Calibrachoa

Calibrachoa × hybrida · Calibrachoa (EN) · Zauberglöckchen (DE)

Calibrachoa (Calibrachoa × hybrida) is a profusely and long-flowering balcony plant with small, funnel-shaped blooms resembling miniature petunias, sold commercially under the name Million Bells. Unlike petunia it is self-cleaning — it does not need deadheading — and distinctly acid-loving, which is why it readily develops iron chlorosis on hard, limy water.

Full sun High watering USDA 9a–11a
Watering calculator

In short

  • Full-sun position; flowers from May until the first autumn frosts.
  • Self-cleaning — spent flowers drop on their own, so no deadheading is needed.
  • Acid-loving: substrate with a pH of about 5.5–6.5; on hard, limy water the leaves turn yellow (iron chlorosis).
  • Grown as an annual — it does not overwinter in the ground in the Polish climate.
  • Propagated mainly from cuttings; most cultivars are commercial series (Million Bells, Superbells, Cabaret).

Botanical data

Family
Solanaceae (Solanaceae)
Height
0.15–0.3 m
Width
0.3–0.6 m
Habit
Cascading
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun
Soil
Humus-rich, Sandy
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
May–October
Hardiness
USDA 9a–11a
Propagation
From cuttings, From seed

Characteristics

Calibrachoa forms dense, heavily branched and trailing shoots covered with small, sticky and hairy leaves — much like its relative the petunia. The flowers, however, are noticeably smaller: they are usually 2.5–3 cm across, roughly half the size of a petunia bloom, but they appear in great numbers and cover the whole plant almost without a break throughout the season. The colours are rich — from white, yellow and orange through pink and red to violet, often with a dark throat or contrasting veining; there are also bicoloured cultivars and ones with a star pattern. The plant reaches 15–30 cm in height, but the shoots trail 30–60 cm, which is why it looks best in hanging baskets, window boxes and tall containers. Two features set it apart from petunia in cultivation. First, it is self-cleaning: spent flowers dry up and drop on their own, so the tedious deadheading that petunia requires to keep flowering is unnecessary. Second, calibrachoa is acid-loving — it grows best in a substrate with a slightly acidic reaction (pH about 5.5–6.5). Watered with hard, limy water or grown in an alkaline substrate, it quickly develops iron chlorosis: the young leaves turn yellow between the green veins, and the plant weakens and flowers less well. The remedy is soft water or rainwater and a fertiliser with iron chelate. Calibrachoa is at the same time very hungry and sensitive to drying out — in shallow containers during hot weather it sometimes needs daily watering, but it copes just as badly with waterlogging, which leads to root rot. In the Polish climate it is grown as an annual; it is frost-sensitive and dies after the first autumn frosts.

Popular cultivars

‘Million Bells’
The first and best-known commercial series (Suntory), from which the plant's colloquial name derives. Sterile cultivars, propagated exclusively from cuttings, in a wide range of colours.
‘Superbells’
A popular series (Proven Winners) with a lush, well-branching habit and a very rich colour palette, including bicoloured cultivars and ones with a star pattern.
‘Cabaret’
A series with a compact, mounded habit, somewhat less trailing than others — good for window boxes and mixed containers, where it fills the space evenly.
‘Kabloom’
One of the first series propagated from seed rather than from cuttings, which lowered the cost of the seedlings; the habit is somewhat looser than in the vegetative cultivars.

Growing and care

Watering

In window boxes and hanging baskets it dries out very quickly — in hot weather even daily. However, it does not tolerate standing water, which leads to root rot. It prefers soft water or rainwater; on hard, limy water it easily develops chlorosis.

In summer every ~2 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

The plant is greedy and acid-loving — when iron is deficient or the substrate is too alkaline, the young leaves turn yellow between the veins. A fertiliser with iron chelate and a slightly acidifying substrate help.

every 7–10 days during the growing season · nawóz wieloskładnikowy do roślin kwitnących, nawóz zakwaszający / z żelazem

Planting

Fertile, free-draining potting soil with a slightly acidic reaction (e.g. substrate for pelargoniums or acid-loving plants), with a layer of drainage at the bottom of the container.

Timing: end of May, after the frosts have passed · spacing 20–30 cm

Pruning

It does not require removing spent flowers — it is self-cleaning. It is enough to cut back by half the stretched shoots that have become bare at the base, to stimulate branching and a new wave of flowers.

Timing: As needed in summer, when the shoots stretch out excessively. · Caution: There is no need for the tedious deadheading required by petunia — spent flowers drop on their own.

Companion plants

Good companions

Garden petuniaPractical observation

Bliski krewny o identycznych wymaganiach stanowiska i podlewania; obie łączy się w skrzynkach, a drobniejsze kwiaty kalibrachoa dobrze wypełniają kompozycję między większymi kwiatami petunii.

GeraniumPractical observation

Klasyczne zestawienie na słonecznym balkonie — pelargonia znosi krótkie przesuszenie, więc obie rośliny dobrze współgrają w tym samym pojemniku.

Bad companions

Shade-tolerant plants (e.g. impatiens, tuberous begonias)Practical observation

Zupełnie odmienne wymagania świetlne — w tej samej skrzynce jedna z roślin zawsze będzie w gorszych warunkach.

Plants requiring limy (alkaline) soilPractical observation

Kalibrachoa jest kwasolubna i na zasadowym podłożu dostaje chlorozy — nie da się w jednym pojemniku pogodzić jej wymagań z roślinami lubiącymi wapno.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Iron chlorosis (lime-induced chlorosis)

The symptom affects acid-loving plants — hydrangea, rose, rhododendron, blueberry and others — grown on alkaline or calcareous soils. The leaf blade turns yellow while the veins remain distinctly green, producing the characteristic interveinal chlorosis. The symptoms appear first on the youngest leaves at the shoot tips, because iron is not very mobile within the plant and is not translocated into new growth. In extreme cases the leaves are almost white and their margins dry out. Crucially, the cause is usually not a lack of iron in the soil but too high a pH, which blocks its uptake by the roots. It is worth noting that not all susceptible plants are equally acid-loving — the rose prefers a slightly acidic to neutral reaction (about pH 6–7) and also develops iron chlorosis on strongly alkaline, calcareous soils, although it is not acid-loving in the way rhododendron or blueberry is. The pattern of yellowing is very regular: not only the main vein stays green but the whole fine network of veins, so that the leaf looks like green lace on a yellow-green background — this is the most reliable diagnostic feature, distinguishing interveinal chlorosis from the uniform, whole-surface yellowing typical of nitrogen deficiency. The symptoms intensify with each successive flush: older leaves at the base of the shoot may still be green or only slightly paled, and the younger the leaf, the paler it is, up to almost white, lemon-yellow tips. Under a long-lasting deficiency the margins and tips of the youngest leaves turn brown and necrotic, shoots grow more weakly and become smaller, and in blueberry the yield and fruit quality decline. Iron chlorosis is not contagious — it does not spread from plant to plant but appears simultaneously in all specimens growing on the same, overly alkaline site, which also helps to distinguish it from infectious diseases. Its severity can vary through the season: cold, wet and compacted soil, poor root aeration, excess calcium, a high bicarbonate content in the watering water, and over-fertilization with phosphorus additionally hinder iron uptake and aggravate the symptoms even when the element is not lacking in the soil.

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Thrips

Very small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

The genus Calibrachoa comprises several dozen species growing wild in South America, mainly in Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay. For a long time these plants were classed in the genus Petunia; only in 1990 were they separated as a distinct genus, based among other things on a different chromosome number (in calibrachoa the base number is n=9, in petunia n=7) and on molecular data. The genus name commemorates Antonio de la Cal, a Mexican botanist and pharmacist of the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. Calibrachoa owes its balcony career to the Japanese company Suntory, which in the early 1990s launched the first series of hybrids under the commercial name Million Bells. These cultivars were sterile and propagated exclusively vegetatively, from cuttings, which for years kept the price of the seedlings high. The breakthrough came only with the introduction in the second decade of the 21st century of the first seed-propagated series (including Kabloom), which lowered the cost of cultivation. Today calibrachoa is among the most popular balcony plants in Poland and Europe, most often sold under the names of commercial series rather than individual botanical cultivars.

Uses

Calibrachoa is an almost exclusively container plant — its strongest asset is its trailing shoots, which is why it does best in hanging baskets, balcony window boxes and tall containers on a terrace, from where it can cascade freely. It is planted after the frosts have passed, usually towards the end of May, at a spacing of 20–30 cm, in a fertile and free-draining substrate with a slightly acidic reaction (soil for pelargoniums or for acid-loving plants works well). In balcony compositions it is combined with petunia, pelargonium, lobelia or bacopa — all of which like full sun and regular watering. The small flowers of calibrachoa serve as a filler between the larger flowers of its neighbours. Its self-cleaning makes it more rewarding to care for than petunia: there is no need to pick off spent flowers daily to maintain abundant flowering. Two things are the condition of success — uninterrupted but moderate watering (without drying out and without waterlogging) and systematic, slightly acidifying fertilising. Where tap water is very hard, it is worth watering with rainwater, otherwise the plants quickly lose their leaf colour. If in the second half of summer the shoots stretch out and become bare at the base, cutting them back by half stimulates a new wave of flowers.

Trivia

  • The commercial name Million Bells aptly captures the habit of a plant studded with hundreds of small, bell-shaped flowers — for many people the name of the series has supplanted the genus name.
  • Calibrachoa is so closely related to petunia that the two plants can be crossed; the intergeneric hybrids (Petchoa) combine the self-cleaning of calibrachoa with the larger flower and hardiness of petunia.
  • Yellowing of the leaves between the veins, a common ailment of calibrachoa, is usually not a disease but iron chlorosis caused by water that is too hard or a substrate that is too alkaline.

Frequently asked questions

How does calibrachoa differ from petunia?

Calibrachoa has noticeably smaller flowers (about 2.5–3 cm) and is self-cleaning — you do not need to remove spent flowers for it to keep flowering abundantly. It is also more acid-loving than petunia and reacts more quickly to hard water with chlorosis. Botanically they are closely related but separate genera.

Why are my calibrachoa's leaves turning yellow?

The most common cause is iron chlorosis: the young leaves turn yellow between the green veins when watered with hard, limy water or in a substrate that is too alkaline. Soft water or rainwater, a slightly acidic substrate and a fertiliser with iron chelate all help. General yellowing and wilting may also mean overwatering and root rot.

Do you need to remove spent calibrachoa flowers?

No — calibrachoa is self-cleaning; spent flowers dry up and drop on their own, and the plant keeps flowering without deadheading. This is a big advantage over petunia. It is only worth cutting back the excessively stretched, bare shoots in summer if needed.

Will calibrachoa survive winter in Poland?

Not in the ground — it is a frost-sensitive plant, grown in the Polish climate as an annual. It dies after the first autumn frosts, and new seedlings are planted each year.

How often should you water calibrachoa in a hanging basket?

On hot days even daily, because shallow containers and a lush plant dry out quickly. The substrate should be kept constantly slightly moist but not wet — waterlogging leads to root rot. It is best to check the moisture with a finger and, if possible, use soft water.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/25/2026.

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