Evergreen candytuft

Iberis sempervirens · Evergreen candytuft (EN) · Immergrüne Schleifenblume (DE)

Evergreen candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) is a low perennial with a woody base that forms a dense, trailing cushion covered in April and May with white flat-topped clusters. It belongs to the cabbage family and in the wild grows on limestone rocks of southern Europe — hence its garden requirements: full sun, excellent drainage and tolerance of an alkaline reaction. It reaches 15–30 cm in height and 30–60 cm in width and stays ornamental in winter too, because the leaves remain on the shoots. It is one of the essential plants for rock gardens, retaining walls and bed edges.

Full sun/Partial shade Low watering USDA 3a–8b
Watering calculator

In short

  • An evergreen cushion 15–30 cm tall and 30–60 cm wide — ornamental even outside the flowering season.
  • Flowers white in April and May; the flower clusters can completely hide the leaves.
  • Requires full sun and a permeable, rather poor soil with a neutral to alkaline reaction (pH 6.0–7.5).
  • It tolerates frost well — American sources give zones 3a–8b, the British RHS a more cautious category H5 (down to about -15°C). More dangerous than frost is standing water: in winter it is water that kills the plants.
  • It needs an annual trim by about one third right after flowering; without this treatment the cushion turns woody and falls apart from the centre.

Botanical data

Family
Brassicaceae (Brassicaceae)
Height
0.15–0.3 m
Width
0.3–0.6 m
Habit
Creeping
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Sandy, Chalky
pH reaction
pH 6–7.5
Moisture
Dry, Moderate
Bloom
April–May
Hardiness
USDA 3a–8b
Propagation
From cuttings, From seed

Characteristics

Formally it is a subshrub: the base of the shoots becomes woody, while the upper, herbaceous part spreads out and lifts at the tips, forming a dense, dome-shaped cushion 15–30 cm high and 30–60 cm wide. The prostrate shoots root where they touch the ground, so the clump slowly increases its circumference — but it is not stoloniferous and does not stray beyond its allotted spot. The leaves are evergreen, narrowly lanceolate to spatulate, 2–4 cm long, entire, dark green, slightly fleshy and glossy, densely set along the shoot; it is they that provide the plant's decorative value for the remaining eleven months of the year. The flowers have the structure typical of the cabbage family: four petals arranged in a cross — the feature from which the old family name (Cruciferae) derives. They are gathered in dense, almost flat clusters 3–5 cm across, which in April and May can hide the leaves entirely, giving the impression of a solid white carpet. A distinguishing feature of the genus Iberis is the unequal petals in the marginal flowers of the cluster: the two outer ones are markedly longer than the rest, so that the whole cluster optically resembles a single large flower. After flowering the cluster elongates into a raceme, and the fruit is a flattened, apically notched silicle. The plant needs full sun — in partial shade it grows but flowers sparsely — and a permeable, rather poor soil with a neutral to alkaline reaction (pH 6.0–7.5); it tolerates stony and limestone substrates well. It tolerates frost well: American horticultural sources give a zone range of 3a–8b, the British RHS a more cautious category H5, that is down to about -15°C. It responds much worse to standing water — winter waterlogging ends in rot of the root collar. The evergreen leaves are sometimes scorched by February sun when the soil is still frozen and the plant cannot replenish water; shading with conifer branches helps then. Related species are easy to tell apart: Gibraltar candytuft (Iberis gibraltarica) has larger, pinkish-lilac flowers and is markedly less frost-hardy, globe candytuft (Iberis umbellata) is an annual with pink and purple flowers, and aubretia (Aubrieta), with which candytuft shares its place in the rock garden and its botanical family, flowers purple and has soft, hairy leaves rather than leathery ones.

Popular cultivars

‘Snowflake’
One of the most commonly grown cultivars: about 20–25 cm tall, spreading just as wide as the type, with markedly larger flower clusters and broader, more leathery leaves. The default choice where a large, solid surface is to be created.
‘Purity’
Lower and more compact than the type, about 15–20 cm. After the spent shoots are cut off it can repeat flowering two to three times in a season, though the successive flushes are much weaker than the spring one.
‘Little Gem’
A dwarf cultivar, about 15–20 cm tall and up to 60 cm wide, with a very compact cushion and dark green leaves. Recommended for small rock gardens, troughs and containers. In German-language trade it also goes under the name Weisser Zwerg.
‘Alexander’s White’
One of the taller among those listed here, about 20–25 cm, with pure white flowers with a greenish tinge in the centre. It shows a tendency to repeat flowering in autumn.

Growing and care

Watering

Once established, water only during prolonged drought. Far more dangerous than drying out is excess water — wet, waterlogged soil in winter is the most common cause of plants dying off.

In summer every ~7 days · drought tolerance: High

Fertilizing

A single feed in March is quite enough. Excess nitrogen loosens the cushion, weakens its density and worsens its winter hardiness.

once a year, in early spring · kompost, nawóz wieloskładnikowy o spowolnionym działaniu

Planting

A position in full sun, permeable soil, rather poor, with a neutral to alkaline reaction. Replace heavy clay with a substrate mixed with gravel or grit, or raise the position above ground level.

Timing: April or September · spacing 25–40 cm

Pruning

Shorten the whole cushion by roughly one third, cutting the spent shoots within the leafy part. Done every year, this treatment keeps the clump compact and, in some cultivars, induces a weaker repeat flowering in late summer.

Timing: Right after flowering has finished, at the turn of May and June. · Caution: Do not cut into old, leafless wood at the base — the shoots regrow from it weakly or not at all, just as with lavender. Do not cut in autumn: the fresh growth will not manage to become woody before the frosts.

Companion plants

Good companions

AubrietaPractical observation

Ta sama nisza skalniakowa — słońce, przepuszczalna gleba, niska poducha — i to samo okno kwitnienia w kwietniu i maju; fiolet żagwina kontrastuje z bielą ubiorka.

Moss phloxPractical observation

Kolejna wiosenna roślina darniowa o identycznych wymaganiach glebowych i świetlnych; obie tworzą zwarte kobierce, które można sadzić obok siebie bez konkurencji o poziom.

Creeping thymePractical observation

Przejmuje kwitnienie na tym samym suchym, słonecznym stanowisku od czerwca, gdy ubiorek jest już po cięciu — kwatera pozostaje ozdobna przez cały sezon.

Bad companions

Siebold's plantain lilyPractical observation

Funkia wymaga półcienia i stale wilgotnej, próchnicznej gleby — warunków, w których ubiorek gnije i przestaje kwitnąć.

RhododendronPractical observation

Różanecznik potrzebuje gleby kwaśnej i wilgotnej, ubiorek obojętnej do zasadowej i suchej; zakwaszanie podłoża pod jednego szkodzi drugiemu.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Downy mildew

Yellow or angular (vein-bounded) spots on the upper leaf surface, matched underneath by a grey-violet or brown coating of spores. It differs from powdery mildew, whose white coating sits on the upper surface. It develops in humidity and cool nights and is dangerous to cucumbers, onions and grapevines. The spots are initially light green or yellowing, and their angular, mosaic-like shape arises because the pathogen's spread is halted by the larger leaf veins. The delicate, felt-like coating on the underside (hence the name 'mildew') is the sporulation of the oomycete — best seen in the morning or after a period of high air humidity. Over time the spots turn brown, dry out and merge, the leaf dies prematurely, which weakens the whole plant and lowers the yield. The disease is highly host-specialised: cucumbers and squashes are attacked by Pseudoperonospora cubensis, onion by Peronospora destructor, grapevine by Plasmopara viticola, and lettuce by Bremia lactucae — so infection of one species usually does not spread to unrelated crops.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Slugs and snails

Slugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None The species does not appear on lists of poisonous plants; it is not, however, an edible plant and has no culinary uses.
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

The species was described by Carl Linnaeus in "Species Plantarum" of 1753. Its natural range extends from the Iberian Peninsula to Turkey: it covers Spain, France, Italy, the Balkans and Greece, reaches Crete and the islands of the eastern Aegean, and beyond Europe north-western Africa with Morocco. There the plant colonises limestone rocks, screes and sun-baked mountain slopes — poor, skeletal habitats that dry out quickly. This ecology explains the plant's full set of garden requirements and is the reason why a fertile, moist perennial bed is a worse position for it than a crack in a wall. The genus name refers to Iberia, that is the Iberian Peninsula, and the specific epithet sempervirens means literally "always green" and refers to the leaves that overwinter on the shoots. The English common name of the whole genus — candytuft — has nothing to do with candy: it derives from Candia, the former name of Crete, from where the related globe candytuft was brought to Western Europe. In gardens evergreen candytuft spread with the fashion for rock gardens in the 19th and 20th centuries and gave rise to a dozen or so established cultivars differing mainly in height and in the tendency to repeat flowering. The British Royal Horticultural Society has placed the species on its list of plants valuable to pollinators.

Uses

The basic uses are the rock garden, the crown of a retaining wall, the edge of a path and the rim of a raised bed. The cushion cascades attractively over a stone edge, which is why it is planted right at the margin, not deep in the plot. It also works well in gravel gardens, on sunny banks, in troughs and containers, and in cemetery plantings — everywhere a low plant is needed that is sparing with water and ornamental in winter too. A spacing of 25–40 cm, that is roughly four to six plants per square metre, gives a solid surface after two seasons; planting looser than instinct suggests is safer, because it improves airflow and limits mildews and grey mould. The planting time is April or September, always into a substrate with an admixture of gravel or grit; with heavy clay the substrate must be replaced or the position raised above ground level, because sand simply added to clay does not solve the problem. The best partners are plants flowering in the same window and with the same requirements: garden aubretia with purple, moss phlox with pink and lilac, sweet alyssum, and among bulbs grape hyacinth and low tulips — the white of candytuft then acts as an organising background for the strong colours of the rock garden. Flowering is taken over from it by thyme and stonecrops, so that the same plot stays attractive until autumn. It should not be combined with perennials of shade and acid soils — hostas, ferns, rhododendrons — because the conditions that suit those are lethal to candytuft. In a container it needs a vessel with drainage and a mineral substrate; in a pot it overwinters only in a sheltered spot, because the root ball freezes right through much faster than in the ground. It is sometimes cited as a plant avoided by deer and rabbits, which matters in gardens on the edge of a field or forest, though under heavy animal pressure this is no guarantee.

Trivia

  • The candytuft cluster uses the principle we know from viburnums and umbellifers: the marginal flowers have two enlarged outer petals, so that the whole cluster "pretends" to be one large flower and is more visible to insects than the sum of the tiny flowers.
  • Candytuft is a close relative of cabbage, radish and cress — it belongs to the cabbage family, which is easiest to confirm by counting the petals: always four, arranged in a cross.
  • The English name candytuft comes from Candia, the former name of Crete, and not from the word candy; it is a trace of the first species of this genus brought to Western European gardens.
  • The epithet sempervirens ("always green") is no exaggeration — the leaves pass the winter on the shoots, so that the rock garden is not a bare heap of stones in February.

Frequently asked questions

Why does candytuft go bald in the middle after a few years?

This is the result of skipping the trim after flowering. An uncut cushion regrows outwards every year, while its centre turns into bare, woody shoots that light does not reach. This is prevented by an annual shortening of the whole clump by about one third right after flowering. If the centre has already fallen apart, cutting into old wood usually does not help — the shoots regrow from it weakly or not at all; more effective is to bend down and cover healthy side shoots so that they root, or to replace the plant.

Candytuft died over winter even though the winter was mild — what happened?

Almost always the cause is water, not frost. The species is given as frost-hardy in zones 3a–8b, though British sources are more cautious (the RHS rates it H5, that is down to about -15°C). On a waterlogged, sodden soil, however, its root collar rots, and mild, wet winters are more dangerous in this respect than frosty and dry ones. The solution is a permeable substrate with an admixture of gravel or raising the position. A second, rarer cause is scorching of the evergreen leaves by February sun over frozen soil — the plant then usually recovers but looks burnt in spring.

Will candytuft flower a second time in the season?

The main flowering falls in April and May and it is this that is the true asset of the species. Some cultivars, among them Purity and Alexander's White, can produce a second, markedly weaker flush of flowers in late summer or early autumn after the spent shoots are cut off. One should not, however, count on a repeat of the spring effect — these are single flower clusters, not a solid carpet.

How do I propagate evergreen candytuft?

The most reliable are stem cuttings taken right after flowering, in June and July: 5–7 cm semi-woody shoot tips root in sand or perlite, in a shady spot and under cover. The species is propagated from seed — cultivars propagated vegetatively, that is from cuttings, do not come true from seed and give seedlings of a less compact habit; the exception is cultivars offered in trade as seed, which are sown according to the producer's description. Dividing the clump is better avoided: the woody base tolerates being torn apart badly and the separated fragments often fail to take.

Is candytuft suitable for limestone soil, for example under a concrete wall?

Yes, and it is one of its main uses. The species comes from the limestone rocks of southern Europe, tolerates a neutral and alkaline reaction (pH roughly 6.0–7.5) and grows well in the cracks of walls and on substrate over-limed by mortar. This is the opposite of the requirements of rhododendrons, heathers and blueberries, which must not be planted in such a place.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/25/2026.

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