Boston fern

Nephrolepis exaltata · Boston fern (EN) · Schwertfarn (DE)

The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is a popular potted fern with arching, pinnate fronds, prized for its lush habit and tolerance of shade.

Partial shade/Shade High watering USDA 9a–11b
Watering calculator

In short

  • Requires high air humidity and a constantly moist substrate.
  • Prefers partial shade and shade — does not tolerate direct sun.
  • Browning of the leaflets is usually the result of dry air.
  • Non-toxic — safe for children and animals.
  • Excellent for bathrooms and kitchens with higher humidity.
  • Does not flower — it reproduces by spores, whose round sori form two rows close to the margin of the leaflets.
  • Reaches 40–90 cm in height with a spread of up to 1.2 m — it needs free space around the container.
  • Sensitive to a saline substrate: feed with a weak solution, preferably using soft water or rainwater.

Botanical data

Family
Nephrolepidaceae (Nephrolepidaceae)
Height
0.4–0.9 m
Width
0.5–1.2 m
Habit
Cascading
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Partial shade, Shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Peaty
pH reaction
pH 5–6.5
Moisture
Moist
Bloom
Hardiness
USDA 9a–11b
Propagation
By division, By runners

Characteristics

A fern with dense, arching, pinnate leaves (fronds) made up of numerous small leaflets. It spreads by runners, forming lush, cascading clumps. The fronds are once-pinnate. In cultivation the clump reaches 40–90 cm in height and spreads to 1.2 m across, while the individual arching fronds are longer still and hang below the rim of the container — so the plant needs free space on every side. Young fronds unfurl from the centre of the rosette as coiled croziers, gradually straightening out and colouring up to a bright, vivid green. The short, erect rhizome sends out thin, wiry, scale-covered runners that form new rosettes at their tips — hence the ease of propagation by division. As a fern it does not flower and sets no seed: it reproduces by spores, whose round sori form two rows close to the margin of the leaflet, on either side of the midrib, each covered by a kidney-shaped indusium. It requires diffused light (partial shade, shade) — direct sun scorches the leaflets, while full darkness slows growth. The substrate should be constantly slightly moist, humus-rich and acidic (pH 5.0–6.5), never dried out or waterlogged. High air humidity is crucial; the plant also copes poorly with a saline substrate, which is why it is fed with a weak solution. Growth rate is moderate and the foliage is evergreen all year round.

Popular cultivars

‘Bostoniensis’
The historic original cultivar from which most of today's Boston ferns descend. Fronds once-pinnate, long, arching and softly pendent — the classic choice for hanging containers.
‘Bostoniensis Compacta’
A compact, lower form of the original cultivar with shorter fronds that still arch. It forms a denser and more regular clump than the type, so it fits where the classic Boston fern is already too large — including smaller hanging containers.
‘Teddy Junior’
A low, dense cultivar with wavy leaflet margins, which makes the fronds look curly. It grows more slowly and stays compact — good for small interiors and bathrooms.
‘Green Lady’
A cultivar with dense, upright and slightly twisted fronds forming a regular, dome-shaped clump. Chosen where a more upright than cascading habit is needed.
‘Fluffy Ruffles’
An older cultivar with stiff, upright, doubly pinnate fronds of a ruffled, lacy appearance. The clump is denser and more bristling than in the original form.

Growing and care

Watering

Requires a constantly moist substrate and high air humidity. Dry air causes the leaflets to brown and drop — misting is worthwhile.

In summer every ~3 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Sensitive to salinity — feed with a weak solution.

every 4 weeks during the growing season · nawóz do roślin zielonych w niskim stężeniu

Planting

A light, humus-rich, acidic substrate that retains moisture; a pot with drainage.

Timing: repot in spring, once the roots fill the pot

Pruning

Remove browned and withered leaves at the base to encourage new growth.

Timing: As needed. · Caution: Do not let the root ball dry out completely.

Companion plants

Good companions

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)Practical observation

Similar requirements — partial shade and high air humidity; they grow well together in a bathroom.

Bad companions

Succulents and cactiPractical observation

They require dry air and infrequent watering — the opposite of the moisture-loving fern.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Armoured and soft scale insects

Immobile, brown or yellowish shields (1-4 mm) attached to stems and the underside of leaves, especially along the veins. Easily mistaken for growths on the plant. They suck sap, causing yellowing and weakening, and excrete sticky honeydew. Common on figs, orchids and plants with tough leaves. The collective name covers two groups with different biology. Armoured scales (Diaspididae) have a hard waxy shield separate from the body, which can be prised off - beneath it emerges a tiny, legless and wingless female; they do not excrete honeydew. Soft scales (Coccidae) have a convex, cup-shaped cover fused with the body, and it is they that excrete it abundantly. Sticky honeydew - the domain of soft scales and other honeydew-producing scale insects, not of armoured scales - settles on the leaves and attracts sooty mould fungi (sooty mould, sooty blotch) as well as ants, which defend the colony against predators. The only mobile feeding stage is the crawler - a flat, tiny larva which, after hatching from beneath the mother's shield, disperses over the plant, then settles, inserts its stylet into the conducting tissues and loses the ability to move; adult females remain immobile for the rest of their lives. Males pupate and, as tiny, winged, short-lived insects, do not feed. In heated interiors the pest breeds all year round, producing several overlapping generations; outdoors usually 1-3 generations, and fertilised females or eggs hidden beneath the shield overwinter. Feeding symptoms are yellowing and premature leaf drop, dieback of shoots, stunting and weakening of the plant, and secondarily a black coating of sooty mould on leaves covered with honeydew. On fruit trees infested by San Jose scale (Comstockaspis perniciosa), reddish discolouration appears around the feeding sites, and heavily colonised branches die back. Because the shields are immobile and their colour blends into the bark and veins, an infestation is easily overlooked until honeydew appears or the plant is noticeably weakened - which is why regular inspection of the leaf undersides and shoot axils is key.

Mealybugs

Insects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.

Fungus gnats

Small, dark gnats (2–4 mm) flying around pots and scurrying across the surface of the substrate. The adults are a nuisance, but the real damage is done by their larvae in the soil, feeding on the roots and the base of the stems of young plants. A constantly moist, humus-rich substrate favours their development — the classic result of overwatering houseplants. Adult fungus gnats are delicate, mosquito-like flies with a slender, dark grey body, long, beaded antennae and a single pair of smoky wings; they fly clumsily in short bursts, readily settle on the surface of the substrate and on window panes, and when disturbed rise up in a little cloud. They themselves do not damage plants — they neither pierce nor suck sap — but their presence is a reliable sign that larvae are developing in the substrate. The larvae are translucent, whitish, legless and elongated (up to 5–6 mm), with a distinct, glossy black head capsule — it is this black head that distinguishes them from other soil organisms. They feed mainly on dead organic matter, fungal mycelium and algae, but at high densities they gnaw on young roots, root hairs and the base of stems. The signs of their feeding are wilting and stunted growth of seedlings and young potted plants, yellowing, poor rooting and, in extreme cases, seedlings toppling over and dying off where they have been chewed at the base. The wounds inflicted by the larvae are also entry points for infection, and the larvae and adults themselves can carry the spores of soil pathogens (including Pythium, Fusarium, Botrytis), linking the pest problem with root-rot diseases. The development cycle (egg → larva → pupa → adult) takes about 3–4 weeks in warmth and shortens at high temperatures; a female lays several dozen to over a hundred eggs on the moist surface of the substrate, and in a heated home or greenhouse the generations overlap throughout the year, so that with constant overwatering the population builds up quickly.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

The Boston fern gained enormous popularity in the Victorian era as a parlour plant. The 'Bostoniensis' cultivar, from which it takes its name, appeared in the USA in the late 19th century as a mutation. The species was first described by Carl Linnaeus as Polypodium exaltatum, and was transferred to the genus Nephrolepis in the 19th century by Heinrich Wilhelm Schott — hence the full name Nephrolepis exaltata (L.) Schott. The 19th-century craze for ferns, known in England as pteridomania, filled parlours and Wardian cases; Nephrolepis was among the most widely grown species of that fashion and one of the few to have remained in mass indoor cultivation to this day. 'Bostoniensis' differed from the wild form in having fronds that were longer and softly arching downwards instead of erect — it was precisely this trait that made it a plant for hanging containers and pedestals. Most of today's cultivars descend from it, including forms with doubly pinnate and lacy fronds. In the 20th century the species entered mass nursery production, and it was brought back into the spotlight by NASA's late-1980s study of air-purifying plants.

Uses

For interiors with moderate light and raised humidity, for hanging containers, on pedestals and in bathrooms. An excellent cascading plant. The best position is a north- or east-facing window, or a spot deeper inside a south-facing room, away from radiators and air-conditioning draughts. Because of its widely spreading fronds the plant should stand freely — pushed against a wall or squeezed between other containers it loses the symmetry of the clump and its fronds break. Plant it in a wide, not too deep container with drainage, in a light, humus-rich, acidic substrate; repot in spring, once the roots fill the container. It combines well with plants of the same requirements — peace lily (Spathiphyllum), calathea, fittonia or spleenwort (Asplenium) — grouped together, which creates a shared humid microclimate. In summer it can stand on a shaded balcony or a terrace sheltered from wind, but it must be brought indoors before the first cold nights; in the Polish climate it is not suitable for growing outdoors (zones 9a–11b).

Trivia

  • The Boston fern is cited in NASA studies as effective at removing formaldehyde from the air.
  • Ferns are among the oldest land plants — they existed hundreds of millions of years before flowering plants.
  • The NASA study that made the Boston fern famous as an air-purifying plant was carried out in sealed test chambers; scaled up to the conditions of a home, it would take dozens of plants in a single room to achieve a comparable effect — simply airing the room exchanges the air faster.
  • The genus name Nephrolepis comes from the Greek words nephros (kidney) and lepis (scale) — after the kidney-shaped indusium covering the clusters of sporangia.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my Boston fern turning brown and dropping its leaflets?

The most common cause is air that is too dry and a substrate that has dried out. The fern needs high humidity — regular misting, standing it on a tray of moist expanded clay and keeping it away from radiators all help.

Is the Boston fern safe for cats?

Yes — the Boston fern is non-toxic and considered safe for cats and dogs, which sets it apart from many popular houseplants.

Where is the best place to put a Boston fern?

In a bright spot without direct sun and with raised humidity — ideally a bathroom with a window or a kitchen. Avoid dry, hot air.

How do I propagate a Boston fern?

The simplest way is by dividing the clump when repotting in spring — the lifted root ball is split into sections, each with its own rhizome and roots, and planted straight away into moist substrate. You can also pin a rosette growing on a runner into an adjacent container and cut it free only once it has rooted. Propagation from spores is possible but takes many months, and cultivars rarely produce spores indoors while their seedlings do not come true to the cultivar — in practice they are propagated solely by division and runners.

Is it worth saving a Boston fern that has dried out completely?

Usually yes, provided the rhizome and roots have not dried out entirely. Cut all the browned fronds off at the base, soak the root ball with water (best by submerging the container for a quarter of an hour or so), and set the plant in a warm, bright place without direct sun and with high air humidity. New fronds usually appear after a few weeks.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/23/2026.

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