In short
- One of the few profusely flowering balcony plants for partial shade and shade.
- Blooms for a long time, from June to October, on the current season's growth.
- Not frost-hardy - most cultivars are killed by a light frost.
- Overwinter in a bright, frost-free room (around 5-10 °C) and prune hard in spring.
- Non-toxic; the berries are edible, though bland.
Botanical data
- Family
- Onagraceae (Onagraceae)
- Height
- 0.3–0.6 m
- Width
- 0.3–0.6 m
- Habit
- Cascading
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- June–October
- Hardiness
- USDA 9a–11a
- Propagation
- From cuttings
Characteristics
Hybrid fuchsia is a subshrub or half-shrub with soft, initially herbaceous shoots that become woody at the base with age. In balcony cultivation it usually reaches 30-60 cm in height; trailing forms create cascades spilling from the pot, while bushy forms grow upright and branched. The leaves are ovate to lanceolate, toothed, opposite or in whorls, dull green, and in some cultivars with reddish veining. The main ornament is the flowers: pendulous on slender stalks, made up of a tube, four upswept perianth sepals and a spreading corolla of four petals (in double cultivars, of many). The sepals and corolla are usually of contrasting colours - hence the impression of a ballerina in a flared skirt. The colours span red, pink, purple, violet and white in various combinations; long stamens and a single style protrude from the tube. Flowering is long and abundant, from June until the first frosts, because the plant sets its buds on the current season's growth. After pollination, fleshy, dark berries develop. Fuchsia grows quickly but is sensitive to frost: most hybrid cultivars are damaged even by a light frost, so in the Polish climate it is treated as a seasonal plant or overwintered in a leafless dormant state. It tolerates shadier positions than most balcony plants, yet in full, deep shade it flowers poorly - it grows best in bright partial shade or dappled shade, sheltered from scorching sun and dry wind, in a constantly moist, humus-rich and well-drained substrate.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Swingtime’
- A double-flowered cultivar: carmine-red tube and sepals, cream-white corolla with red veining. Loose, arching shoots - one of the classic fuchsias for hanging baskets.
- ‘Marinka’
- A trailing cultivar with single, almost single-coloured red flowers. Very free-flowering and hardy, considered one of the best fuchsias for hanging baskets and window boxes.
- ‘Dollar Princess’
- A compact, upright cultivar with double flowers - red sepals and a dense, purple corolla. Vigorous and early-flowering, good for pots and seasonal bedding.
- ‘Winston Churchill’
- A bushy cultivar with double flowers, pink sepals and a silvery-lilac corolla. Valued for its regular, globular habit and large, showy flowers.
- ‘Annabel’
- An upright cultivar with large, double flowers in white gently shading to pink. It flowers abundantly and also tolerates brighter positions than most fuchsias.
Growing and care
Watering
In hot weather, water containers even daily, keeping the moisture constant but without waterlogging. In winter, water dormant plants very sparingly.
Fertilizing
Potassium promotes bud formation; excess nitrogen produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
Planting
The substrate should be fertile, humus-rich, well-drained and constantly slightly moist. In containers, provide a good drainage layer at the bottom.
Pruning
In spring, cut the shoots back hard above live buds to thicken the habit. During the season, pinch the tips of young shoots and remove spent flowers with their fruit set.
Companion plants
Good companions
Podobne wymagania — półcień, żyzne i wilgotne podłoże — więc dobrze współistnieją w jednej skrzynce, uzupełniając się barwą kwiatów.
Zwisające kwiaty fuksji kontrastują z barwnym listowiem tła w cienistej kompozycji pojemnikowej.
Bad companions
Sprzeczne wymagania — pełne słońce i suche podłoże kontra półcień i stała wilgoć — jedna grupa cierpi niezależnie od pielęgnacji.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
Grey mouldA grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Greenhouse whiteflyTiny (1-2 mm) white insects resembling minuscule moths that rise in a cloud when the plant is disturbed. They feed on the underside of leaves, sucking sap and excreting honeydew. This causes yellowing and weakening. Common on tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and pelargoniums, especially in polytunnels and greenhouses. The wings of the adults are covered with a white, waxy bloom (hence the name) and at rest lie flat, roof-tile fashion over the body. Females lay their eggs on the underside of young leaves, often in characteristic arcs or circles, on short stalks. The eggs hatch into mobile first-instar larvae (so-called crawlers), which, once they find a feeding site, lose the ability to move and, as flat, oval, translucent greenish 'scales', attach themselves to the leaf until pupation. Feeding symptoms are pale spots, yellowing and wilting of the leaves and - most troublesome of all - copious honeydew, on which sooty mould (sooty mould fungi) develops, disfiguring leaves and fruit and limiting photosynthesis. In heated greenhouses the whitefly develops without interruption, producing many overlapping generations throughout the year; in the Polish climate it does not overwinter outdoors (it is killed by frost), so the source of infestation is protected cultivation and introduced seedlings, while in summer the insects may fly out into the open ground. The whitefly can also be a vector of plant viruses (criniviruses, e.g. tomato chlorosis virus).
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
History and origin
The genus Fuchsia comprises close to a hundred species originating mainly from the mountainous, humid forests of Central and South America - from Mexico to Patagonia - with a few species also growing in New Zealand and on Tahiti. The name was given by the French botanist Charles Plumier, who at the end of the seventeenth century described the first species in Haiti and commemorated the German herbalist Leonhart Fuchs. Fuchsias reached Europe in the eighteenth century and quickly became the subject of intensive breeding, especially in nineteenth-century England, where gardeners crossed, among others, Fuchsia magellanica, F. fulgens, F. coccinea and F. triphylla. From these crosses descends the enormous group of garden cultivars gathered collectively as Fuchsia × hybrida - not a single species, but a hybrid assemblage of mixed parentage. Today there are several thousand registered cultivars, differing in habit, size and flower colour, and in the fullness of the corolla.
Uses
Hybrid fuchsia is planted above all in balcony boxes, pots, hanging baskets and containers on the terrace, while bushy cultivars are also used in the ground for the summer season. It is valued where other balcony plants fail - in partly shaded and shaded positions on the north or east side, though in full, deep shade it flowers poorly. It is planted into the ground and containers only after the frosts have passed, usually in mid-May, at a spacing of about 30 cm. The substrate should be fertile, humus-rich and constantly slightly moist; in hot weather containers are watered even daily, while avoiding overwatering and standing water. At the height of the season the plant is fed every one to two weeks with a fertiliser high in potassium, which promotes flowering. It is worth removing faded flowers and fruit set, because seed formation inhibits further flowering; pinching the tips of young shoots thickens the habit and increases the number of buds. Cultivars are propagated exclusively from cuttings - sowing the seed of a hybrid produces plants unlike the mother plant, with split traits. To keep the plant for the following year, in autumn before the frost it is moved to a cool (around 5-10 °C), bright and frost-free room, watering is reduced, and in spring it is pruned hard and gradually hardened off before being put outside. Fuchsia is non-toxic, so it can be safely planted where children and pets are present; its pendulous flowers are readily visited by bumblebees.
Trivia
- The genus name commemorates the sixteenth-century herbalist Leonhart Fuchs; the flower colour also gave its name to the intensely pink shade 'fuchsia' and to the synthetic dye fuchsine.
- Fuchsia berries are edible - jams are made from the fruit of some species - though in ornamental cultivars the flavour tends to be bland to slightly astringent.
- In their native range, fuchsia flowers are pollinated by hummingbirds, attracted by the red colour and the long nectar-filled tube; in Europe this role is taken over mainly by bumblebees.
Frequently asked questions
Will fuchsia survive the winter in the ground?
Most hybrid cultivars are not frost-hardy and are killed even by a light frost - they must be overwintered in a bright, frost-free room. The exception are cultivars derived from Fuchsia magellanica, which in milder regions can overwinter in the ground under a cover, although the above-ground part usually freezes back to the soil.
Why does fuchsia drop its buds before they open?
Most often it is a reaction to sudden changes in conditions - the root ball drying out, heat, an abrupt move to another place, or a draught. It helps to keep the substrate constantly moist, choose a position away from full sun, and not change the plant's position while it is setting buds.
What is the best position for fuchsia?
Bright partial shade or dappled shade, sheltered from scorching midday sun and from dry wind - which is why it does well on north- and east-facing balconies. In full, hot sun the flowers wilt quickly, while in deep, full shade the plant flowers poorly.
How do I overwinter fuchsia correctly?
In autumn, before the first frost, move the plant to a cool (around 5-10 °C), bright and frost-free room. Reduce watering considerably, but do not let the root ball dry out completely. In spring, prune the shoots hard, resume watering and gradually harden the plant off before putting it outside once the frosts have passed.
Is fuchsia toxic to cats and dogs?
No - fuchsia is regarded as a non-toxic plant, and its berries are edible. It can be safely grown where children and pets are present.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Fuchsia cultivationInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Fuchsia × hybridaInstitution / botanical garden
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