In short
- A very long flowering period – from July to October.
- Easy, tolerant and exceptionally frost-hardy (zones 3a–9a).
- The dark, brown-black centre of the flower contrasts with the bright-yellow petals – hence the name black-eyed Susan.
- Strongly attracts bees, butterflies and other pollinators.
- Spreads by runners, forming broad clumps over time – a good ground-cover plant for the bed.
- Low-maintenance – it needs neither intensive fertilizing nor winter protection.
Botanical data
- Family
- Asteraceae (Asteraceae)
- Height
- 0.5–0.9 m
- Width
- 0.4–0.5 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich, Sandy
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- July–October
- Hardiness
- USDA 3a–9a
- Propagation
- By division, From seed, By runners
Characteristics
A clump-forming perennial with upright, roughly hairy shoots and dark-green, oval to lance-shaped leaves. The flower heads are capitula with elongated, bright-yellow to orange-yellow petals surrounding a raised, dark-brown to black centre made up of small tubular flowers.
Growing and care
Watering
It tolerates short periods of drought, but blooms best and most abundantly on moderately moist soil. A very tolerant plant that forgives watering mistakes.
Fertilizing
Undemanding – a small application of compost in spring is fully sufficient for abundant flowering.
Planting
Tolerates a wide range of soils; grows best on well-drained, moderately fertile soil in sun or light half shade.
Pruning
Spent flowers can be removed as they fade to prolong flowering; dry stems and flower heads are best left over winter as food for birds and ornament for the garden.
Companion plants
Good companions
A classic prairie-style naturalistic-garden combination – the overlapping flowering period and similar site requirements produce a durable, colour-contrasting composition.
A similar flowering period and requirements for fertile, moderately moist soil – the yellow-orange coneflower contrasts well with the pink-purple phlox in the bed.
Bad companions
The coneflower needs more regular soil moisture than typical plants of dry, sunny sites, which leads to a conflict in watering requirements.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | — |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
Rudbeckia fulgida was described at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries and quickly gained popularity in garden cultivation in Europe and North America thanks to its easy cultivation and long flowering. The popular cultivar 'Goldsturm', selected in Germany in the early 20th century, remains one of the most widely planted border perennials in the world.
Uses
For perennial beds, naturalistic and prairie gardens, edgings and as a ground cover thanks to its spread by runners. Good as a cut flower, valued for its long, autumn flowering period.
Trivia
- The genus name Rudbeckia was given by Carl Linnaeus in honour of his mentor, the Swedish botanist Olof Rudbeck.
- The coneflower is a close relative of the sunflower and the echinacea – all belong to the aster family and have a similar centre made up of small tubular flowers.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the orange coneflower bloom?
Very long – from July to October, which makes it one of the longest-blooming border perennials, filling the garden with colour when many other plants have already faded.
Is the orange coneflower invasive in the garden?
It spreads by runners and after a few years can form broad clumps, so it is worth cutting it back or dividing it from time to time if you want to limit its spread – it is not, however, an aggressively invasive plant on a landscape scale.
Is the orange coneflower frost-hardy?
Yes, it is very frost-hardy – it survives winters even in zone 3a, without the need for covering or additional winter protection in the Polish climate.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Rudbeckia fulgidaInstitution / botanical garden
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