In short
- It forms no bulb — it stores reserves in fleshy, thick roots and a short rhizome.
- To flower it needs 6-8 weeks of cool (about 8-12 C), dry winter rest.
- All parts are poisonous (alkaloids, including lycorine) — to people, dogs and cats.
- A shade-loving plant — direct summer sun scorches its leaves.
- Long-lived and reluctant to be repotted — it flowers best in a tight pot.
- It blooms in late winter and early spring with an umbel of funnel-shaped, cinnabar-orange flowers.
Botanical data
- Family
- Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllidaceae)
- Height
- 0.4–0.6 m
- Width
- 0.4–0.6 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Position
- Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 6–6.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- February–April
- Hardiness
- USDA 9b–11a
- Propagation
- By division, From seed
Characteristics
The Natal lily forms a dense, fan-shaped rosette of 10-16 strap-shaped, dark-green, leathery leaves 4-6 cm wide and 40-60 cm long, growing alternately in two ranks from a short rhizome. Below ground there is no bulb — the plant stores water and reserves in fleshy, thick storage roots, which clearly sets it apart from most amaryllids such as daffodils and amaryllis. In late winter, after a period of cool rest, a strong, fleshy flower stalk 30-50 cm tall rises from the centre of the rosette, crowned by an umbel of 10-20 funnel-shaped flowers. A single flower reaches 5-8 cm across and has six perianth segments in a shade of cinnabar orange with a yellow-green throat; pure-yellow-flowered forms are also known. If pollination occurs, round, fleshy berries set after flowering and ripen to red over nearly a year. The plant grows slowly, stays evergreen all year round and does not shed its leaves; it reaches 40-60 cm tall and in time forms broad clumps from offsets at the base.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Citrina’
- A yellow-flowered form of the species (var. citrina) with pure-yellow flowers and a paler throat, without any orange tint. The rosette and habit are as in the type, and the berries ripen yellow rather than red. Prized by collectors and usually more expensive than the common orange variety.
- ‘Striata’
- A cultivar with ornamentally striped leaves — cream-yellow and green streaks run along the blade. Grown mainly for its decorative foliage; it grows more slowly than green-leaved forms, and the coloured leaves scorch more easily in the sun.
- ‘Vico Yellow’
- A famous yellow-flowered hybrid selected by Sir Peter Smithers, with large, wide-open flowers of a pure, deep yellow. One of the parents of many modern yellow Natal lilies.
Growing and care
Watering
In the growing season water moderately, letting the top layer of the medium dry out. During the cool winter rest (from late autumn for 6-8 weeks) withhold watering almost entirely — it is the dry cold that triggers the setting of the flower stalk. Water standing in the pot sleeve rots the fleshy roots.
Fertilizing
Withhold feeding during the cool winter rest; apply at a moderate concentration.
Planting
A permeable, humus-rich medium for flowering plants with added bark or perlite; a rather tight pot — the Natal lily flowers best in a small container.
Pruning
Cut the faded flower stalk at the base once it has dried out; remove yellowed, dead outer leaves.
Companion plants
Good companions
Grupowanie roślin znoszących półcień i chłodny, jasny spoczynek zimowy ułatwia zapewnienie wszystkim właściwych warunków w jednym pomieszczeniu.
Bad companions
Kliwia potrzebuje kilkutygodniowego chłodnego spoczynku zimą; trzymana stale w cieple z gatunkami ciepłolubnymi nie zawiązuje pędu kwiatowego.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
MealybugsInsects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.
Armoured and soft scale insectsImmobile, brown or yellowish shields (1-4 mm) attached to stems and the underside of leaves, especially along the veins. Easily mistaken for growths on the plant. They suck sap, causing yellowing and weakening, and excrete sticky honeydew. Common on figs, orchids and plants with tough leaves. The collective name covers two groups with different biology. Armoured scales (Diaspididae) have a hard waxy shield separate from the body, which can be prised off - beneath it emerges a tiny, legless and wingless female; they do not excrete honeydew. Soft scales (Coccidae) have a convex, cup-shaped cover fused with the body, and it is they that excrete it abundantly. Sticky honeydew - the domain of soft scales and other honeydew-producing scale insects, not of armoured scales - settles on the leaves and attracts sooty mould fungi (sooty mould, sooty blotch) as well as ants, which defend the colony against predators. The only mobile feeding stage is the crawler - a flat, tiny larva which, after hatching from beneath the mother's shield, disperses over the plant, then settles, inserts its stylet into the conducting tissues and loses the ability to move; adult females remain immobile for the rest of their lives. Males pupate and, as tiny, winged, short-lived insects, do not feed. In heated interiors the pest breeds all year round, producing several overlapping generations; outdoors usually 1-3 generations, and fertilised females or eggs hidden beneath the shield overwinter. Feeding symptoms are yellowing and premature leaf drop, dieback of shoots, stunting and weakening of the plant, and secondarily a black coating of sooty mould on leaves covered with honeydew. On fruit trees infested by San Jose scale (Comstockaspis perniciosa), reddish discolouration appears around the feeding sites, and heavily colonised branches die back. Because the shields are immobile and their colour blends into the bark and veins, an infestation is easily overlooked until honeydew appears or the plant is noticeably weakened - which is why regular inspection of the leaf undersides and shoot axils is key.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Moderate | All parts, especially the fleshy roots and berries, contain toxic alkaloids (including lycorine); ingestion causes vomiting, diarrhoea and drooling. |
| Dogs | Moderate | — |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
History and origin
The genus Clivia was described in 1828 by the English botanist John Lindley, who named it in honour of Charlotte Clive, Duchess of Northumberland, in whose collection one of the first specimens brought to Europe came into bloom. Lindley gave the plant the epithet miniata in 1854, describing it as Imantophyllum miniatum, and the Russian botanist Eduard Regel moved it to the genus Clivia in 1864. The plants come from the understorey of the moist, shady forests of eastern South Africa — the provinces of KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape — where they grow in leaf mould at the foot of trees, often on rocky slopes. In Victorian England the Natal lily quickly became a prized plant of drawing rooms and conservatories, tolerating dim light and cool, poorly heated interiors better than most exotics. In the 20th century it was bred intensively in Belgium, Japan, China and South Africa; Belgian hybrids with large, wide-open flowers became the foundation of modern cultivation. In Polish homes the Natal lily has for generations been handed down as an enduring "grandmother's plant" — a well-tended specimen lives several decades and flowers every year.
Uses
In Poland the Natal lily is grown solely as a houseplant — with heat requirements matching zones 9-11, it will not overwinter in the ground and does not tolerate frost. In summer it can be set out in a shady corner of the garden, on a balcony or terrace, but it must be brought indoors before nights drop close to zero. Its position should be bright but without direct sun — the Natal lily is a shade-loving plant, and harsh summer rays scorch its leaves; east- and north-facing windows are best. It is planted in a permeable, humus-rich medium for flowering plants with added bark or perlite, in a rather tight pot: the Natal lily flowers best when "squeezed", and frequent repotting and damage to its brittle, fleshy roots delays flowering by a year or two. It is repotted rarely, only when the roots begin to push the plant out of the pot, ideally just after flowering. The key to yearly flowering is the winter rest: from late autumn for 6-8 weeks the plant is kept cool (about 8-12 C), almost without watering, in a bright, unheated room — a cool bedroom, a stairwell or a cellar with a window. Only this cold triggers the setting of the flower stalk. Once the stalk reaches a dozen or so centimetres, the plant is moved to a warmer spot and watering is resumed. Because all parts of the plant, and especially the roots and berries, contain poisonous alkaloids, the Natal lily is kept out of reach of children and of cats and dogs, which readily nibble the strap-shaped leaves.
Trivia
- The species epithet miniata comes from the Latin minium — cinnabar, a bright red pigment — and refers to the colour of the flowers.
- The genus name Clivia was given in honour of Charlotte Clive, Duchess of Northumberland and governess of the future Queen Victoria.
- The Natal lily is one of the few amaryllids that forms no bulb but instead stores reserves in fleshy roots.
- The yellow-flowered form citrina, prized by collectors, is often considerably more expensive than the common orange variety.
Frequently asked questions
Why won't my Natal lily flower?
The most common cause is the lack of a cool winter rest. To set a flower stalk, the Natal lily needs 6-8 weeks at about 8-12 C, in a bright spot and almost without watering. Kept all year in a warm room, it only puts out more leaves. Flowering is also delayed by too deep a shade and by fresh repotting that damages the roots.
Does the Natal lily need repotting every year?
No — the Natal lily flowers best in a tight pot and tolerates repotting poorly. It is moved to a larger container only when the fleshy roots clearly push the plant out of the pot, usually once every few years, ideally just after flowering.
Is the Natal lily poisonous?
Yes. All parts of the plant, and especially the fleshy roots and red berries, contain toxic alkaloids (including lycorine). Ingestion causes vomiting, diarrhoea and drooling, so the plant should be kept out of reach of small children and of dogs and cats.
How should I water the Natal lily in winter?
During the cool rest (late autumn and early winter) watering is almost entirely withheld — just enough that the leaves do not wilt. Watering and feeding are resumed only once the flower stalk appears after the rest and the plant returns to a warmer position.
What should I do with the flower stalk after it fades?
If seeds are not wanted, the faded stalk is cut at the base once it dries out — setting berries costs the plant a great deal of energy. Leaving the fruit is possible but weakens the next flowering, and the seeds germinate and grow very slowly.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Clivia miniataInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: Clivia miniataInstitution / botanical garden
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