so days (supplementary feeding), and then lay their eggs beneath the skin of fruit changing colour from green to yellow and red. The hatched larva feeds in the flesh around the stone for about 3–4 weeks, then chews an exit hole, leaves the fruit and drops to the soil, where it pupates. The first symptoms are hard to spot: the flesh around the stone turns brown and rots, soft, darkening, slightly sunken spots appear on the fruit, and when it is cut open a white maggot and decomposed flesh are visible. Yellow sticky traps are used to determine the start and intensity of the flight.
Winter mothA moth with marked sexual dimorphism: the male has grey-brown, finely banded wings with a span of about 25 mm, whereas the female is practically wingless and flightless and therefore climbs up the trunk in autumn to lay its eggs in the crown. In spring green looper caterpillars with pale lengthwise stripes hatch, moving with the characteristic "looping" gait (arching the rear of the body) and eating the developing buds, young leaves and fruitlets, often webbing them together with threads. It feeds on apple, pear, plum, cherry and many deciduous trees and shrubs. The mature caterpillar reaches about 25 mm in length and is yellow-green with a darker dorsal line and pale stripes along its sides; as a typical looper (Geometridae) it has only two pairs of prolegs at the end of the abdomen, hence its looping gait. The eggs are laid singly near the buds and in bark crevices, where they overwinter, and just before the spring hatch they change colour from greenish to orange-red. The species has one generation a year: the moths fly in late autumn (October-December, which is the origin of the Polish name "przedzimek", meaning before-winter), on cool, frost-free evenings, and the flightless females then climb the trunks. The spring hatch of the caterpillars is closely synchronised with bud burst (usually April); after about 4-6 weeks of feeding the caterpillars lower themselves to the ground on threads and pupate shallowly in the soil, where the pupa spends the summer. The signs of feeding are holed and ragged young leaves, eaten flower and leaf buds, and deformed fruit covered with corky scars that develop from the damaged fruitlets; under heavy pressure the caterpillars can almost strip the crown bare.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | The fruits are edible and safe. The stones, leaves and bark contain cyanogenic glycosides (amygdalin) — chewed stones can be harmful in large quantities, but swallowing a few whole poses no threat. |
| Dogs | Mild | The risk concerns chewed stones and leaves eaten in larger quantities; the flesh of the fruit is safe. |
| Cats | Mild | As with dogs — the hazard is chewed stones and leaves, not the flesh itself. |
| Horses | Moderate | Wilting leaves of plants in the genus Prunus release particularly large amounts of hydrogen cyanide — prunings should not be thrown onto pasture. |
History and origin
The cherry is one of Europe's oldest cultivated fruit trees — its stones have been found at archaeological sites from the Bronze Age. According to the Roman tradition handed down by Pliny the Elder, the general Lucullus brought fine sweet cherries to Rome in the 1st century BC from the city of Kerasos (present-day Giresun) in Pontus — from this name derives the Greek-Latin term for the cherry, and indirectly also the names in many European languages. The wild-growing sweet cherry was gathered and used in Europe long before cultivated varieties appeared.
Uses
For home and commercial orchards — in small gardens exclusively on dwarfing and size-controlling rootstocks, which keep the tree within reach and make harvesting easier. A valuable park and forest tree (a fine hardwood admixture) of high value to birds and pollinating insects. The fruits are eaten mainly raw, and also made into compotes, preserves and liqueurs.
Trivia
- The species name avium literally means “of the birds” — birds eat the fruits and spread the stones, thanks to which the cherry sows itself through woods and thickets.
- Cherry wood, with its warm, reddish colour, is among the most valuable domestic furniture timbers — which is why the species is planted in forests as a so-called fine hardwood admixture.
- The first truly self-fertile sweet cherry cultivar was the Canadian “Stella”, introduced in the late 1960s; only thanks to it and its descendants does a single tree in a small garden stand a chance of fruiting.
Frequently asked questions
Will a single sweet cherry in the garden set fruit?
Usually not. The vast majority of sweet cherry cultivars are self-incompatible (self-sterile) — their own pollen does not fertilise the flowers, so the tree flowers abundantly but sets no fruit. A second, compatible cultivar flowering at the same time is needed nearby, preferably within 50 m. The exception are the few self-fertile cultivars (e.g. “Stella”, “Lapins”, “Sunburst”), which fruit on their own — and only those are worth planting if there is no other sweet cherry in the garden or the neighbourhood. It is worth remembering that the sour cherry does not pollinate the sweet cherry.
Why do sweet cherries split just before harvest?
This is a reaction to an abrupt change in water supply: after a dry spell, heavy rain or watering causes a rapid influx of water into the ripening fruits, whose skin cannot stretch quickly enough — and it splits. Water also penetrates directly through the skin of wetted fruits. Even soil moisture helps (mulching, regular watering instead of flooding after drought), as does choosing less susceptible cultivars and — in commercial growing — rain covers.
When should you prune a sweet cherry?
Only in summer, right after harvest — preferably in July or August. The wounds heal quickly then, in full growth, and the tree defends itself effectively against infection. Autumn, winter and early spring pruning, standard for apple trees, is a mistake with sweet cherry: it favours gummosis (resin bleeding) and bacterial canker, which can kill whole branches.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Prunus aviumInstitution / botanical garden
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