In short
- White flower heads with a yellow centre, usually 7-10 cm across in trade cultivars — roughly twice the size of the wild oxeye daisy.
- Blooms from June to September; the peak falls in July and August, and systematic removal of spent heads prolongs flowering.
- Needs full sun and well-drained soil — losses are decided by wet winter ground, not by frost (zones 5a-9a).
- A short-lived perennial: the clump must be divided every two to three years, because its centre becomes woody, thins out and dies off.
- A hybrid bred by Luther Burbank in California, introduced to the trade in 1901.
Botanical data
- Family
- Asteraceae (Asteraceae)
- Height
- 0.3–1.2 m
- Width
- 0.3–0.6 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy, Sandy
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.5
- Moisture
- Dry, Moderate
- Bloom
- June–September
- Hardiness
- USDA 5a–9a
- Propagation
- By division, From seed
Characteristics
A perennial forming a dense, tufted rosette from which stiff, upright flowering stems rise in summer. The leaves are dark green and glossy — the basal ones spatulate, tapering into a stalk, those higher on the stem sessile, narrowly lanceolate and coarsely, irregularly toothed at the margin. The inflorescence is a flower head: what looks like a single flower consists of an outer ring of white ray florets and a yellow disc of tiny tubular florets filling the centre. In trade cultivars the heads usually measure 7-10 cm across and are borne singly at the tips of the stems — the simplest feature distinguishing them from the wild oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare), whose heads are 2.5-5 cm. The clump usually reaches 60-90 cm in height and 45-60 cm in width; dwarf cultivars stop at 30-40 cm and form correspondingly narrower clumps, while the tallest, such as Becky, reach 120 cm. The main peak of flowering falls in July and August, early cultivars start in June, and systematic removal of spent heads draws flowering out into September. The plant needs full sun — it tolerates partial shade, but its stems are floppier there and more inclined to lodge — and averagely fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. It tolerates drier sites and short spells of drought, and it also comes through frost well (zones 5a-9a), but it reacts very badly to wet, compacted winter ground: most winter losses come from a waterlogged root crown, not from low temperature. The flowering stems die off after the season, but the ground-level rosette of leaves often stays green through a mild winter and spring growth starts from it. The hybrid's short lifespan is characteristic: after two to three years the centre of the clump becomes woody and thins out, which is why regular division is a maintenance task here, not merely a means of propagation. It is sometimes confused with the common chamomile, which, however, has much smaller heads and pinnately divided, thread-like leaves, and with the garden chrysanthemum — the latter blooms only in autumn and has lobed, distinctly aromatic leaves.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Becky’
- Named Perennial Plant of the Year 2003 by the American Perennial Plant Association. The tallest of the widely grown cultivars — 90-120 cm — with stiff stems needing no support and glossy, dark green leaves that tolerate heat and high air humidity well. Single white flower heads about 7.5-10 cm across; it blooms from July to September, that is later than most garden daisies, which shifts and extends the border season.
- ‘Alaska’
- One of the oldest cultivars still in commerce. Height 60-90 cm, stiff stems needing no support, single heads about 7-8 cm with white ray florets and a yellow centre.
- ‘Snowcap’
- A low, compact cultivar, within 30-40 cm, with single white heads. It suits the front of the border, the rock garden and containers; it needs no support.
- ‘Wirral Supreme’
- A double cultivar: white heads with a short, crested centre, on tall stems, flowering later than the single forms. The built-up centre of the flower makes it of little use to pollinators.
- ‘Banana Cream’
- Semi-double flowers, about 10 cm across, open lemon-yellow and fade in time to a creamy white. A compact cultivar, about 40-45 cm, with a long flowering period — one of the few garden daisies that are not white.
Growing and care
Watering
An established clump tolerates drier ground and short spells of drought, but flowers most freely with moderate moisture. The crucial factor is the reverse condition: the soil must be dry in winter — constantly wet, cold ground at the root crown leads to rot and is the most common cause of losses.
Fertilizing
Undemanding — a layer of compost at the start of the growing season is enough. An excess of nitrogen gives lush leaves, floppy stems prone to lodging and shortens the life of the clump.
Planting
Averagely fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. On heavy, compacted ground, mix the soil with coarse sand or gravel and compost before planting — improving drainage matters more here than feeding.
Pruning
Cut spent heads singly just above the nearest leaf — this prolongs flowering and limits self-seeding. After the whole clump has faded, cut the flowering stems back low, just above the ground-level rosette of leaves; this spares the plant the energy spent on seeds and extends the life of the clump.
Companion plants
Good companions
Te same wymagania — pełne słońce i przepuszczalna gleba — oraz pokrywający się termin kwitnienia; biel koszyczków złocienia rozjaśnia nasycone róże jeżówki w rabacie preriowej.
Identyczne stanowisko i podobny pokrój kępy; rudbekia przejmuje kwitnienie w drugiej połowie lata i przedłuża sezon dekoracyjności rabaty po przekwitnięciu złocienia.
Niska, rozłożysta kocimiętka lubi to samo suche, słoneczne stanowisko i zasłania ogałacającą się z czasem dolną część pędów złocienia.
Bad companions
Funkia wymaga cienia i stale wilgotnej gleby — dwóch warunków, które złocieniowi odbierają kwitnienie i sprzyjają zimowej zgniliźnie szyi korzeniowej.
Mięta rozrasta się agresywnie podziemnymi rozłogami i w dwa–trzy sezony zarasta kępę, która i tak jest krótkowieczna i wymaga wolnej przestrzeni na podział.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The first symptom is a sudden wilting and drying of leaves on individual branches or on one side of the crown, while the rest of the plant appears healthy. A cross-section of an infected shoot reveals a brownish or greenish discolouration of the wood — the vascular bundles clogged by the fungus, which can no longer conduct water. The disease progresses over successive years, affecting an ever-larger part of the crown and leading to the gradual death of the plant. Maples (especially Japanese maple), catalpa and many other trees, shrubs and perennials are particularly susceptible. The disease takes two forms: an 'acute' form, in which a branch or the whole plant dies rapidly within a few weeks, and a 'chronic' form — a slow decline spread over several seasons, with smaller, paler leaves, marginal scorching of the blades (resembling sunburn) and premature autumn colouring on infected shoots. The sectoral, one-sided distribution of symptoms is the hallmark of Verticillium wilt above all on woody plants — the part of the crown supplied by the clogged vessels dies off. The discolouration of the wood is best seen just under the bark as longitudinal streaks, and in cross-section as an interrupted ring; in maples it is often olive-green. Symptoms intensify in heat and during drought, when the demand for water exceeds the capacity of the damaged bundles. On herbaceous plants (dahlia, aster, chrysanthemum, tomato, potato, strawberry) one observes wilting and yellowing of the lower leaves, stunting and one-sided (half-blade) yellowing of the leaf — on these species, however, the symptom picture alone is unreliable for differentiation, because one-sided yellowing may also be caused by Fusarium wilt. The vascular discolouration by itself is not conclusive — a definitive diagnosis requires laboratory isolation of the pathogen.
Septoria leaf spotNumerous small, round spots appear on the leaves with a lighter, greyish centre and a darker, brown margin. Within the spots tiny black dots are visible – pycnidia, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, which distinguishes this disease from other leaf spots. The infection progresses from the lower, oldest leaves upwards; with heavy infection the spots merge, the leaves yellow, dry out and drop prematurely, weakening the plant. Affected plants include tomato, currant, phlox and many perennials. The spots are usually 2–5 mm across; the decisive identifying sign is the dark pycnidia at their centre – best seen through a hand lens, and in high humidity exuding whitish 'tendrils' of spores. Leaves densely peppered with spots look as if dusted. The disease is favoured by warm (about 20–25°C), humid weather and water lingering on the leaves for a long time (rain, dew, overhead watering). On tomato the infection is confined almost exclusively to the leaves and leaf stalks – the fruit usually stays healthy – but the loss of the photosynthetic apparatus leads to smaller fruit and exposes it to sunscald.
Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | Not counted among poisonous plants. In people allergic to the aster family, contact with the sap may cause skin irritation. |
| Dogs | Mild | Eating a larger amount of leaves or flowers may cause mild irritation of the digestive tract — vomiting, diarrhoea and drooling. |
| Cats | Mild | As in dogs — mild gastrointestinal upset is possible after eating parts of the plant. |
| Horses | Mild | — |
History and origin
The Shasta daisy has no natural range — it is a hybrid bred in the garden. It was created by the American breeder Luther Burbank (1849-1926) in California, who devoted seventeen years to the work: from sowing oxeye daisy seed in 1884 on a newly acquired property in Santa Rosa, through further selection at the Gold Ridge experimental farm in Sebastopol, to the introduction of the hybrids to sale in 1901. The starting point was a cross of the common oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) with the Pyrenean L. maximum, and then with the Portuguese L. lacustre. The resulting seedlings had large heads but a colour more cream than pure white, so Burbank pollinated them with pollen of the Japanese Nipponanthemum nipponicum, a species with small, snow-white flowers; only the offspring from crossing these hybrids among themselves gave the desired white on strong, stiff stems. The novelty went on sale under the name "Shasta daisy," after the Californian Mount Shasta, whose snow cap was meant to match the colour of the flowers. The botanical naming stabilised much later: for decades the plants were described and sold as Chrysanthemum maximum, and order was brought only by the separation of the genus Leucanthemum from the broadly conceived genus Chrysanthemum. In strictly botanical terms the name L. × superbum covers hybrids of L. maximum and L. lacustre, while the garden daisies in the trade descend from Burbank's multi-stage selection described above. The cultivars returned to Europe quickly and entered the canon of cottage-garden borders and cut-flower growing.
Uses
The basic use is the perennial border and the cottage-style garden, where the white flower heads act as a neutral link between the saturated colours of their neighbours. Cultivars 60-120 cm tall are planted in the middle plane of the border, in groups of 3-5, at a spacing of 30-60 cm depending on vigour; looser spacing improves air movement and limits leaf spot. Dwarf cultivars, reaching 30-40 cm, suit the front of the border, the rock garden and containers — in a pot, however, drainage must be watched especially closely, because waterlogging of the roots is easier there than in the ground. Good partners are perennials with the same requirements and overlapping flowering: purple coneflower, black-eyed Susan and catmint, as well as ornamental grasses, which loosen the stiff rhythm of the clumps. Low perennials planted at the front have an added job — they screen the lower part of the stems, which becomes bare over time. By choosing cultivars with different flowering times — early ones from June and late ones, such as Becky, flowering from July to September — one can extend the presence of the white heads in the border across the whole season. The Shasta daisy is among the most durable perennial cut flowers: the stems are cut in the morning, when the flowers are fully open, removing the leaves from the submerged part of the stem. Flowers with an exposed centre are visited by butterflies, bees and hoverflies; double cultivars, with a built-up disc, are far less valuable to pollinators, so in insect-friendly plantings it is better to reach for single forms. Three tasks matter in seasonal care: ongoing removal of spent heads (prolongs flowering and limits self-seeding), cutting back the flowering stems after they fade, and dividing the clump every two to three years, best in early spring. Neglecting division is the most common cause of disappointment with this perennial — after a few seasons flowering weakens and the centre of the clump dies off.
Trivia
- The genus name Leucanthemum comes from the Greek words leukos (white) and anthemon (flower).
- The trade name "Shasta daisy" commemorates the Californian Mount Shasta — Burbank chose it for the snowy whiteness of the petals.
- The epithet superbum means "superb" in Latin; it refers to the size of the flower heads, which greatly exceeds that of the parent species.
- In older catalogues and horticultural literature the same plant appears as Chrysanthemum maximum; the name changed after the genus Leucanthemum was separated from the genus Chrysanthemum.
- What looks like a single flower is in fact a flower head: the white "petals" are separate ray florets, and the yellow centre is several hundred tiny tubular florets.
Frequently asked questions
How does the Shasta daisy differ from the wild daisy of the meadow?
The wild daisy is the oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) — a meadow plant with heads 2.5-5 cm across, flowering mainly in May and June, spreading by runners and self-seeding freely. The Shasta daisy is a garden hybrid: it has heads usually 7-10 cm, stiffer stems, darker and glossy leaves, blooms later (from June to September) and keeps to a compact clump. In practice the size of the flower and the flowering time settle it fastest.
Why did my Shasta daisies die out after two or three seasons?
Partly this is the natural course — the Shasta daisy is a short-lived perennial, and the centre of the clump becomes woody and dies off after two to three years. The second, more common cause of sudden losses is waterlogging: on heavy, poorly drained soil the root crown rots in winter, when the ground is cold and constantly wet. This is prevented by improving drainage before planting, avoiding thick mulch right at the root crown and dividing the clump regularly.
When and how should the Shasta daisy be divided?
Every two to three years, best in early spring when the young leaves are starting, or in early autumn right after flowering. The clump is dug up whole, the woody, dying centre is discarded, and only the vigorous pieces from the edge are replanted — each with several buds and its own roots. Division here is a maintenance task: without it, flowering weakens from year to year.
Is the daisy bought in a pot, often trained as a standard, the same plant?
Usually not. The rounded daisies sold in pots and trained as standards are most often Argyranthemum frutescens — a subshrub from the Canary Islands, not frost-hardy in our climate, treated as a seasonal plant or overwintered in a cool, bright room. The Shasta daisy is a hardy border perennial that overwinters in the ground in zones 5a-9a.
Why do the stems flop and do they need staking?
Lodging has three typical causes: too shady a site, an excess of nitrogen and a tall cultivar planted in a spot without air movement. More effective than staking is choosing a cultivar with stiff stems — for example Becky or Alaska, described as needing no support — together with sparing feeding. Dwarf cultivars have practically no such problem.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Leucanthemum × superbumDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder — Leucanthemum × superbumInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder — Leucanthemum × superbum 'Becky'Institution / botanical garden
- RHS — Leucanthemum × superbumInstitution / botanical garden
- Luther Burbank Home & Gardens — Shasta DaisyInstitution / botanical garden
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