Kiwi

Actinidia deliciosa · Kiwi (EN) · Kiwi (DE)

Kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa) is a vigorous, dioecious fruiting climber whose hairy, brown fruits are known as kiwifruit — with green, sweet-and-sour flesh rich in vitamin C.

Full sun/Partial shade High watering USDA 7a–9b
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In short

  • A dioecious climber — fruit set requires a male and a female plant (one male pollinates several females).
  • Hairy fruits ripening in late autumn; they also ripen further after harvest in storage.
  • Needs a warm, sheltered site and a strong support — in Poland it is on the edge of hardiness.
  • Fertile, humus-rich, slightly acidic and evenly moist but free-draining soil.
  • Fruits on the current year's shoots — correct winter pruning is key.

Botanical data

Family
Actinidiaceae (Actinidiaceae)
Height
4–8 m
Width
2–4 m
Habit
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Loamy, Sandy
pH reaction
pH 5.5–7
Moisture
Moderate, Moist
Bloom
May–June
Hardiness
USDA 7a–9b
Propagation
From cuttings, By layering

Characteristics

A perennial, woody climber reaching 4–8 m on a support. The large, heart-shaped leaves on reddish stalks are softly hairy. Fragrant, cream-white flowers appear in May and June; the plant is dioecious, so male and female flowers grow on separate individuals. The fruit is an ovoid berry covered in a brown, rough down.

Growing and care

Watering

The large, thin leaves transpire heavily — in heat and during fruiting the plant needs generous, regular watering, but does not tolerate waterlogging at the roots.

In summer every ~3 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

A heavy feeder; avoid nitrogen feeding after midsummer so the wood can ripen before winter.

in spring and early summer · kompost lub obornik wiosną, nawóz o zrównoważonym NPK

Planting

Deep, humus-rich, free-draining soil in a warm, wind-sheltered site; a strong support structure (pergola, wire) is essential.

Timing: April–May, after the frosts have passed · spacing 300–400 cm

Pruning calendar

Pruning group: Grapevine and kiwi — pruning in midwinter

Why then: Grapevine and kiwi “bleed” sap heavily after pruning as soon as growth starts; in full dormancy (midwinter) the wounds are safe and heal faster.

What and how to cut

In midwinter, while the plant is dormant — ideally on a milder, frost-free and dry day — cut last year’s shoots back to 1–2 buds on a chosen permanent framework (spur pruning).

In winter (December–February) when leafless, and correctively in summer.

What not to do

Do not prune in late winter or spring — the sap flow weakens the plant and floods the buds. Also avoid pruning during hard frost, because fresh wounds can freeze.

Companion plants

Good companions

Low ground-cover perennials (e.g. periwinkle, bugle)Gardening tradition

They shade and cool the root zone of the climber, which does not tolerate the soil drying out.

Alliums (garlic, chives)Gardening tradition

Aromatic secretions can help to limit fungal diseases at the base of the shoots.

Bad companions

Lawn under the climberPractical observation

A dense turf under the kiwi competes for water and nitrogen and markedly slows the growth of the young plant.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Armoured and soft scale insects

Immobile, brown or yellowish shields (1-4 mm) attached to stems and the underside of leaves, especially along the veins. Easily mistaken for growths on the plant. They suck sap, causing yellowing and weakening, and excrete sticky honeydew. Common on figs, orchids and plants with tough leaves. The collective name covers two groups with different biology. Armoured scales (Diaspididae) have a hard waxy shield separate from the body, which can be prised off - beneath it emerges a tiny, legless and wingless female; they do not excrete honeydew. Soft scales (Coccidae) have a convex, cup-shaped cover fused with the body, and it is they that excrete it abundantly. Sticky honeydew - the domain of soft scales and other honeydew-producing scale insects, not of armoured scales - settles on the leaves and attracts sooty mould fungi (sooty mould, sooty blotch) as well as ants, which defend the colony against predators. The only mobile feeding stage is the crawler - a flat, tiny larva which, after hatching from beneath the mother's shield, disperses over the plant, then settles, inserts its stylet into the conducting tissues and loses the ability to move; adult females remain immobile for the rest of their lives. Males pupate and, as tiny, winged, short-lived insects, do not feed. In heated interiors the pest breeds all year round, producing several overlapping generations; outdoors usually 1-3 generations, and fertilised females or eggs hidden beneath the shield overwinter. Feeding symptoms are yellowing and premature leaf drop, dieback of shoots, stunting and weakening of the plant, and secondarily a black coating of sooty mould on leaves covered with honeydew. On fruit trees infested by San Jose scale (Comstockaspis perniciosa), reddish discolouration appears around the feeding sites, and heavily colonised branches die back. Because the shields are immobile and their colour blends into the bark and veins, an infestation is easily overlooked until honeydew appears or the plant is noticeably weakened - which is why regular inspection of the leaf undersides and shoot axils is key.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None Ripe fruits are edible and healthy; however, they contain calcium oxalate crystals and the enzyme actinidin, which in sensitive people can cause tingling in the mouth or an allergic reaction.
Dogs None
Cats None The fruit is non-toxic; shoots and leaves stimulate cats much like catnip, because the plant contains actinidin.

History and origin

The species comes from China, where it was known as the Chinese gooseberry. In the early 20th century seeds reached New Zealand, where large-fruited cultivars (including Hayward) were bred and the fruit was given the trade name kiwifruit. Today kiwi is grown commercially mainly in the Mediterranean, New Zealand and Chile.

Uses

For home fruit growing on pergolas, arbours and strong trellises in warmer, sheltered parts of the garden. Because of its vigorous growth and the need to plant a pair, it suits large sites rather than a balcony.

Trivia

  • The hairy kiwi is Actinidia deliciosa; the smooth-skinned, golden kiwi is the separate species Actinidia chinensis, and the small-fruited, very hardy kiwiberry is Actinidia arguta.
  • The fruits are picked firm and hard — they only soften and sweeten after harvest, which is why they travel and store well.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my kiwi not fruiting?

The most common cause is the lack of a pollinator. Kiwi is dioecious, so a male plant must grow alongside the female ones. Fruiting is also delayed by frost damage to spring shoots and by the plant being too young — the first fruits usually appear only after several years.

Will kiwi survive a Polish winter?

Actinidia deliciosa is more frost-sensitive than the small-fruited kiwiberry and in most of Poland needs a warm, sheltered site and winter protection for young plants. Late frosts can damage fresh shoots and flowers.

When are kiwifruit harvested?

The fruits are harvested in late autumn while still hard, just before the first stronger frosts. They ripen and soften in storage, so there is no need to wait for them to soften on the vine.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/20/2026.

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