In short
- Sunny position, well-drained soil, dry to moderately moist.
- Flowers blue from May to September, especially after a midsummer trim.
- Very drought-loving and undemanding; does not tolerate wet, heavy soil.
- A sterile hybrid — it does not set seed and does not self-sow.
- Attracts cats (nepetalactone) as well as swarms of bees and butterflies.
Botanical data
- Family
- Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae)
- Height
- 0.3–0.5 m
- Width
- 0.4–0.6 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun
- Soil
- Sandy, Humus-rich, Chalky
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.8
- Moisture
- Dry, Moderate
- Bloom
- May–September
- Hardiness
- USDA 4a–8b
- Propagation
- By division, From cuttings
Characteristics
It forms airy, spreading clumps with the square stems typical of the mint family. The small, toothed leaves are aromatic and covered with a fine, silvery down that gives the whole plant a grey-green tone. From May, loose spikes of small, lavender-blue flowers cover almost the entire clump. Because it is a sterile hybrid, the plant does not waste energy on seeds and flowers for a long time, and after cutting back it readily repeats its bloom.
Growing and care
Watering
A drought-loving plant, excellent for sunny, well-drained positions. Very drought-resistant once established; it does not tolerate overwatering or heavy, wet soil, on which the roots rot.
Fertilizing
Sparingly — on overly fertile soil the plant grows lush, flops apart, and flowers more weakly.
Planting
Full-sun position, well-drained, preferably calcareous soil. On heavy substrates add gravel or coarse sand to improve drainage.
Pruning
After flowering, cut the clump back by about a third — the plant quickly rebounds and flowers again; in spring remove the dried shoots.
Companion plants
Good companions
The classic underplanting for roses — the soft, blue haze of flowers conceals the bare lower stems of the roses and highlights their colour.
Both plants like full sun and dry, well-drained soil and attract pollinators — they make a coherent, Mediterranean-flavoured border.
The drought-loving stonecrop has identical requirements, and its fleshy cushions contrast well with the airy habit of the catmint.
Bad companions
They need moist soil and shelter from the sun — under such conditions catmint grows lank and rots, so it should not be planted together with them.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | Regarded as non-toxic; it is sometimes used in herbalism and as an aromatic herb. |
| Cats | None | Contains nepetalactone, which strongly attracts cats and induces their characteristic excitement. It is safe for them, although eating large amounts may temporarily upset the stomach. |
| Dogs | None | — |
History and origin
It arose as a spontaneous hybrid in European nurseries in the early 20th century and was named after the Dutch nurseryman J. H. Faassen. It quickly became one of the most popular perennials for sunny borders, valued for its reliability and long flowering season.
Uses
For sunny perennial borders, edgings, and cottage-style and Mediterranean gardens, for dry banks and containers. Classically planted at the foot of roses and along paths, where brushing against it releases its aroma.
Trivia
- The scent of the leaves contains nepetalactone — the same compound that puts cats into their characteristic reverie.
- As a sterile hybrid it does not weed the garden with self-sown seedlings, unlike many wild-growing catmints.
Frequently asked questions
How do you encourage catmint to flower again?
When the first wave of flowers begins to fade, it is enough to cut the whole clump back by about a third. The plant quickly puts out new shoots and blooms again after a few weeks, often right through to September.
Does Faassen's catmint self-sow around the garden?
No. It is a sterile hybrid that sets no fertile seed, so it does not weed the garden with self-sown seedlings — unlike some wild-growing catmints. It is propagated by division or cuttings.
Why do cats roll around in catmint?
This is due to the nepetalactone contained in the aromatic leaves, which triggers the characteristic excitement and reverie in many cats. It is safe for them, although the plants are sometimes nibbled and flattened as a result.
Sources
- RHS — Nepeta × faasseniiInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Nepeta × faasseniiInstitution / botanical garden
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