In short
- A bulbous houseplant that flowers in winter, usually 6-8 weeks after planting.
- Sold as "amaryllis," but it is the genus Hippeastrum - not the true Amaryllis belladonna.
- Flowers are huge (10-20 cm across), trumpet-shaped, 2-6 per scape.
- Requires a dormant period (cool and dry in autumn) in order to flower again.
- The whole plant, and especially the bulb, is poisonous - it contains alkaloids (including lycorine).
Botanical data
- Family
- Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllidaceae)
- Height
- 0.4–0.7 m
- Width
- 0.2–0.4 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Sandy
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- December–March
- Hardiness
- USDA 9a–11b
- Propagation
- From bulbs / tubers, From seed
Characteristics
Amaryllis grows from a large, spherical to pear-shaped bulb 6-12 cm across, built of fleshy, overlapping scales and topped with a short neck. From its interior emerges a thick, hollow flowering scape 40-70 cm tall, at the top of which develops an umbel usually composed of 2-6 flowers. A single flower is shaped like a broad trumpet or funnel; it is formed by three sepals and three petals of nearly equal color and size, and in large-flowered forms its diameter reaches 10-20 cm. The flowers often open before the leaves are fully grown - in many plants the scape appears on a completely leafless bulb. The leaves are linear, strap-shaped, dark green, 40-60 cm long, arranged in two rows, and reach full development only after flowering. The plant lives to a distinct seasonal rhythm: after winter flowering it builds leaves and nourishes the bulb through spring and summer, and in autumn it enters a dormant period during which it may shed its leaves. It is not evergreen and does not tolerate frost - with heat requirements corresponding to the warmer USDA zones, it will not survive winter in the ground in the Polish climate and is grown exclusively under cover. The flower color ranges through red, pink, white, salmon and orange, and many cultivars add bicolor patterns, stripes and white-edged petals.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Apple Blossom’
- One of the most popular and oldest commercial cultivars: large white-and-pink flowers, with softer pink veining and a lighter throat. A classic, often sold in sets of bulbs for forcing.
- ‘Red Lion’
- Intensely, uniformly red flowers of a velvety hue, 3-4 per sturdy scape. A very recognizable, "flagship" red cultivar forced for the Christmas season.
- ‘Minerva’
- Red flowers with a distinct white star in the center and a greenish throat, with strong color contrast. A large-flowered cultivar prized for its decorative petal markings.
- ‘Picotee’
- Pure white flowers with a narrow, sharply set-off red edging on the margin of each petal. A delicate, elegant cultivar with large flowers.
Growing and care
Watering
After planting the bulb, water sparingly until the flowering scape emerges; then water regularly through the flowering period and leaf growth. During dormancy (late summer-autumn) withhold watering almost entirely - constant moisture in cool conditions causes the bulb to rot.
Fertilizing
Feed only after flowering, in the leaf-building phase - this is when the bulb stores reserves for the next flowering. Do not fertilize during dormancy.
Planting
A pot only 2-4 cm wider than the bulb, with a drainage hole; permeable, humus-rich substrate. The bulb is sunk to about two-thirds of its height, leaving the upper part and the neck above the surface.
Pruning
The spent scape is cut off at the base once it withers, so the plant does not set seed and waste energy. The leaves are removed only when they yellow on their own before dormancy.
Companion plants
Good companions
Rośliny o zbliżonym rytmie pędzenia i wymaganiach można prowadzić razem na tym samym parapecie, choć każdą sadzi się do własnej doniczki.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
MealybugsInsects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Moderate | — |
| Dogs | Moderate | — |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
History and origin
The genus Hippeastrum comprises about 90 species from the tropical and subtropical regions of South America, mainly from Brazil, Peru and the Andean region. The genus was established in 1821 by the English clergyman and botanist William Herbert, who developed his treatment of it in his 1837 monograph of the Amaryllidaceae, in order to separate the American plants from the South African genus Amaryllis. Despite this separation, the misleading name "amaryllis," which is applied precisely to Hippeastrum, has persisted in the horticultural trade to this day. Modern houseplants are hybrids (Hippeastrum × hybridum) bred from crossing several species, carried on intensively since the 19th century, among other places in England and the Netherlands. Bulbs for the European market are today produced mainly in the Netherlands, South Africa and Brazil, and large bulbs prepared for forced flowering reach the shops in autumn, just before the winter season.
Uses
Amaryllis is grown above all as a winter-flowering houseplant, often forced specifically for Christmas - hence its popularity as a seasonal gift and as a bulb available in autumn in almost every supermarket. The bulb is planted from October to January, into a pot only 2-4 cm wider than the bulb, in a permeable, humus-rich substrate, sinking it to about two-thirds of its height and leaving the upper part and the neck above the surface. After planting, the plant is set in a bright, warm spot and watered sparingly until the scape appears; only then is it watered more generously. The flowers usually open 6-8 weeks after planting and last several weeks - longer in a cooler room and away from radiators. So that the plant blooms again the following year, the scape is cut off after flowering, and the bulb is fed and watered through spring and summer, keeping full leaf growth at a bright window or on a sheltered terrace. In late summer or autumn watering is reduced and the plant is moved for 8-12 weeks to a cool (about 12-15°C), dry resting place; only after this period is the bulb watered again, which triggers the next flowering. The plant is poisonous - the bulb contains alkaloids, including lycorine - so it is kept out of reach of children and pets.
Trivia
- The trade name "amaryllis" is a source of persistent confusion: the true Amaryllis is a small, South African genus (with the type species Amaryllis belladonna), while the houseplants are Hippeastrum from South America.
- The name Hippeastrum is sometimes translated as "knight's star" - from the Greek words for horseman and star.
- Large, well-nourished bulbs can send up two, and sometimes three, flowering scapes in a single season.
- The flowers often open on a completely leafless bulb, because the scape grows before the leaves.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between amaryllis and Hippeastrum?
They are the same plant. "Amaryllis" is the common, trade name for the garden amaryllis (Hippeastrum × hybridum). The true botanical amaryllis is a different genus - Amaryllis belladonna from South Africa - which is not sold as a winter potted bulb. In shops, the name "amaryllis" almost always refers to Hippeastrum.
Why won't my amaryllis flower again?
The most common cause is skipping the dormant period or under-nourishing the bulb. After flowering, the plant must build and keep its leaves in bright light through spring and summer and be fed regularly - that is when the bulb stores reserves. In late summer or autumn, watering must be reduced for 8-12 weeks and the plant moved to a cool, dry place; only resuming watering after dormancy triggers the next flowering.
How and when should I plant an amaryllis bulb?
Bulbs are planted from October to January, into a pot only a few centimeters wider than the bulb. The substrate should be permeable and humus-rich. The bulb is sunk to about two-thirds, leaving the upper part and the neck above the soil. After planting it is watered sparingly and set in a warm, bright spot; more generous watering begins only after the scape emerges. The flowers usually appear after 6-8 weeks.
Is amaryllis poisonous to cats and dogs?
Yes. The whole plant, and especially the bulb, contains poisonous alkaloids (including lycorine) and is considered toxic to dogs, cats and humans. Ingestion may cause drooling, vomiting, diarrhea and weakness. The plant and bulbs should be kept out of reach of animals and children, and if ingestion is suspected, contact a veterinarian.
What should I do with the plant after it finishes flowering?
When the flowers wilt, cut the scape at the base so the plant does not set seed, but leave the leaves - they nourish the bulb. Keep the plant on at a bright window, watering and feeding it regularly through spring and summer. Only before the dormant period, when the leaves yellow on their own, can they be removed and the bulb brought into a cool, dry resting phase.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO), KewDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Hippeastrum (amaryllis)Institution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: HippeastrumInstitution / botanical garden
- ASPCA — Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants: AmaryllisInstitution / botanical garden
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