In short
- The white part is created by earthing up — the higher it is covered with soil, the longer it gets.
- Very frost-hardy — it overwinters in the ground and can be harvested even on frosty days.
- A long growing season: from sowing to harvest usually takes 5–7 months.
- Plant the transplants in deep holes, without filling them with soil.
- An excellent neighbour for carrots — they deter each other's pests.
Botanical data
- Family
- Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllidaceae)
- Height
- 0.4–0.9 m
- Width
- 0.15–0.3 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 6.5–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- June–July
- Hardiness
- USDA 5a–9b
- Propagation
- From seed
Characteristics
A biennial grown as an annual: in the first year it builds its stem and leaves, and only in the second does it send up an impressive, spherical flower head — in the vegetable garden it is harvested before this stage. Unlike the onion, it does not form a swollen bulb but a so-called false stem: a thick, white cylinder of tightly wound leaf sheaths. The leaves are flat, spreading out like a fan, grey-green, often with a waxy bloom. The culinary value lies above all in the white and pale green part, grown without access to light; the green leaves are tougher and are mainly suited to stocks.
Growing and care
Watering
It has a long growing season and shallow roots, so it needs regular moisture all summer. Drought gives thin, tough stems and induces the plants to bolt prematurely into a flowering stem.
Fertilizing
Moderately, but systematically over the long season. Do not use fresh manure — it favours infection and poorer storage.
Planting
Fertile, humus-rich and deeply worked soil with a neutral reaction. Plant the transplants in deep holes (10–15 cm) made with a dibber, without filling them with soil — it is enough to flood them with water, and the hole will fill in by itself over time. This way of planting alone gives the first section of white stem.
Pruning
Before planting, shorten the transplants' leaves by roughly a third and trim the root tips — the plant then establishes better. In summer, gradually heap soil around the stem.
Companion plants
Good companions
Klasyczna para w ogrodzie: zapach pora odstrasza połyśnicę marchwiankę, a zapach marchwi — śmietkę cebulankę atakującą pory. Ochrona działa w obie strony.
Szybko dojrzewa i wykorzystuje wolne miejsce między wolno rosnącymi porami, zanim te zajmą cały zagon.
Sąsiedztwo roślin cebulowych tradycyjnie uznaje się za korzystne dla truskawek — ma ograniczać choroby grzybowe.
Nie konkuruje z porem o tę samą warstwę gleby i dobrze wypełnia zagon obok jego wąskich rządków.
Bad companions
Związki siarkowe wydzielane przez pora hamują bakterie brodawkowe na korzeniach grochu, czyli mechanizm wiązania azotu, na którym opiera się jego wzrost.
Jak wszystkie bobowate źle znosi sąsiedztwo roślin cebulowych — obie uprawy rosną wtedy słabiej.
Ten sam rodzaj Allium — wspólne szkodniki i choroby, przede wszystkim śmietka cebulanka i mączniak rzekomy cebuli, których presja rośnie przy uprawie obok siebie.
Kolejna roślina cebulowa dzieląca z porem szkodniki i patogeny glebowe; wymaga też tej samej przerwy w płodozmianie.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
Bacterial soft rotInfected fleshy organs — bulbs, tubers, storage roots and succulent stems — rot wet, turning into a slimy, watery, soft mass with a characteristic, unpleasant, putrid smell. The tissue disintegrates, and the skin often remains as a thin bag filled with decomposed flesh. The disease progresses rapidly in warmth and high humidity, especially in storage; it affects onion, garlic, tulip, daffodil, hyacinth and root vegetables. The first symptom is small, translucent, seemingly water-soaked spots that quickly turn brown and soften; at the site of infection the flesh becomes macerated — the bacteria break down the substances that cement the cell walls, so the tissue loses its cohesion and dissolves into a creamy-brown mush. In cross-section the boundary between healthy and diseased tissue is watery and blurred, and a cloudy, slimy ooze often seeps from the injury. In bulbs and the neck of bulbous plants the infection usually starts from the top or from a wound and descends deeper, producing a soft, slippery 'neck'; in potato, soft rot of the tubers links up with blackleg — the blackening, rotting base of the shoot. The bacterium itself does not form mycelium or a visible bloom — this distinguishes it from fungal rot — and the intense stench comes from secondary decomposition by other microorganisms. Symptoms progress fastest at temperatures above about 20°C, with poor ventilation and a film of water present on the surface of the organs.
ThripsVery small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.
Onion flyAn inconspicuous, ash-grey fly 6-7 mm long, resembling a small housefly; the damage is done by its larvae - legless, white, glossy maggots up to 8 mm long. The larvae bore into the bulbs and the base of the stem and tunnel through them, causing the plants to yellow and wilt, while infested bulbs rot and become secondarily infected with bacteria. It feeds on onion, garlic, leek and shallot; two to three generations usually develop over the season, and the first, in spring, attacks the youngest seedlings and is the most damaging. The fly overwinters in the soil as a puparium (a barrel-shaped, brown pupa) a few centimetres deep, most often where onions were grown the previous year. The flight of the first generation usually begins at the turn of April and May and is traditionally signalled by the flowering of dandelions and early fruit trees; the females then lay small, white, elongated eggs singly or in small groups at the base of the plants and in soil cracks right next to the bulb neck. The hatched larvae travel downwards and bore into the basal plate and the fleshy part of the bulb. In the bed, an infestation is recognised by the progressive yellowing and drying of the oldest onion leaves, the wilting of whole plants, and the fact that diseased plants can be pulled out of the ground very easily - tunnels and white larvae are visible in a cut-open bulb and at the base of the stem. The damaged tissue quickly turns into a wet, foul-smelling bacterial rot, so that a single larva can destroy an entire bulb, and the focus spreads to neighbouring plants in the row. The later generations (summer and late-summer) damage bulbs that have already formed, reducing their storage life.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | A fully edible vegetable — both the white stem and the green leaves, which are suitable for stocks. |
| Dogs | Moderate | Like all plants of the genus Allium (onion, garlic) it is toxic to dogs — it damages red blood cells and can cause anaemia. |
| Cats | High | Cats are even more sensitive to the sulphur compounds of alliums than dogs — even small amounts can be dangerous. |
History and origin
The leek derives from the wild broadleaf wild leek growing in the Mediterranean basin. The ancient Egyptians and Romans already cultivated it — Nero reportedly ate it regularly in the belief that it strengthened the voice, which earned him the mocking nickname of leek-eater. To this day the leek is a national symbol of Wales, worn on clothing on St David's Day, and its popularity in northern European cuisine was built on the cold-hardiness thanks to which it supplied fresh vegetables in the middle of winter.
Uses
A bed vegetable with a long season, valuable especially in autumn and winter, when few other crops give a fresh harvest straight from the garden. In the kitchen it is the basis of soups and stocks, an ingredient of braised vegetables, salads and bakes. It can be harvested gradually throughout the winter, digging up as many plants as are needed at the time.
Trivia
- The white stem of the leek is not a varietal trait but the result of the gardener's work: it is created by progressively heaping soil around the plant, which cuts off the light and prevents the formation of the green pigment. The higher you earth it up, the longer the white part will be.
- The leek is one of the most frost-hardy vegetables — it overwinters in the ground without trouble and can be dug up in the middle of winter, provided the soil is not frozen rock-hard.
- It is the national symbol of Wales — the Welsh pin it to their clothing on St David's Day, and legend traces the custom to a battle in which leeks on helmets made it possible to tell friend from foe.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get a long, white leek stem?
The white part comes from the absence of light, so it has to be worked for with two operations. First, plant the transplants in deep holes made with a dibber (10–15 cm), which you do not fill with soil but simply flood with water. Second, earth the plants up several times over the summer, heaping soil around the stem ever higher — but never above the point where the leaves spread apart, because the soil will get inside the stem and the leek can no longer be cleaned properly.
Will the leek survive winter in the ground?
Yes — it is one of the most frost-hardy vegetables and in Polish conditions it overwinters in the bed without trouble. It can be harvested gradually throughout the winter, digging up as many plants as needed; the only problem is soil frozen rock-hard. It is worth mulching the bed with leaves or straw so the soil stays soft for longer.
Why is my leek as thin as a pencil?
Most often it is a matter of time and water: the leek has a very long growing season (5–7 months from sowing), so sowing too late simply gives it no chance to thicken. Add to that soil drying out in summer, a lack of feeding in July and August, and planting too densely — leeks set closer than every 15 cm compete with each other and stay narrow.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — LeeksInstitution / botanical garden
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