Lily

Lilium · Lily (EN) · Lilie (DE)

The lily (Lilium) is a striking bulbous plant with large, often fragrant flowers — one of the most spectacular summer-flowering perennials, also popular as a cut flower.

Full sun/Partial shade Medium watering USDA 4a–9a Toxic
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In short

  • Needs free-draining soil — bulbs rot in standing water.
  • Large flowers, often intensely fragrant (Oriental hybrids).
  • Plant deep — about three times the bulb's height.
  • DEADLY toxic to cats — even pollen and vase water.
  • Leave the leaves until they yellow — they nourish the bulb.

Botanical data

Family
Liliaceae (Liliaceae)
Height
0.6–1.5 m
Width
0.2–0.3 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Sandy
pH reaction
pH 6–7
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
June–August
Hardiness
USDA 4a–9a
Propagation
From bulbs / tubers, By division

Characteristics

A bulbous plant with a stiff, leafy stem topped by one or several large, six-petalled flowers in trumpet, bowl or turk's-cap shapes, in a very wide range of colours.

Growing and care

Watering

Needs free-draining soil — bulbs rot in standing water. Water moderately during growth and flowering.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

Potassium supports sturdy stems and intense flowering.

in spring and before flowering · nawóz fosforowo-potasowy

Planting

Free-draining, fertile soil; plant at about three times the bulb's height, on a free-draining sand cushion to protect against rot.

Timing: September–October or early spring · spacing 20–30 cm

Pruning

Remove spent flowers; leave stems and leaves until they yellow, as they nourish the bulb.

Timing: After flowering and in autumn. · Caution: Do not cut green stems right after flowering — this weakens the bulb.

Companion plants

Good companions

Low-growing ground-cover perennialsPractical observation

They shade the soil and cool the lily's bulbs, whose 'feet' like shade, while the flowers need sun.

Bad companions

Plants that require constantly moist soilPractical observation

Lily bulbs rot in the waterlogged substrate required by moisture-loving plants.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Bacterial soft rot

Infected fleshy organs — bulbs, tubers, storage roots and succulent stems — rot wet, turning into a slimy, watery, soft mass with a characteristic, unpleasant, putrid smell. The tissue disintegrates, and the skin often remains as a thin bag filled with decomposed flesh. The disease progresses rapidly in warmth and high humidity, especially in storage; it affects onion, garlic, tulip, daffodil, hyacinth and root vegetables. The first symptom is small, translucent, seemingly water-soaked spots that quickly turn brown and soften; at the site of infection the flesh becomes macerated — the bacteria break down the substances that cement the cell walls, so the tissue loses its cohesion and dissolves into a creamy-brown mush. In cross-section the boundary between healthy and diseased tissue is watery and blurred, and a cloudy, slimy ooze often seeps from the injury. In bulbs and the neck of bulbous plants the infection usually starts from the top or from a wound and descends deeper, producing a soft, slippery 'neck'; in potato, soft rot of the tubers links up with blackleg — the blackening, rotting base of the shoot. The bacterium itself does not form mycelium or a visible bloom — this distinguishes it from fungal rot — and the intense stench comes from secondary decomposition by other microorganisms. Symptoms progress fastest at temperatures above about 20°C, with poor ventilation and a film of water present on the surface of the organs.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild
Dogs Moderate
Cats Lethal Lilies are deadly toxic to cats — even pollen or vase water can trigger acute kidney failure.

History and origin

Lilies have been cultivated since antiquity — the Madonna lily (Lilium candidum) was already a symbol of purity in Minoan and Christian culture. The wealth of modern cultivars is the result of 20th-century hybrid breeding.

Uses

For perennial borders, ornamental gardens, containers, and as a cut flower. Because of its toxicity to cats, it is not recommended in households with these animals.

Trivia

  • Lilies are among the plants most dangerous to cats — contact with any part of the plant or with vase water risks fatal kidney failure.
  • Not everything called a 'lily' is a true lily — daylilies (Hemerocallis) or water lilies are entirely different plants.

Frequently asked questions

Are lilies dangerous to cats?

Yes, extremely — lilies of the genus Lilium are deadly toxic to cats. Even eating pollen, a leaf, or drinking vase water can trigger acute, often fatal kidney failure. They should be avoided in households with cats.

How deep should lily bulbs be planted?

Deep — about three times the bulb's height (usually 12-18 cm). Deep planting stabilises the tall stems and protects the bulbs from frost.

Why does my lily fall over?

Tall cultivars with heavy flowers may need staking. Deep planting and a site sheltered from strong wind also help.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/3/2025.

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