Hybrid tea rose

Rosa × hybrida · Hybrid tea rose (EN) · Edelrose (DE)

The hybrid tea rose (Rosa × hybrida) is the most popular group of garden roses, prized for its large, double flowers and long flowering period from June into autumn.

Full sun Medium watering USDA 5a–9b
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In short

  • Requires full sun and fertile, free-draining soil.
  • Flowers repeatedly from June to September.
  • Susceptible to powdery mildew and aphids – prevention matters more than cure.
  • Spring pruning determines the vigour of flowering during the season.
  • Grows well in the company of lavender, which deters aphids.
  • Plant with the bud union 3–5 cm below the soil surface – this protects the named cultivar from frost damage.
  • Rose replant disease: do not plant where another rose has grown without replacing the soil (about 40 cm deep and wide).

Botanical data

Family
Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
Height
0.6–1.5 m
Width
0.5–0.8 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Full sun
Soil
Loamy, Humus-rich
pH reaction
pH 6–7
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
June–September
Hardiness
USDA 5a–9b
Propagation
From cuttings, By layering

Characteristics

A shrub with stiff, thorny stems and large, double flowers borne singly or in small clusters at the tips of the shoots. The leaves are compound, glossy and dark green. It reaches 0.6–1.5 m in height and 0.5–0.8 m in width, grows at a moderate rate and forms a distinctly upright habit that becomes bare at the base with age – which is why the bed is designed with a lower edging of perennials. The leaf is odd-pinnate, usually made up of 5–7 toothed leaflets; young growth is often reddish-brown and only turns green after a few weeks. The flower is usually borne singly on a long, stiff stalk, less often in twos or threes, is built from several dozen petals and usually reaches 10–12 cm in diameter (more in exhibition cultivars) – hence the dominance of these cultivars in growing for cut flowers. This group should not be confused with the floribunda rose, in which the smaller flowers always form many-flowered clusters and the shrub is lower and denser; in retail trade both names are sometimes used interchangeably, although they denote separate horticultural groups. Flowering is repeat, from June to September, and takes place on the current year's growth, which justifies hard pruning in spring. Fully double cultivars have their stamens largely transformed into petals, so pollen and nectar are hard for pollinators to reach – real forage is provided by semi-double cultivars and by species and ground-cover roses. The plant requires full sun (a minimum of 6 hours a day), an airy but wind-sheltered position and fertile, humus-rich soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0; it tolerates waterlogged ground and compacted, trampled soil poorly. Practically all nursery stock consists of cultivars budded onto a rootstock (most often dog rose, Rosa canina), which determines the planting depth and the need to cut out suckers emerging below the bud union. Amateur gardeners propagate roses from cuttings or layers, but named cultivars propagated this way grow more weakly and overwinter less well – which is why nurseries bud them onto a rootstock.

Popular cultivars

‘Gloria Dei’
The most famous cultivar of the group, from the Meilland nursery, also sold as Madame A. Meilland or Peace. Very large, creamy-yellow flowers with a pink-red edge to the petals, vigorous growth to about 1.5 m.
‘Nostalgie’
Bred by Tantau. A two-toned flower: creamy-white inside and cherry-red petal edges; fragrance light to moderate. A compact shrub, about 0.8–1.2 m, striking in a prominent spot in the bed and as a cut flower.
‘Duftwolke’
Also known as Fragrant Cloud, from the Tantau nursery. Salmon-red, double flowers with an exceptionally intense fragrance – one of the most strongly scented hybrid tea roses. Height about 1 m; the foliage is prone to black spot, so it needs an airy position.
‘Ingrid Bergman’
Bred by Poulsen. Dark red, velvety flowers on stiff stems; the fragrance is weak, but the foliage has good health. About 0.8–1 m, good for more difficult positions.
‘Blue Moon’
Also known as Mainzer Fastnacht, from the Tantau nursery. Lilac-lavender flowers with a strong, sweet scent – the most commonly planted of the so-called blue roses. About 0.8–1 m; the flowers are sensitive to rain.
‘Elina’
Bred by Dickson, also traded as Peaudouce. Very large flowers in a creamy-yellow shade, paling towards the petal edges, against dark, healthy foliage. Vigorous, about 1–1.2 m (taller in fertile soil), repeat-flowers abundantly.

Growing and care

Watering

Water abundantly but rather infrequently – this lets the roots develop more deeply. Avoid wetting the leaves to reduce fungal diseases.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

Stop nitrogen feeding from August so the shoots have time to ripen and harden before winter.

every 4–6 weeks from April to July · nawóz do róż (NPK), kompost

Planting

Fertile, free-draining soil enriched with compost; a wind-sheltered but airy position.

Timing: April–May or September–October · spacing 50–80 cm

Pruning calendar

Pruning group: Bedding/large-flowered roses — early-spring pruning

Why then: They bloom on this year’s shoots; hard pruning in early spring stimulates strong, abundantly flowering new growth.

What and how to cut

In early spring (bud break), shorten the shoots to 3–5 buds above the woody base, cutting about 0.5 cm above an outward-facing bud at a slight angle; remove dead and thin shoots.

Early spring, before the buds develop.

What not to do

Do not prune hard in autumn (the cuts suffer frost dieback) — in autumn only shorten the longest shoots against the wind.

Companion plants

Good companions

English lavenderPractical observation

The scent of lavender deters aphids, which readily attack roses; a classic, tried-and-tested combination.

Ornamental onion (Allium)Gardening tradition

The strong smell of ornamental garlic deters some of the pests that attack roses, including aphids.

Pot marigold (Calendula)Research-backed

The root secretions of pot marigold can reduce the population of soil nematodes harmful to roses.

Bad companions

Plants that need dry, poor soil (e.g. lavender in the same bed)Practical observation

The rose needs more frequent feeding and watering than Mediterranean plants – growing them together in one position makes it hard to match the care.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Rose black spot

Black to dark-brown spots with ragged margins on rose leaves, surrounded by yellowing of the leaf blade. Infected leaves drop in large numbers, weakening the plant and reducing flowering. The disease intensifies in wet seasons and where air circulation is poor. The spots are usually round, from a few millimetres to about 1-1.5 cm across, and their most important diagnostic feature is the radially fringed, feathery margin - the mycelium spreads beneath the leaf cuticle in all directions, producing the characteristic 'star-shaped' edge (hence the German name Sternrußtau). Under heavy infection the spots merge into larger, irregular patches, and the surrounding yellowing spreads across more and more of the blade until the whole leaf turns yellow and drops. Small, dark conidial fruiting bodies (acervuli) appear on the upper surface of the spots, while the underside of the leaf remains free of any coating. Symptoms appear first on the lower, oldest leaves and gradually move up the shrub, because the spores are carried by water splashing up from the soil and from lower leaves. Small, purplish-red discolorations and blotches may appear on young, green shoots. Prolonged wetting of the leaves for several hours is required for the spores to germinate and infect, which is why the disease breaks out after warm, rainy spells. Repeated defoliation exhausts the shrub, limits flowering and worsens winter hardiness.

Rust

Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Thrips

Very small (1–2 mm), slender, elongated insects with fringed wings, coloured yellow, brown or black; the larvae are pale yellow and wingless. They suck sap from the cells of leaves, petals and buds. Symptoms: silvery to silvery-grey streaks and blotches on the leaves, tiny black specks of excrement, and distortion of young leaves, buds and flowers. They are especially damaging under glass and on houseplants, and some species transmit plant viruses. The silvery sheen appears once the pest has sucked out the contents of the epidermal cells — the empty, air-filled cells reflect light like metallic streaks; they are accompanied by glistening black specks of excrement, which distinguish thrips feeding from that of most other sap-sucking pests. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking and asymmetric (only a single mandible), so the insect first rasps the tissue and then sucks up the exuding sap. On flowers, feeding produces white or brownish discolouration and distortion of the petals — severe on roses, chrysanthemums, orchids and cyclamens. The life cycle is short and, in warm conditions, the generations overlap: the females lay eggs inserted into the plant tissue, the larvae (two instars) feed on the leaves and then drop to the soil or litter, where they pass through the immobile prepupal and pupal stages. Among the most damaging are the western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) — a key greenhouse pest and vector of tospoviruses (including tomato spotted wilt, TSWV) — and the onion thrips (Thrips tabaci). Only the larvae acquire the viruses, while the adults transmit them, so reducing the larvae also lowers the risk of viral infection.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None
Dogs Mild The thorns can cause mechanical injuries; the petals are not poisonous.
Cats None

History and origin

The hybrid tea group of roses arose in 1867 in France from crossing European roses with repeat-flowering Chinese roses. Since then it has become the most popular group of garden roses in the world. The first cultivar of the group is considered to be 'La France', introduced by the Lyon breeder Jean-Baptiste Guillot – traditionally described as the offspring of a hybrid perpetual and a tea rose, although this parentage has never been unequivocally confirmed. The year 1867 is taken by convention as the dividing line between old and modern roses. In the 20th century the tone of breeding was set by the Meilland family in France and by Kordes and Tantau in Germany, as well as Poulsen in Denmark and Dickson in Northern Ireland; their cultivars still form the backbone of nursery ranges in Central Europe. The most famous rose of the group remains 'Gloria Dei', introduced in France as 'Madame A. Meilland' and in 1945 – by then as 'Peace' and 'Gloria Dei' – in the United States and in Germany, where it was adopted as a symbol of post-war reconciliation. From the middle of the 20th century hybrid tea roses have dominated world cut-flower production, and in Germany new cultivars have been assessed since 1950 in the multi-year ADR trial, which rewards healthy foliage.

Uses

For beds, borders, climbing roses on supports and cultivation in pots on the terrace. Cut flowers stay fresh in the vase for up to 10 days. A note on terminology: the term 'climbing roses' refers to separate horticultural groups (climber and rambler) – the hybrid tea rose has stiff, upright stems 0.6–1.5 m tall and is not trained over pergolas or trellises. The vase life given refers to glasshouse roses with cut-flower food; a bloom cut from a garden shrub usually lasts about a week. The best effect comes from planting in groups of 3–5 shrubs of one cultivar spaced 50–80 cm apart – single specimens scattered around the garden are lost against the background, while a compact group forms a solid block of colour. The position should be open and airy; a shrub squeezed into a corner between walls falls ill much more quickly. Planting is done in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), setting the bud union 3–5 cm below the soil surface. A new bed should not be established where a rose has been grubbed out without replacing the soil to a depth and width of about 40 cm – young shrubs establish poorly in an old position. For companion planting, low perennials with similar light requirements are used: catmint (Nepeta), woodland sage (Salvia nemorosa) and cranesbills (Geranium) – planted at least 40 cm from the base of the shrub so that they do not compete for water or restrict airflow. Lavender works well in this company provided it has its own, drier watering zone; planted in the same bed as a rose it suffers from the more frequent watering and feeding. In a container a deep pot with a volume of 30–40 l or more is needed, with drainage and protection for the root ball in winter. Flowers for bouquets are cut in the morning, at the loose-bud stage, at an angle above the first fully developed five-leaflet leaf.

Trivia

  • The rose is the national symbol of many countries and cities.
  • There are over 20,000 registered varieties of garden rose.
  • What is popularly called a rose thorn is botanically a prickle – an outgrowth of the stem's skin that can be snapped off without damaging the wood; true thorns are modified shoots, as in hawthorn (Crataegus).
  • Propagation material of the future 'Gloria Dei' left France shortly before the German invasion in 1940 – according to the most frequently repeated version, on the last shipment to the United States, where the cultivar went on sale in 1945 as 'Peace'.

Frequently asked questions

Why are my rose's leaves turning yellow and developing a white coating?

These are usually signs of powdery mildew – a fungal disease favoured by high air humidity and poor circulation. Pruning for better airflow and avoiding wetting the leaves help against it.

When should you prune a hybrid tea rose?

The main pruning is done in early spring, just before the buds develop, cutting the stems back to 3–5 healthy eyes.

How often should you water a rose?

Abundantly but infrequently – once every 5–7 days in summer, thoroughly soaking the soil. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow rooting.

How do you protect a hybrid tea rose over winter?

In late autumn, after the first frosts, the base of the shrub is mounded up with soil or compost to a height of 20–25 cm, so that the bud union is covered. The longest stems can be shortened by about a third so that snow and wind do not break them – the proper pruning is done only in spring. The mound is raked away in March or April, once the risk of hard frosts has passed. Specimens in containers overwinter against a house wall with the root ball protected, because roots freeze faster in a pot than in the ground. The zone 5 given for this group applies to plants overwintered under cover – without the earth mound, named cultivars are killed back by frosts of little more than ten degrees below zero, and the shrub then regrows only from the rootstock.

Why is my hybrid tea rose flowering poorly?

The most common causes are too little sun (the site requirements are described in the characteristics section), an excess of nitrogen, which pushes out leaves at the expense of buds, a skipped spring pruning and root competition from neighbours planted too close. It is also worth checking whether suckers from the rootstock are emerging below the bud union – they have smaller, lighter leaflets and gradually take the shrub over; they are pulled off at the base rather than cut. Shrubs planted in the current year flower more weakly until they have rooted in.

What is the difference between a hybrid tea rose and a floribunda rose?

The hybrid tea rose produces large flowers, usually 10–12 cm across, borne one to a long, stiff stalk – which is why it is the source of cut flowers. The floribunda rose has smaller flowers, but gathered into many-flowered clusters; it flowers more densely and gives a more compact block of colour in the bed, and the shrub is usually lower and better branched. The growing requirements of both groups are similar – full sun, fertile soil, pruning in early spring – the difference concerns mainly the ornamental effect. In retail trade both names are sometimes used interchangeably, so when buying, the group given on the label is what counts.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/23/2026.

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