In short
- Flowers earliest of all fruit trees, as early as the end of March — frosts destroy the flowers in many years.
- Fruits irregularly: in Polish conditions one can realistically count on a good crop roughly every 2–3 years.
- Likes well-drained, warm soils rich in calcium — as one of the few fruit trees it tolerates a slightly alkaline reaction well; it does not, however, tolerate standing water, which leads to apoplexy (the sudden death of the tree).
- Prune only in summer, after harvest — winter pruning risks gummosis and bacterial canker.
- Most cultivars are self-fertile, so a second cultivar is not necessary, although it improves the crop.
- The seeds inside the stones contain a lot of amygdalin — they must not be eaten raw.
Botanical data
- Family
- Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
- Height
- 3–6 m
- Width
- 3–6 m
- Habit
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Sandy, Loamy, Chalky, Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 6.5–7.8
- Moisture
- Dry, Moderate
- Bloom
- March–April
- Hardiness
- USDA 5a–9a
- Propagation
- From cuttings, From seed
Characteristics
A tree with a broad, spreading, fairly low crown and red-brown bark that cracks with age. The leaves are the key to identifying the species: broadly ovate to almost round, with a heart-shaped base and a short-pointed tip, on long stalks — quite unlike the narrow, lanceolate leaves of the peach. The flowers are white to pale pink, almost sessile, and open on bare shoots before the leaves, giving the characteristic effect of flowering, leafless branches. The fruit is a velvety drupe, orange with a reddish blush, with a stone that is smooth and separates easily from the flesh — unlike the deeply furrowed stone of the peach.
Growing and care
Watering
The apricot withstands drought better than the peach, but does not tolerate standing water at all. Disturbances of the water balance and root diseases on heavy, waterlogged soils are one of the causes of so-called apricot apoplexy — the sudden death of an apparently healthy tree within a few weeks.
Fertilizing
Sparingly. Excess nitrogen prolongs shoot growth into late summer, lowers their winter hardiness and markedly aggravates gummosis and bacterial canker — and these are the main causes of apricot dieback in Polish gardens.
Planting
A well-drained, warm soil rich in calcium — the apricot is one of the few fruit trees that does well on a slightly alkaline substrate. An airy position, never in a hollow (a frost pocket). A paradox worth knowing: the warmest, south-facing wall can be a bad choice — it hastens flowering and increases the frost risk, whereas a cooler north or east aspect delays flowering by a few days and can be safer.
Pruning calendar
Pruning group: Fruiting and ornamental stone fruit (Prunus) — summer pruning
What and how to cut
Prune on a warm, dry day from late spring through summer (after flowering or after harvest); remove dead, diseased and crowded shoots, and keep the crown open.
Only in summer, right after harvest (July–August).
What not to do
Don't prune in autumn or winter — that's the main route of infection for silver leaf and bacterial canker.
Companion plants
Good companions
Both species flower very early and need the same warm position sheltered from wind — in the garden it is worth grouping them together in the best-protected spot.
Planted in the tree circle, its strong scent traditionally deters aphids feeding on the young shoots of the apricot.
It has almost identical requirements — full sun, dry, well-drained, calcareous soil — so it will fill the apricot's tree circle without conflict, while attracting pollinators at the same time.
Bad companions
Species of the genus Prunus are very sensitive to juglone — an allelopathic compound released by the roots of black walnut, inhibiting their growth and leading to dieback.
Keeping the substrate permanently wet in the apricot's tree circle favours root diseases and apoplexy — the sudden death of the tree. The apricot needs a well-drained and rather dry soil.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
In spring the young leaves become puckered, thickened and curled, taking on a red or yellow-green colour with blistered bulges. Heavily infected leaves gradually become covered with a white-grey coating of spores, turn brown and drop prematurely. Weakened trees set fewer fruit, grow more weakly and are more prone to frost damage. The first symptoms appear just after the buds open — the leaf blade is thick, stiff and brittle, and its surface unevenly bulged, because the fungus stimulates the leaf cells into excessive, irregular divisions. The colour ranges from pale pink and red to purple; over time the diseased areas turn grey and become covered with a delicate, white-grey coating — this is a layer of spore-bearing sacs (the fruiting of the fungus) on the leaf surface. The symptoms are not limited to the leaves: young shoots may also be affected (they thicken, shorten and become distorted) as well as the fruitlets (deformed, with warty, cracking outgrowths). After the first, diseased flush of leaves has fallen, the tree usually puts out a second, now healthy flush, which can be misleading — the infection is a single, early-spring event — but this repeated leafing out exhausts the tree's reserves. The disease affects peach and nectarine, and more rarely apricot or almond. When severe and recurring over several seasons it leads to weakening, poor cropping, dieback of shoots and increased susceptibility to frost.
Brown rot (Monilinia)On pome and stone fruit, brown, enlarging rot spots appear, on which concentrically arranged, grey-beige cushions of spores form. Infected fruit rot, dry out and mummify, often remaining on the tree until the next season. In spring the fungus also infects blossoms and short shoots, causing them to die back and killing the branch tips. The disease has two distinct phases. Spring blossom and twig blight (most often Monilinia laxa on stone fruit — sour cherry, sweet cherry, plum, apricot) begins on the blossoms, which turn brown, wilt and dry out without dropping; the infection enters through the stigma and style into the short shoot, girdles it and causes whole shoots to die back, with withered leaves hanging as if scorched — hence the misleading resemblance to frost damage. On stone fruit, infected shoots often exude gum (gummosis) and develop small, cracked bark cankers. The summer-to-autumn brown rot of the fruit (mainly Monilinia fructigena on apple and pear) develops on ripening fruit: the rot spot quickly engulfs the whole fruit, the flesh turns brown and softens, and characteristic, concentrically arranged rings of cream-beige cushions of conidial spores grow out on the surface. In cool conditions (including in storage), the fruit may take the form of hard, black glossy mummies lacking sporulation (so-called black rot). Mummified fruit hanging on the tree and Monilinia cankers on the shoots are the main source of spores in the following season.
Plum pox (Sharka)The disease attacks plum, apricot and peach, along with other species of the genus Prunus. Pale, chlorotic rings, spots and streaks appear on the leaves along the veins, most clearly visible in spring during cool weather. Depressions, discolouration and deformations form on the fruit, and the flesh beneath is often discoloured and gummy with an impaired flavour. Infected fruit frequently drop prematurely, so the crop loses its market and eating value. The leaf symptoms also take the form of vein clearing along the veins and irregular mottling; they are strongest in spring, often fade (become masked) during hot summers and return the following season, which makes diagnosis difficult. The severity of symptoms depends on the strain of the virus and the susceptibility of the cultivar - ranging from almost symptomless forms to severe deformations. On plum fruit, dark, bluish rings and spots as well as depressions are visible; in apricot, characteristic diagnostic rings and spots also appear on the stone (endocarp), which is one of the more reliable identifying features. In peach, colour breaking of the flower petals (paler streaks) is additionally seen. Freshly infected trees can remain symptomless throughout the season, so reliable confirmation is provided only by laboratory testing (the ELISA serological test or molecular RT-PCR).
Bacterial canker of stone fruitSunken, necrotic wounds (cankers) form on the trunk and branches, from which – especially in spring – amber gum oozes (gummosis). The bark over the wounds dies and cracks, and infected buds and short shoots fail to break or die in spring, so whole sections of the crown dry out. Small, brown, watery spots may appear on the leaves and fall out of the blade ('shot-hole'). The disease affects stone-fruit trees – sour cherry, sweet cherry, plum, peach and apricot – and when it girdles a branch it kills it. The cause is two bacterial pathovars — Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae and pv. morsprunorum — with similar symptoms that cannot be told apart with the naked eye. A characteristic early symptom is the dying of buds and flowers in spring (so-called blossom blast): buds turn brown and fail to open, and individual branches suddenly wilt and dry out, holding their browned leaves for a long time. The gum oozing from the cankers is glassy to amber and appears most abundantly in spring and early summer, after the sap starts to flow; in high summer the ooze usually stops. When the bark is cut at the edge of a canker, the tissue beneath is often watery, rusty-brown, with a sour, fermenting smell (typical of pv. syringae). The leaf spots are at first small, angular, watery and surrounded by a lighter halo; their dead centres crumble away, producing a 'shot-hole' effect. The symptoms are easily confused with frost damage to the bark and with fungal shoot dieback (brown rot) and fungal shot-hole of the leaves (Wilsonomyces carpophilus) — the key then is the season of peak activity and the presence of fungal sporulation. The disease intensifies in cool, wet weather in spring and autumn; in summer, in warmth and drought, the bacterium is least active.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Winter mothA moth with marked sexual dimorphism: the male has grey-brown, finely banded wings with a span of about 25 mm, whereas the female is practically wingless and flightless and therefore climbs up the trunk in autumn to lay its eggs in the crown. In spring green looper caterpillars with pale lengthwise stripes hatch, moving with the characteristic "looping" gait (arching the rear of the body) and eating the developing buds, young leaves and fruitlets, often webbing them together with threads. It feeds on apple, pear, plum, cherry and many deciduous trees and shrubs. The mature caterpillar reaches about 25 mm in length and is yellow-green with a darker dorsal line and pale stripes along its sides; as a typical looper (Geometridae) it has only two pairs of prolegs at the end of the abdomen, hence its looping gait. The eggs are laid singly near the buds and in bark crevices, where they overwinter, and just before the spring hatch they change colour from greenish to orange-red. The species has one generation a year: the moths fly in late autumn (October-December, which is the origin of the Polish name "przedzimek", meaning before-winter), on cool, frost-free evenings, and the flightless females then climb the trunks. The spring hatch of the caterpillars is closely synchronised with bud burst (usually April); after about 4-6 weeks of feeding the caterpillars lower themselves to the ground on threads and pupate shallowly in the soil, where the pupa spends the summer. The signs of feeding are holed and ragged young leaves, eaten flower and leaf buds, and deformed fruit covered with corky scars that develop from the damaged fruitlets; under heavy pressure the caterpillars can almost strip the crown bare.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | The flesh of the fruit is fully edible and safe. Beware of the seeds hidden inside the stones: they contain large amounts of amygdalin, which releases hydrogen cyanide in the body. EFSA warns that even a few raw apricot kernels can cause symptoms of poisoning in an adult, and in a child one is enough. Apricot kernels sold as “vitamin B17” or “laetrile” do not cure cancer and are dangerous. |
| Dogs | Mild | The hazard is chewed stones and leaves; the flesh is safe. A whole stone swallowed by a dog also risks obstructing the digestive tract. |
| Cats | Mild | The risk concerns mainly chewed stones and leaves. |
| Horses | Moderate | Wilting leaves of plants in the genus Prunus release particularly large amounts of hydrogen cyanide — prunings must not be thrown onto pasture. |
History and origin
The apricot comes from China and Central Asia, where it was cultivated for millennia, and in the valleys of Central Asia it remains to this day the mainstay of local fruit growing and dried fruit production. It reached the Mediterranean world through Persia and Armenia — and it was Armenia that the Romans mistakenly took for its homeland, entrenching the error in the scientific name Prunus armeniaca. In Poland the apricot was for centuries a rarity of manor and monastery gardens; its wider cultivation by amateurs became possible only thanks to cultivars with a later flowering time.
Uses
For home gardens in the warmer regions of the country, in the best-sheltered and airy positions — only with the realistic assumption that the crop will not be annual. The fruits are eaten raw and processed into jams, preserves, liqueurs and dried fruit. Flowering on bare shoots, the apricot is one of the first and most striking accents of early spring in the garden.
Trivia
- The species name armeniaca is a historical mistake — the Romans thought the apricot came from Armenia, whereas its homeland is China and Central Asia.
- The apricot is most easily distinguished from the peach by leaf and stone: the apricot has broad, almost heart-shaped leaves and a smooth stone; the peach — narrow, lanceolate leaves and a deeply furrowed stone.
- Apricot flowers die at around −2 °C, which is why in cooler regions it is deliberately planted on the north side of a building — the cooler position delays flowering by a few days and can be the salvation of the crop.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the apricot flower but not fruit?
In Polish conditions frosts are almost always to blame. The apricot flowers earliest of all fruit trees — as early as the end of March — and open flowers die at around −2 °C. Added to this is the absence of bee flight in cool weather (below about 12 °C the flowers remain unpollinated) and the freezing of flower buds during the thaw-frost cycle typical of early spring. The lack of a second pollinating cultivar is usually not the cause, because most apricot cultivars are self-fertile. Realistically: a good crop happens in Poland roughly every 2–3 years.
Where should an apricot be planted so that it fruits more often?
The position should be warm and sheltered from wind, but airy — never in a hollow, where on windless nights cold air flows down and stagnates. Counter-intuitively, the warmest south wall can be a poor choice: it hastens flowering and increases the frost risk. A north or east aspect delays flowering by a few days, which is often enough for the flowers to survive. The soil must be well-drained, warm and rich in calcium. The biggest difference, however, is made by choosing a late-flowering cultivar.
Are apricot stones poisonous?
The seeds hidden inside the stones contain large amounts of amygdalin, which releases hydrogen cyanide in the body. The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) assessed that a safe single portion for an adult is about three small raw kernels, while for a small child even one may be too many. Eating the kernels as a supposed anti-cancer remedy under the name “vitamin B17” or “laetrile” is particularly dangerous — there is no evidence of efficacy, but there are documented poisonings. The flesh of the fruit itself is of course completely safe.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Prunus armeniaca (apricot)Institution / botanical garden
- EFSA — Ocena ryzyka związanego z obecnością glikozydów cyjanogennych w pestkach moreliInstitution / botanical garden
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