Flowering currant

Ribes sanguineum · Flowering currant (EN) · Blut-Johannisbeere (DE)

Flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) is an ornamental deciduous shrub that, in early spring before most plants have leafed out, covers itself in pendent clusters of carmine to pink flowers. It is an ornamental species — not to be confused with the fruiting currants.

Full sun/Partial shade Medium watering USDA 5b–8b
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In short

  • An early-flowering ornamental shrub — blooms in April, before the rest of the garden wakes up.
  • Pendent clusters of carmine or pink flowers attract the first bees and bumblebees.
  • An ORNAMENTAL species — the berries are edible but insipid; not a currant for preserving.
  • Easy and hardy (USDA 5); tolerates sun and partial shade.
  • Flowers on last year's wood — prune immediately after flowering.

Botanical data

Family
Grossulariaceae (Grossulariaceae)
Height
1.5–3 m
Width
1.5–2.5 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Loamy, Humus-rich, Sandy
pH reaction
pH 6–7.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
April–May
Hardiness
USDA 5b–8b
Propagation
From cuttings, By layering

Characteristics

An upright shrub 1.5–3 m tall with palmately lobed leaves that are aromatic when crushed. The small, tubular flowers, in shades from pale pink to deep red, are borne in characteristic pendent racemes 5–10 cm long. After flowering, blue-black berries with a waxy bloom are produced.

Growing and care

Watering

Likes moderately moist, free-draining soil. Water in drought and in the first year after planting; it does not tolerate a wet, waterlogged site.

In summer every ~8 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

Undemanding; a spring mulch of compost is enough.

in spring · kompost

Planting

A sunny to lightly shaded site with average, fertile and free-draining soil; enrich the planting hole with compost.

Timing: October–November or March–April · spacing 120–180 cm

Pruning calendar

Pruning group: Spring-flowering shrubs

Why then: The flower buds form in summer on this year's shoots and only bloom the following spring. Pruning right after flowering gives the plant a full season to grow new shoots with buds for next year.

What and how to cut

Right after flowering each year, cut out 1/4–1/3 of the oldest shoots at the very base, and shorten the spent shoots back to a young side branch. This keeps a steady supply of young shoots coming from the bottom.

Immediately after flowering (May–June).

What not to do

Don't prune in winter or early spring before flowering — you'll remove the ready-formed buds and there will be no flowers. The right window is only the brief moment right after flowering. Don't shear them flat like a hedge either — you'll ruin the natural shape and the flowering shoots.

Companion plants

Good companions

Border forsythiaPractical observation

Both shrubs flower in early spring; the yellow of forsythia contrasts beautifully with the carmine of the currant, making a colourful spring accent.

Spring bulbs (daffodils, grape hyacinths)Practical observation

They flower at the same time at the foot of the shrub and extend the early colour before the perennials come into leaf.

Bad companions

Marsh plants and plants of permanently wet sites (e.g. marsh marigold)Practical observation

They indicate a waterlogged soil on which flowering currant rots at the roots and grows poorly.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Sawflies

The larvae strongly resemble the caterpillars of butterflies and moths, but have more pairs of abdominal prolegs (six and more) and single ocelli on the sides of the head, by which they can be told apart. They often feed gregariously, skeletonising the leaves or eating them down to the veins, and can strip a gooseberry or currant bush bare within a few days. The host plants are gooseberry, currant, rose, plum and pine. Symptoms: besides the defoliation of leaves, the larvae of fruit-dwelling species (e.g. on plum) bore into the young fruit set and cause it to drop. Adult sawflies are small (a few millimetres) hymenopterans without a distinct 'wasp waist' — the abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax, which distinguishes them from wasps and bees; the females have a saw-like ovipositor (hence the name 'sawflies'), with which they cut into the tissue of a leaf or fruit set and lay their eggs inside it. The larvae are most often green, matching the colour of the leaf, in some species with dark warts or spots; their prolegs lack the grasping crochets that the caterpillars of moths have, and when disturbed the larvae of many species raise the rear end of the body into a characteristic 'S' shape. The most damaging groups are: the gooseberry sawfly (Nematus ribesii) on gooseberry and currant, stripping the bush from the inside out; the slug sawflies (genus Caliroa) on pear, cherry and plum, whose slimy, slug-like larvae graze away the upper skin of the leaf (windowing), so that the leaf turns brown as if scorched; the fruit sawflies of the genus Hoplocampa on plum and apple, tunnelling galleries into the young fruit set and leaving moist, foul-smelling droppings; and the conifer sawflies (Diprion, Neodiprion) on pine, feeding gregariously on the needles. Life cycle: the adults emerge in spring, the larvae feed for several weeks, after which they descend into the soil or leaf litter, where they pupate in a cocoon and overwinter as a larva (prepupa); depending on the species, 1–3 generations develop in a season.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None The fruit is not poisonous, but insipid and of no culinary value — it is an ornamental, not a fruit, plant.
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

Discovered on the west coast of North America and brought to Europe in the 1820s by the Scottish botanist David Douglas. It quickly became one of the most popular spring shrubs in the gardens of Western Europe, giving rise to cultivars from white to deep carmine.

Uses

For shrub borders, informal hedges and naturalistic gardens, valued above all for its very early flowering. The flowering branches are suitable for cutting and open in the vase even before the season.

Trivia

  • Crushed leaves give off a characteristic resinous smell, which some find pungent.
  • In its North American homeland, the early flowers are an important nectar source for returning hummingbirds.

Frequently asked questions

Are the berries of flowering currant edible?

They are not poisonous, but they are insipid and of no culinary value. Flowering currant is an ornamental, not a fruit, shrub — it should not be confused with blackcurrant or redcurrant, which are grown for preserving.

When should flowering currant be pruned?

Immediately after flowering, in May or June. The plant flowers on last year's wood, so pruning in winter or early spring would remove the buds. Each year, cut a few of the oldest stems out at the base to rejuvenate the shrub.

Where should flowering currant be planted?

Best in a sunny to lightly shaded site in average, free-draining garden soil. The plant is easy and hardy, but it does not tolerate wet, waterlogged spots.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/20/2026.

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