Broad bean

Vicia faba · Broad bean (EN) · Ackerbohne (DE)

The broad bean (Vicia faba) is an annual legume grown for its large, fleshy seeds, one of the oldest crop plants of the Old World, valued also for its ability to fix nitrogen.

Full sun/Partial shade Medium watering USDA 5a–9b
Watering calculator

In short

  • Very early — it is sown as early as March and tolerates cold and frost.
  • Fixes nitrogen thanks to its root nodules, enriching the soil.
  • Heavily attacked by the black bean aphid — pinching out the tips helps.
  • The fragrant flowers are readily visited by bumblebees and bees.
  • Do not plant next to onions and garlic, which inhibit legumes.

Botanical data

Family
Fabaceae (Fabaceae)
Height
0.6–1.2 m
Width
0.2–0.4 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Loamy, Humus-rich, Clay
pH reaction
pH 6–7.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
May–June
Hardiness
USDA 5a–9b
Propagation
From seed

Characteristics

A plant with a stiff, angular, erect stem and blue-green, pinnate leaves. The flowers are white with a characteristic black spot on the wings, strongly and sweetly scented. The fruit is a thick, fleshy pod with several large, flat seeds.

Growing and care

Watering

Most sensitive to water shortage during flowering and pod set — it is then worth watering more generously so that it sets seeds well.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

As a legume it fixes nitrogen from the air thanks to its root nodules — it needs no nitrogen fertilising, an excess of which is harmful.

before sowing, moderately · kompost

Planting

Tolerates heavier and moister soils than most vegetables. Early sowing helps the plants to grow before the black bean aphid multiplies.

Timing: very early sowing, as early as March, as soon as the field can be entered; in a mild climate also in autumn · spacing 20–25 cm

Pruning

Pinch out the shoot tips — this reduces the feeding of the black bean aphid, which gathers on the youngest parts, and speeds up the ripening of the pods.

Timing: During flowering, after the lower pods have set. · Caution: Do not pinch out too early, before the pods have set.

Companion plants

Good companions

Summer savoryGardening tradition

A traditional companion of broad beans and beans — its scent deters the black bean aphid, and in the kitchen savory enhances the flavour of the legumes.

PotatoPractical observation

The broad bean enriches the soil with nitrogen to the benefit of the hungry potato; both plants tolerate the neighbourhood well.

LettucePractical observation

The low lettuce makes use of the space and light shade between the broad bean plants, providing an additional, early crop.

Bad companions

OnionPractical observation

Onion plants release substances that inhibit the development of legumes and their nodule bacteria, which weakens the growth of the broad bean.

GarlicPractical observation

Like the onion, garlic has a bad effect on legumes, limiting their growth and nitrogen fixation.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Rust

Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild Edible after cooking; in people with a congenital deficiency of glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G6PD) it can cause favism — an acute haemolytic anaemia.
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

Cultivated since the Neolithic in the Near East and the Mediterranean basin, for thousands of years it was one of Europe's main sources of plant protein — until the introduction of the bean from America. It remains popular to this day as an early legume vegetable.

Uses

Young, immature seeds are eaten cooked; mature ones are dried. In the garden it is also valued as a preceding crop and green manure that enriches the soil with nitrogen before growing demanding vegetables.

Trivia

  • Pythagoras is said to have forbidden his pupils to eat broad beans — this is probably connected with favism, dangerous in people with a G6PD enzyme deficiency.
  • Thanks to nitrogen fixation, the broad bean is also grown as a green manure that improves soil fertility.

Frequently asked questions

Why is it worth pinching out the tips of broad beans?

The black bean aphid gathers on the youngest, uppermost parts of the plants. Pinching out the shoot tips after the lower pods have set reduces its feeding and speeds up ripening.

When should broad beans be sown?

Very early — as early as March, as soon as the soil has dried enough to step onto the bed. The broad bean tolerates cold and light frosts, and early sowing helps to escape the aphid.

Does the broad bean improve soil fertility?

Yes. As a legume it lives in symbiosis with nodule bacteria that fix nitrogen from the air, so it enriches the soil and is grown as a green manure or preceding crop.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/19/2026.

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