Golden pothos

Epipremnum aureum · Golden pothos (EN) · Efeutute (DE)

Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), commonly known as pothos, is an exceptionally easy-to-grow trailing or climbing houseplant with heart-shaped leaves marbled in yellow.

Partial shade/Shade Low watering USDA 10b–11b Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • One of the easiest houseplants - ideal for beginners.
  • Tolerates partial shade, shade and irregular watering.
  • Can be grown in soil or in water alone.
  • Grows quickly and propagates easily from stem cuttings.
  • Toxic to dogs and cats if chewed.

Botanical data

Family
Araceae (Araceae)
Height
0.3–2 m
Width
0.2–0.5 m
Habit
Cascading
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Partial shade, Shade
Soil
Humus-rich
pH reaction
pH 6–6.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
Hardiness
USDA 10b–11b
Propagation
From cuttings

Characteristics

An evergreen climber with flexible shoots and heart-shaped, glossy leaves, often with yellow or cream marbled variegation. It produces clinging aerial roots that allow it to climb up supports.

Growing and care

Watering

One of the most forgiving plants - it tolerates irregular watering. It can also be grown in water alone.

In summer every ~7 days · drought tolerance: High

Fertilizing

Undemanding - grows well even with minimal feeding.

every 4 weeks during the growing season · nawóz do roślin zielonych

Planting

A universal, well-draining substrate for foliage plants.

Timing: repot in spring as needed

Pruning

Shorten overly long shoots - this encourages the plant to branch and thicken.

Timing: Year-round. · Caution: Cut shoots can be used as cuttings - they root easily.

Companion plants

Good companions

Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)Practical observation

Similar light and water requirements, both members of the arum family - an easy shared position.

Bad companions

Plants that need full sunPractical observation

Epipremnum prefers partial shade; in full sun the leaves fade and scorch.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Mealybugs

Insects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.

Fungus gnats

Small, dark gnats (2–4 mm) flying around pots and scurrying across the surface of the substrate. The adults are a nuisance, but the real damage is done by their larvae in the soil, feeding on the roots and the base of the stems of young plants. A constantly moist, humus-rich substrate favours their development — the classic result of overwatering houseplants. Adult fungus gnats are delicate, mosquito-like flies with a slender, dark grey body, long, beaded antennae and a single pair of smoky wings; they fly clumsily in short bursts, readily settle on the surface of the substrate and on window panes, and when disturbed rise up in a little cloud. They themselves do not damage plants — they neither pierce nor suck sap — but their presence is a reliable sign that larvae are developing in the substrate. The larvae are translucent, whitish, legless and elongated (up to 5–6 mm), with a distinct, glossy black head capsule — it is this black head that distinguishes them from other soil organisms. They feed mainly on dead organic matter, fungal mycelium and algae, but at high densities they gnaw on young roots, root hairs and the base of stems. The signs of their feeding are wilting and stunted growth of seedlings and young potted plants, yellowing, poor rooting and, in extreme cases, seedlings toppling over and dying off where they have been chewed at the base. The wounds inflicted by the larvae are also entry points for infection, and the larvae and adults themselves can carry the spores of soil pathogens (including Pythium, Fusarium, Botrytis), linking the pest problem with root-rot diseases. The development cycle (egg → larva → pupa → adult) takes about 3–4 weeks in warmth and shortens at high temperatures; a female lays several dozen to over a hundred eggs on the moist surface of the substrate, and in a heated home or greenhouse the generations overlap throughout the year, so that with constant overwatering the population builds up quickly.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild Contains calcium oxalates that irritate the mucous membranes if ingested.
Dogs Moderate
Cats Moderate

History and origin

It originates from the islands of the Pacific, where in the tropical climate it reaches enormous sizes. As a houseplant it has gained worldwide popularity thanks to its exceptional tolerance of neglect and its air-purifying ability.

Uses

For hanging pots, on shelves and cabinets, as a climber on supports, and for hydroponic cultivation in vases of water.

Trivia

  • Pothos is frequently cited in NASA studies on plants that clean the air of volatile organic compounds.
  • In the tropics it can climb to a height of a dozen or more metres, producing leaves far larger than those seen in pot cultivation.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my pothos losing its yellow variegation?

The most common cause is too little light - in shade the plant produces more chlorophyll and the leaves turn uniformly green. Move it to a brighter spot (without direct sun).

Can pothos be kept in water permanently?

Yes, epipremnum grows well in water alone for a long time. It is worth changing the water every 1-2 weeks and periodically adding a small dose of liquid fertiliser.

How often should I water epipremnum?

Usually once a week in summer and every two weeks in winter, once the top layer of the substrate has dried out. The plant copes well with brief drying out.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/3/2025.

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