In short
- Intensely fragrant flowers in May and June.
- Needs full sun and a rather alkaline soil.
- Frost- and drought-hardy, long-lived.
- Prune right after flowering — the buds form on the old shoots.
- Highly nectar-rich, attracting bees and butterflies.
- Plant 2–3.5 m apart — a mature shrub reaches 2–6 m in height and 1.5–4 m in width.
- Suckers from grafted specimens come from the rootstock and flower differently from the cultivar — only suckers of own-root shrubs are suitable for propagation.
Botanical data
- Family
- Oleaceae (Oleaceae)
- Height
- 2–6 m
- Width
- 1.5–4 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich, Chalky
- pH reaction
- pH 6.5–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- May–June
- Hardiness
- USDA 3a–7b
- Propagation
- By layering, From cuttings
Characteristics
A large shrub or small tree with heart-shaped leaves and showy, conical panicles of small, tubular, strongly scented flowers in shades of purple, white and pink. It grows multi-stemmed and upright, reaching 2–6 m in height and 1.5–4 m in width; with age it becomes bare at the base and takes on a form close to that of a small tree. The leaves are opposite and entire, from a few to over ten centimetres long, green; they open early, several weeks before flowering — the lilac is among the first shrubs to come into leaf in spring. The bark of older trunks is greyish-brown and peels away in lengthwise strips. The inflorescence is a dense, conical panicle from about fifteen to more than twenty centimetres long, made up of small flowers with a tubular, four-lobed corolla; cultivars are divided into single- and double-flowered. After flowering, dry brown seed capsules form and persist on the shrub into winter; they have no ornamental value. It differs from the black elder (Sambucus nigra) in its leaves: simple and heart-shaped in the lilac, pinnately compound in the elder. It grows at a moderate rate and can live for as much as a hundred years. For abundant flowering it needs at least about six hours of direct sun a day; with less light it grows healthily but sets few flower buds. It does best on free-draining, humus-rich soil with a neutral to alkaline reaction (pH 6.5–7.5), but tolerates waterlogging poorly. It is exceptionally frost-hardy (USDA zones 3a–7b) and older specimens cope well with drought; in regions with mild, warm winters it flowers less freely, because it needs a distinct cold period to set buds.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Madame Lemoine’
- A classic French cultivar from the Lemoine nursery (1890), with pure white, double flowers in dense panicles. It grows to about 4 m. The most widely planted white lilac cultivar, also valued as a cut flower.
- ‘Andenken an Ludwig Späth’
- A German cultivar from the Späth nursery (1883), with single, dark purple flowers borne in narrow, elongated panicles. One of the darkest and longest-cultivated cultivars; it grows to about 4 m.
- ‘Charles Joly’
- A Lemoine cultivar (1896) with double, dark purple flowers with a silvery reverse to the petals. It comes into flower later than most cultivars and so extends the flowering season; strongly fragrant.
- ‘Katherine Havemeyer’
- A Lemoine cultivar (1922) with large, double flowers in a lavender-lilac tone that fade to pink with time, borne in very dense panicles. Valued for its intense scent and abundant flowering.
- ‘Krasavitsa Moskvy’
- A Russian cultivar raised by Leonid Kolesnikov (introduced around 1947), also sold as Beauty of Moscow. Pink-lilac buds open into double, pearly white flowers. Regarded as one of the most striking lilac cultivars.
- ‘Sensation’
- A Dutch cultivar from 1938 with single, purple flowers with a distinct white margin to the petals — a two-tone pattern rare among lilacs. It can be unstable: individual shoots may flower uniformly purple.
Growing and care
Watering
Mature shrubs are drought-tolerant; regular watering is needed mainly in the first few years and during budding.
Fertilizing
The lilac likes alkaline soil — occasional liming encourages flowering.
Planting
Fertile, free-draining, rather alkaline soil in full sun; a shaded position reduces flowering.
Pruning calendar
Pruning group: Spring-flowering shrubs
What and how to cut
Right after flowering each year, cut out 1/4–1/3 of the oldest shoots at the very base, and shorten the spent shoots back to a young side branch. This keeps a steady supply of young shoots coming from the bottom.
Right after flowering.
What not to do
Don't prune in winter or early spring before flowering — you'll remove the ready-formed buds and there will be no flowers. The right window is only the brief moment right after flowering. Don't shear them flat like a hedge either — you'll ruin the natural shape and the flowering shoots.
Companion plants
Good companions
They fill the shaded space at the base of the tall lilac, which becomes bare below.
Bad companions
The lilac needs alkaline soil while the rhododendron needs acidic — the conflicting soil requirements make growing them together impossible.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | — |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
The lilac reached western European gardens from the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century and quickly became one of the most beloved ornamental shrubs. Its scent has inspired many cultivars and works of culture. In the wild it grows on rocky, often limestone slopes in the mountains of the Balkan Peninsula — hence its liking for alkaline soils and its good drought tolerance. It came to western Europe by way of Vienna: it was brought from Constantinople by the imperial envoy Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq in the 1560s and described by the Flemish botanist Carolus Clusius. In the 17th century it travelled with settlers to North America, where to this day it is one of the emblems of New England rural architecture. The breakthrough in breeding came with the work of Victor Lemoine's French nursery in Nancy, which from the 1870s to the mid-20th century introduced more than two hundred cultivars — still known as French lilacs and still forming the backbone of the commercial range. Work on new cultivars was continued by, among others, the German Späth nursery and the Russian breeder Leonid Kolesnikov. In Poland the lilac has for generations grown beside country houses, wayside shrines and cemeteries, and its colloquial name “bez” has become fixed in songs and literature.
Uses
For gardens as a specimen or in groups, for flowering informal hedges and as a cut flower. A classic feature of cottage gardens. The position should be sunny and well ventilated; the shrubs are planted in September–October or in early spring, 2–3.5 m apart and away from paving and the edges of hard surfaces — root suckers can push up through the joints, and right against a wall they are hard to cut out. It tolerates urban conditions well, which makes it useful both in home plantings and in municipal greenery. For an informal hedge it is planted in a row and pruning is limited to removing the spent panicles — shearing it to shape leaves it without flowers. With age the shrub becomes bare at the base; the base can be underplanted with ground-cover perennials that tolerate partial shade, or the lilac can be trained as a standard on a single stem. It combines well with plants of similar soil requirements — peonies, bearded irises and spring bulbs; these are planted on the south side, out of the reach of the shade cast by the grown shrub, since all of them need full sun. The lilac should not, however, be planted next to rhododendrons and other acid-loving plants. The flowers are visited in numbers by butterflies and bumblebees — the long corolla tube means the nectar is most easily reached by insects with long mouthparts; the shrub works well in plantings for pollinators. For cutting, the panicles are taken in the morning, when part of the flowers in the head have opened; removing the leaves and splitting the woody ends of the stems noticeably extends the life of the bouquet.
Trivia
- The Polish common name „bez“ is misleading — the lilac (Syringa) belongs to a different genus than the black elder (Sambucus).
- Lilac flowers are edible and are sometimes used to decorate and flavour baked goods and syrups.
- The genus name Syringa comes from the Greek syrinx — a pipe — and refers to the shoots, which are hollow inside and easy to bore out. The same name was once given to mock orange (Philadelphus), and it is to that shrub that most of the old accounts of making pipes and simple wind instruments from such shoots are attributed.
- The lilac is the official flower of the US state of New Hampshire; the shrubs planted around 1750 at the Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion in Portsmouth are still alive today — more than two and a half centuries, which is a good illustration of the species' longevity.
Frequently asked questions
Why won't my lilac flower?
The most common causes are pruning at the wrong time (in winter or spring, when the flower buds are removed), too much shade, excess nitrogen or a too-acidic soil. The lilac needs sun and an alkaline soil.
When should I prune a lilac?
Right after flowering (in June), removing the spent panicles. Next year's buds form in summer on the current season's shoots, so later pruning reduces flowering.
What should I do with the lilac's root suckers?
The lilac produces numerous root suckers. You can remove them to limit its spread, or dig them up with the root and use them to propagate the shrub.
When and how should a lilac be transplanted?
The best time is September–October or early spring, before the leaves open. Young shrubs move easily; older ones need as large a root ball as possible to be dug up and the shoots shortened by roughly a third, which limits water loss — at the cost of flowering in the coming season. This is the only case in which a lilac is pruned in spring; apart from transplanting, the rule is to prune right after flowering. The new site should be in full sun, on free-draining soil with a neutral to alkaline reaction. For the first season after transplanting the shrub is watered regularly, even though mature specimens are drought-tolerant.
Where does the white coating on lilac leaves come from and is it dangerous?
It is powdery mildew, which usually appears in the second half of summer, when air humidity is high and ventilation poor. For a mature shrub it is mainly a cosmetic problem — the flower buds for the following year have already formed by that time. It helps to thin the shrub after flowering, keep a spacing of 2–3.5 m, remove fallen leaves and avoid excess nitrogen, which encourages the young growth that is susceptible to infection.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Syringa vulgarisInstitution / botanical garden
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