In short
- Position: partial shade or shade — direct sun burns out the leaf pattern.
- Substrate constantly slightly moist; it tolerates neither drying out nor waterlogging.
- Water exclusively with soft water: rain, filtered or distilled.
- It requires high air humidity — in a dry home the leaf margins turn brown.
- Completely non-toxic — safe for cats, dogs and children.
Botanical data
- Family
- Marantaceae (Marantaceae)
- Height
- 0.5–1 m
- Width
- 0.4–0.8 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Peaty
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–6.5
- Moisture
- Moist
- Bloom
- —
- Hardiness
- —
- Propagation
- By division
Characteristics
A clump-forming perennial with leaves growing directly from the rhizome on long stalks. The blades are large (20–40 cm), broadly elliptic and covered with a short velvety down, which makes them look matt. Light green, herringbone stripes run off the midrib against a dark green background; the underside of the leaf is purple. The flowers are inconspicuous, white and violet, and appear rarely indoors.
Growing and care
Watering
The substrate must be constantly slightly moist — the calathea forgives neither drying out nor waterlogging. Exceptionally sensitive to calcium, chlorine and fluoride: water exclusively with rain, filtered or distilled water at room temperature.
Fertilizing
Clearly diluted, about a quarter of the manufacturer's dose — the calathea has delicate roots and is easily salinated, which shows as browning leaf margins. Do not fertilise in winter.
Planting
A light, acidic peat substrate with added perlite and bark, retaining moisture but well drained. The pot not too large, with drainage; it can be stood on a tray of moist expanded clay to raise the air humidity.
Pruning
Cut out dried and browned leaves right at the base of the stalk. The plant needs no formative pruning — it renews itself by putting out new leaves from the centre of the clump.
Companion plants
Good companions
The fern needs the same constant moisture and partial shade, and placed together the plants mutually raise the air humidity around themselves.
Identical requirements: diffused light, moist substrate and humid air — the classic pair for a bathroom with a window.
The closest relative from the same family, with the same needs and the same nocturnal raising of the leaves — a natural combination in a single arrangement.
Bad companions
Full sun and a dry root ball mean lightning-fast drying of the leaf margins and loss of the pattern for the calathea.
The yucca requires a bright position and long breaks between waterings — conditions opposite to the calathea's needs.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | A non-toxic plant — it does not contain the calcium oxalates typical of the arum family. |
| Dogs | None | Regarded as safe; eating the leaves does not cause poisoning. |
| Cats | None | Safe for cats — alongside the spider plant, one of the more frequently recommended plants for a home with animals. |
History and origin
The species was described from Brazil in the 19th century as Calathea zebrina and is sold under that name to this day. Molecular research from 2012, however, showed that the former genus Calathea is not uniform, and most cultivated species — including the zebra plant — were transferred to the genus Goeppertia. The trade name “calathea” has nevertheless remained in common use.
Uses
For living rooms with diffused light, away from south-facing windows and radiators. It does best in a bathroom or kitchen, where the air humidity is naturally higher, or in the company of other plants forming a shared humid microclimate. Because of its lack of toxicity it is safe in a home with a cat.
Trivia
- Calatheas are among the prayer plants: in the evening they raise their leaves to the vertical, and in the morning they lower them to the horizontal. The movement is driven by the pulvinus — a thickening at the base of the leaf stalk which changes the turgor of the cells on one side.
- The nocturnal raising of the leaves is sometimes so pronounced that a rustling can be heard in a quiet room — hence the English name of the whole group: prayer plants.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the calathea have brown, dry leaf margins?
This is the most common problem of this species and usually has two causes: air that is too dry, and watering with hard tap water, to whose calcium, chlorine and fluoride the calathea reacts exceptionally badly. You have to switch to rain, filtered or distilled water and raise the humidity — stand the pot on a tray of moist expanded clay or in a group of other plants.
Why are the calathea's leaves curling?
Leaves rolled into tubes are a signal of a dried-out root ball or air that is too dry — the plant limits evaporation in this way. After watering with soft water they usually straighten out within a day. It is worth remembering that a slight raising of the leaves at night is natural and has nothing to do with the problem.
Is the calathea safe for cats?
Yes. The calathea is among the plants non-toxic to cats, dogs and people — it contains neither the calcium oxalates nor the irritating sap that make dumb cane or anthurium dangerous. It is one of the few striking foliage plants that can be kept in a home with animals without concern.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Goeppertia zebrinaInstitution / botanical garden
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