In short
- A native species — the commonest wild rose in Poland; it is not covered by species protection.
- It flowers once only, in June and early July, with single five-petalled flowers — it does not repeat-flower like garden roses.
- The hips ripen from September and stay on the shrub through the winter; they are a herbal raw material with a very high vitamin C content.
- The standard rootstock of Polish rose nurseries — it is onto this that named cultivars are budded.
- Pruning is minimal and rejuvenating; shortening the stems as for hybrid tea roses strips the shrub of flowers, and with them of hips.
Botanical data
- Family
- Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
- Height
- 1.5–3 m
- Width
- 1.5–3 m
- Habit
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Sandy, Loamy, Chalky, Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7.8
- Moisture
- Dry, Moderate
- Bloom
- June–July
- Hardiness
- USDA 4a–8a
- Propagation
- From seed, From cuttings, By layering
Characteristics
A shrub with arching stems that bend down towards the ground, usually reaching 1.5–3 m in height and a similar width; individual stems leaning on neighbouring shrubs or trees can scramble considerably higher. The stems are covered with strong, hooked prickles — it is these, and not tendrils or adhesive pads, that allow the plant to hook itself onto its surroundings. The leaves are odd-pinnate, most often made up of 5–7 elliptic, sharply toothed leaflets. The flowers have just five petals, about 4–5 cm across, in shades from pale pink to almost white, with a delicate, faint scent; they are borne singly or a few together and open in June and early July. Flowering is once only: the buds are laid down on stems from previous years, so the shrub does not repeat-flower like modern garden roses — and it is precisely this that determines how it is pruned. Rose flowers secrete no nectar, so the species is not a nectar plant in the strict sense; for bees, flies and beetles it is, however, an easily accessible source of pollen, because a single flower has no petals screening the stamens. After flowering the receptacle swells into a fleshy, orange-red hip 1.5–2 cm long, inside which sit the true fruits — achenes — surrounded by stiff, irritant hairs. The hips ripen from September and hang on the shrub through the winter. The plant develops a deep, strong root system, thanks to which it copes well with drought, wind and calcareous soils; it grows best on neutral and alkaline ground and tolerates a slightly acid reaction as well, but reacts badly to waterlogged, compacted and strongly acid soil. Suckers come up from the roots, so that in time the shrub spreads into a clump — an advantage in an informal hedge and a drawback in a narrow border. Cytologically the species is a pentaploid with 35 chromosomes, and its seeds require a long, two-stage stratification before they will germinate.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Inermis’
- A rootstock clone with stems almost free of prickles (the Latin inermis means unarmed), which makes budding and lifting plants in the nursery safer. Valued for vigorous growth, a healthy root system, frost hardiness and good union with cultivars from many rose groups.
- ‘Pfänder’
- A German rootstock clone, present in the Polish nursery trade as well (the catalogue of the Polish Nurserymen Association). It stands out for the even growth of its seedlings and for coming into budding condition early.
- ‘Schmid’s Ideal’
- A rootstock clone listed in Polish nursery catalogues; studied anatomically with regard to the structure of the root collar and the union with the budded named cultivar.
Growing and care
Watering
Once established it needs practically no watering — the deep root system copes well with drought. Water during the first two seasons after planting and in prolonged heat, infrequently but generously.
Fertilizing
A native species, adapted to poor soils. Feeding with nitrogen pushes out lush, soft growth at the expense of hip set and leaves the stems less well ripened before winter.
Planting
It needs no special soil preparation and tolerates reactions from slightly acid to alkaline. Avoid waterlogged, compacted and strongly acid positions; it copes very well with calcareous and stony soils.
Pruning
Rejuvenating rather than shortening pruning: a few of the oldest main stems are cut out at ground level, together with dead, diseased and crossing stems. The remaining stems are not shortened — the flower buds are laid down on wood from previous years.
Companion plants
Good companions
Klasyczna para rodzimego żywopłotu swobodnego: te same wymagania świetlne (słońce lub półcień) i ten sam zakres odczynu gleby (obojętny do zasadowego), podobna, kłująca budowa, a owoce obu krzewów wydłużają bazę pokarmową ptaków na całą jesień i zimę. Głóg potrzebuje jednak podłoża przeciętnie wilgotnego, więc najsuchsze fragmenty pasa lepiej obsadzić samą różą.
Rodzimy krzew o zbliżonych wymaganiach glebowych i prawdziwych cierniach; razem z dziką różą tworzy nieprzenikniony pas obronny. Rozrasta się jednak odrostami korzeniowymi jeszcze silniej, więc wymaga szerokiego pasa i odsunięcia od rabat.
Uzupełnia żywopłot swobodny z dwóch stron sezonu: kwitnie wcześniej (maj–czerwiec), a jej owoce wiszą dłużej, bo utrzymują się do grudnia, podczas gdy owoce róży schodzą do listopada. Wymaga natomiast podłoża wilgotnego i znosi odczyn kwaśny, więc sadzi się ją w niższej, wilgotniejszej części pasa.
Bad companions
Obie róże chorują na te same choroby liści (czarna plamistość, rdza), a rozrastająca się odrostami dzika róża z czasem zagłusza odmianę szlachetną. W bliskim sąsiedztwie trudno też odróżnić jej pędy od dziczek wybijających spod miejsca okulizacji.
Sam lekko kwaśny odczyn dzikiej róży nie szkodzi — problemem jest reżim wodny takiego miejsca. Krzewy te uprawia się w kwaśnym, stale wilgotnym torfie o słabym drenażu, a dzika róża wymaga podłoża przepuszczalnego i przesychającego; we wspólnej niecce jej korzenie podgniwają, a podniesienie drenażu odbija się na sąsiadach.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
Black to dark-brown spots with ragged margins on rose leaves, surrounded by yellowing of the leaf blade. Infected leaves drop in large numbers, weakening the plant and reducing flowering. The disease intensifies in wet seasons and where air circulation is poor. The spots are usually round, from a few millimetres to about 1-1.5 cm across, and their most important diagnostic feature is the radially fringed, feathery margin - the mycelium spreads beneath the leaf cuticle in all directions, producing the characteristic 'star-shaped' edge (hence the German name Sternrußtau). Under heavy infection the spots merge into larger, irregular patches, and the surrounding yellowing spreads across more and more of the blade until the whole leaf turns yellow and drops. Small, dark conidial fruiting bodies (acervuli) appear on the upper surface of the spots, while the underside of the leaf remains free of any coating. Symptoms appear first on the lower, oldest leaves and gradually move up the shrub, because the spores are carried by water splashing up from the soil and from lower leaves. Small, purplish-red discolorations and blotches may appear on young, green shoots. Prolonged wetting of the leaves for several hours is required for the spores to germinate and infect, which is why the disease breaks out after warm, rainy spells. Repeated defoliation exhausts the shrub, limits flowering and worsens winter hardiness.
RustRusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
Powdery mildewA white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
SawfliesThe larvae strongly resemble the caterpillars of butterflies and moths, but have more pairs of abdominal prolegs (six and more) and single ocelli on the sides of the head, by which they can be told apart. They often feed gregariously, skeletonising the leaves or eating them down to the veins, and can strip a gooseberry or currant bush bare within a few days. The host plants are gooseberry, currant, rose, plum and pine. Symptoms: besides the defoliation of leaves, the larvae of fruit-dwelling species (e.g. on plum) bore into the young fruit set and cause it to drop. Adult sawflies are small (a few millimetres) hymenopterans without a distinct 'wasp waist' — the abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax, which distinguishes them from wasps and bees; the females have a saw-like ovipositor (hence the name 'sawflies'), with which they cut into the tissue of a leaf or fruit set and lay their eggs inside it. The larvae are most often green, matching the colour of the leaf, in some species with dark warts or spots; their prolegs lack the grasping crochets that the caterpillars of moths have, and when disturbed the larvae of many species raise the rear end of the body into a characteristic 'S' shape. The most damaging groups are: the gooseberry sawfly (Nematus ribesii) on gooseberry and currant, stripping the bush from the inside out; the slug sawflies (genus Caliroa) on pear, cherry and plum, whose slimy, slug-like larvae graze away the upper skin of the leaf (windowing), so that the leaf turns brown as if scorched; the fruit sawflies of the genus Hoplocampa on plum and apple, tunnelling galleries into the young fruit set and leaving moist, foul-smelling droppings; and the conifer sawflies (Diprion, Neodiprion) on pine, feeding gregariously on the needles. Life cycle: the adults emerge in spring, the larvae feed for several weeks, after which they descend into the soil or leaf litter, where they pupate in a cocoon and overwinter as a larva (prepupa); depending on the species, 1–3 generations develop in a season.
Leaf-roller moths (tortricids)The caterpillars roll, fold and glue leaves together with a webbing of silk threads, creating shelters in which they feed hidden from view. When disturbed they wriggle violently backwards and drop on threads, which aids their identification; the adults are small moths with a bell-shaped outline of the folded wings. The host plants are fruit trees (apple, pear, plum), ornamental shrubs and roses. Symptoms: the caterpillars chew leaves, flower buds and fruit set and damage the skin of ripening fruit, reducing its value. The name covers many species of the family Tortricidae with a similar way of life - among them the summer fruit tortrix (Adoxophyes orana) and the rose tortrix (Archips rosana). The caterpillars are slender, up to about 1.5-2 cm long, usually light or olive green with a darker head and prothoracic plate, and very active. The moths have a wingspan of about 15-25 mm; at rest they fold the forewings roof-like, giving the characteristic bell-shaped (trapezoidal) outline, and their pattern is greyish-brown with a darker cross-band. The life cycle depends on the species: leaf-rollers overwinter as eggs laid in patches on the bark or as young caterpillars hidden in bark crevices and under bud scales; in spring they bore into the swelling buds, then move onto the leaves and fruit set, and one or two generations develop over the season. A diagnostic feature on pome fruit is the attachment of a leaf to the fruit and the shallow grazing of the skin beneath it, which leaves irregular, corky scars while the flesh deeper inside remains intact. On roses and ornamental shrubs the symptom is rolled young leaflets bound with webbing and hollowed-out buds.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | The hips are edible and widely used in preserving. The only irritant part is the stiff hairs filling the inside of the hip — they must be removed before processing. |
| Dogs | Mild | The plant is not poisonous; the real hazard is the hooked prickles, which cause mechanical injuries. |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
Dog rose hips have been gathered in Europe for centuries — first as food and a household remedy, and from the 20th century as a deliberately exploited source of vitamins; in the European Pharmacopoeia they are listed under the name Rosae pseudo-fructus. The best-known episode of this history is the British campaign during the Second World War: cut off from citrus supplies, the Ministry of Health organised a mass harvest by schools and youth organisations in 1941, and from the roughly 200 tonnes collected at that time nearly 600,000 bottles of syrup were produced, intended above all for children. Alongside it ran a second, purely horticultural career. Dog rose seedlings give a healthy, frost-hardy root system and unite well with cultivars from all rose groups, which is why they became the standard rootstock of European — including Polish — rose nurseries; budding is carried out on them in summer, usually in July and August. Over the course of the 20th century, rootstock clones with even growth were selected from the species, among them Inermis, Pfänder and Schmid’s Ideal, still listed in nursery catalogues today.
Uses
In the garden the dog rose comes into its own above all where it can grow freely: in informal and defensive hedges, field shelterbelts, on banks to stabilise the ground, in naturalistic gardens and along the boundary of a plot. The dense, prickly tangle of stems forms an impenetrable barrier and at the same time shelter and a nesting place for small birds; the hips hanging through the winter are food for thrushes, blackbirds and waxwings, among others. For a hedge the plants are set 80–100 cm apart, in a single row or in two staggered rows; a single shrub needs about 1.5 m of clearance from its neighbours, because it also spreads by root suckers. It is not, however, suitable for clipped hedges or for formal rose beds: it flowers briefly and only once, and regular clipping would deprive it of its hips. Harvesting begins in September, ideally when the hips are fully coloured but still firm; after the first frosts they soften and sweeten, which makes them easier to process but shortens the time in which they have to be used. Before processing, the seeds together with the irritant hairs are scooped out of the middle — skipping this step gives a preserve that irritates the throat. The flesh is made into conserves, jams, syrups, wines and liqueurs, and the dried hips are the basis of herbal teas; processing and drying should be done as quickly as possible, because long boiling and slow drying destroy vitamin C. A separate, professional use is in nurseries: named cultivars are budded in summer onto dog rose seedlings or rootstock clones, transferring them onto a stronger, more frost-hardy root system.
Trivia
- The dog rose is a pentaploid (2n = 5x = 35) and undergoes a division unique in the plant world, known as canina meiosis: only seven pairs of chromosomes form bivalents and pass into both kinds of gamete, while the remainder are transmitted exclusively through the egg cell. This produces tetraploid egg cells and haploid pollen, and the offspring inherit the great majority of their genetic material from the mother plant.
- The epithet 'dog' goes back to antiquity: Pliny the Elder recorded the belief that a decoction of this rose's root cured the bite of a mad dog. The belief proved false, but it stuck in the Latin name (canina), the Polish one (psia róża) and the English one (dog rose).
- The stiff hairs filling the inside of the hip were once used as itching powder — tipped down someone's collar they cause persistent irritation of the skin.
- The shaggy, red-green growths that sometimes cover dog rose stems are bedeguars — galls caused by the larvae of a small wasp, Diplolepis rosae. They do the shrub no harm and need no control.
Frequently asked questions
How does the dog rose differ from the hybrid tea rose?
The dog rose is a native species that grows in the wild without human help; the hybrid tea rose (Rosa × hybrida) is a group of garden cultivars bred from the second half of the 19th century onwards. The dog rose has single, five-petalled flowers 4–5 cm across and flowers only once a year, in June and early July; the hybrid tea has double flowers, usually 10–12 cm, and repeat-flowers from June to September. They are also pruned differently: hybrid tea cultivars are pruned hardest of all roses, with the stems cut back to a few eyes (of the order of 10–15 cm above the ground), floribunda roses somewhat more gently, while the dog rose is only rejuvenated, cutting the oldest stems out at the base and leaving the rest unshortened. There is also a purely practical link between them: a hybrid tea rose bought at a nursery is most often a cultivar budded onto dog rose.
How and when should the dog rose be pruned?
Minimally, and only when the shrub is too congested or worn out. Timing: late winter or very early spring, before the buds break. The job consists of cutting out a few of the oldest main stems right at the base, together with dead, diseased and crossing stems; the remaining stems are not shortened, because the flower buds sit on wood from previous years. Spent flowers are not removed either — they are what the hips develop from, and the hips are this shrub's main asset. Pruning after flowering, which is correct for many spring-flowering shrubs, would cost the dog rose its entire crop of hips.
When should dog rose hips be picked and how should they be prepared?
Picking starts in September, when the hips are fully coloured but still hard — these stand up best to transport and drying. Hips gathered after frosts are softer and sweeter and their insides come out more easily, but they spoil faster, so they have to be processed straight away. In both cases the seeds are scooped out of the middle before processing, together with the hard hairs, which irritate the throat and the digestive tract. Vitamin C is sensitive to heat and to prolonged warming, so processing and drying should be quick, and the dried hips kept in an airtight, dark container.
Is the dog rose suitable for a hedge?
Yes, but only for an informal (unclipped) or defensive hedge — not a clipped one. It is planted 80–100 cm apart, in a single row or in two staggered rows; after a few years this gives a dense, prickly belt 1.5–3 m high. You have to reckon with root suckers coming up beyond the planting line, which is why it is not planted right next to a perennial border or a narrow path. Regular clipping defeats the purpose: it removes the stems carrying the flower buds, and with them the future hips, which are this shrub's main asset in the second half of the year.
Why has my garden rose 'turned into' a wild one?
This is not a cultivar changing, but suckers from the rootstock. Almost every garden rose bought is a cultivar budded onto dog rose; if the named part weakens or is killed by frost, the rootstock starts to throw up its own stems from below the bud union. A sucker is recognised by its smaller, lighter leaflets (often seven to a leaf, where the cultivar usually has five), by its denser hooked prickles, and by the fact that it emerges below the swelling at the base of the shrub. Such stems are pulled off right at the base rather than cut with secateurs — several new ones regrow from a stub. Once the rootstock takes the shrub over, the flowers become small, single and pale pink, and the shrub then flowers only once a year.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Rosa caninaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Rosa canina (dog rose)Institution / botanical garden
- Katalog Roślin Związku Szkółkarzy Polskich — Rosa caninaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- Plants For A Future — Rosa caninaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
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