Japanese maple

Acer palmatum · Japanese maple (EN) · Fächerahorn (DE)

The Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) is an ornamental, slow-growing tree or large shrub with palmately lobed leaves, prized for its spectacular autumn colour and picturesque habit.

Partial shade High watering USDA 5b–8b
Watering calculator

In short

  • Grows slowly, reaching 1.5 to 8 m depending on the cultivar.
  • Requires partial shade and moist, acidic soil.
  • Sensitive to wind and harsh sun — the leaves scorch.
  • Striking autumn leaf colour (red, orange).
  • Suitable for growing in large containers and as bonsai.
  • The leaf is opposite and palmate, with 5, 7 or 9 serrated lobes and a width of 4–12 cm.
  • Ornamental cultivars are bought as grafted specimens: green suckers emerging below the swelling at the base of the trunk are cut off flush with the base, in summer or during dormancy.
  • The roots are shallow and fine: mulch the area under the crown with bark instead of digging it over or planting it densely.

Botanical data

Family
Sapindaceae (Sapindaceae)
Height
1.5–8 m
Width
1.5–6 m
Habit
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Position
Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Loamy
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moderate, Moist
Bloom
April–May
Hardiness
USDA 5b–8b
Propagation
From seed, From cuttings

Characteristics

A tree or shrub with a picturesque, often umbrella-shaped habit and the characteristic palmately divided leaves. Many cultivars keep red or purple foliage all season, while others colour up only in autumn. The leaves are borne in opposite pairs and have 5, 7 or 9 sharply pointed, serrated lobes and a width of 4–12 cm; in the Dissectum group the lobes are cut almost to the base, which gives the leaf a lacy look. The flowers are small and inconspicuous — carried in loose corymbs with reddish sepals, they open in April and May together with the leaves. The fruit is a paired samara with widely spread wings, ripening in late summer and autumn. The shoots are slender and smooth, greenish or reddish on young specimens and greyish brown with age. Habit depends strongly on the cultivar: upright forms build a crown taller than it is wide over time, while cultivars of the Dissectum group form low, dome-shaped mounds wider than they are tall; in many cultivars the branches are arranged in layers. The site requirements described in this profile follow from two structural features: a shallow, fine root system and thin bark that is easily damaged by sunscald and mechanical injury. Late spring frosts can damage the emerging leaves — the plant usually rebuilds them, but loses that season's growth in the process.

Popular cultivars

‘Bloodgood’
One of the most popular red cultivars, with an upright habit, reaching 3–5 m. The dark purple leaves hold their colour through the whole summer better than seedling forms, and in autumn turn a carmine red.
‘Atropurpureum’
An old form, common in the trade, with red-purple leaves and an upright habit to about 5 m. It is not a cultivar with fixed characteristics but a name applied to red-leaved seedlings — which is why in hot summers the colour is often less stable and turns brownish green, with the intense red returning only in autumn.
‘Garnet’
A cultivar of the Dissectum group, usually sold as Dissectum Garnet. The deeply cut, lacy leaves are dark red with a brown tinge and lighten to scarlet in autumn. The habit is cascading and dome-shaped, ultimately about 2.5–3.5 m; good beside a pond or on a slope, where the weeping shoots can be seen.
‘Osakazuki’
A green-leaved cultivar regarded as the benchmark for autumn colour — the leaves turn a fiery, orange-scarlet red. The habit is broadly rounded, reaching about 6 m in height and a similar width, so it needs plenty of room.
‘Sango-kaku’
Valued above all for its shoots: the young twigs are coral red and colour most strongly in winter, once the leaves have fallen. The leaves are light green, turning golden yellow in autumn; the habit is upright, to about 5–6 m. Sometimes sold under its former name, Senkaki.
‘Orange Dream’
In spring the leaves are yellow-orange with a reddish margin, in summer green-yellow and in autumn golden. Compact and slow-growing, about 2–3 m — good for containers and small gardens.

Growing and care

Watering

Sensitive to drying out and leaf scorch; requires moist soil and shelter from strong wind and harsh sun.

In summer every ~4 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Moderately — an excess of nitrogen weakens the intensity of the leaf colour.

in spring · kompost, nawóz do roślin kwasolubnych

Planting

Fertile, acidic, well-drained soil; a site sheltered from wind and harsh midday sun.

Timing: September–October or March–April · spacing 200–400 cm

Pruning calendar

Pruning group: "Bleeding" trees — prune in summer, not winter

Why then: These trees (birch, maple, hornbeam, walnut) lose a lot of sap from cuts made in late winter and spring, when the sap is rising. In full leaf, in summer, the wounds barely "bleed," so the tree is not weakened and the wound heals better.

What and how to cut

Prune from midsummer to early autumn, when the tree is in full leaf. Limit yourself only to cuts that are truly necessary.

Late autumn or winter, during dormancy.

What not to do

Don't prune from late winter to early summer — during this period sap flows heavily from the wounds, which weakens and disfigures the tree.

Companion plants

Good companions

Siebold's plantain lilyPractical observation

The hosta likes the same partial shade and moist, acidic soil; it fills the space at the maple's feet well.

RhododendronPractical observation

Both are acid-loving plants with similar requirements — a classic combination in the Japanese-style garden.

Bad companions

Plants with a strong, competitive root systemPractical observation

The Japanese maple has delicate roots and copes poorly with competition for water and nutrients.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Verticillium wilt

The first symptom is a sudden wilting and drying of leaves on individual branches or on one side of the crown, while the rest of the plant appears healthy. A cross-section of an infected shoot reveals a brownish or greenish discolouration of the wood — the vascular bundles clogged by the fungus, which can no longer conduct water. The disease progresses over successive years, affecting an ever-larger part of the crown and leading to the gradual death of the plant. Maples (especially Japanese maple), catalpa and many other trees, shrubs and perennials are particularly susceptible. The disease takes two forms: an 'acute' form, in which a branch or the whole plant dies rapidly within a few weeks, and a 'chronic' form — a slow decline spread over several seasons, with smaller, paler leaves, marginal scorching of the blades (resembling sunburn) and premature autumn colouring on infected shoots. The sectoral, one-sided distribution of symptoms is the hallmark of Verticillium wilt above all on woody plants — the part of the crown supplied by the clogged vessels dies off. The discolouration of the wood is best seen just under the bark as longitudinal streaks, and in cross-section as an interrupted ring; in maples it is often olive-green. Symptoms intensify in heat and during drought, when the demand for water exceeds the capacity of the damaged bundles. On herbaceous plants (dahlia, aster, chrysanthemum, tomato, potato, strawberry) one observes wilting and yellowing of the lower leaves, stunting and one-sided (half-blade) yellowing of the leaf — on these species, however, the symptom picture alone is unreliable for differentiation, because one-sided yellowing may also be caused by Fusarium wilt. The vascular discolouration by itself is not conclusive — a definitive diagnosis requires laboratory isolation of the pathogen.

Tar spot of maple

The disease affects maples, especially Norway maple and sycamore maple. In summer, large, round, raised, glossy black spots up to 1–2 cm across appear on the upper side of the leaves, deceptively resembling drops of tar or hardened lacquer and often surrounded by a lighter, yellowish halo. The damage is mainly aesthetic, although with heavy infection the leaves drop somewhat earlier. Interestingly, the spots appear mainly where the air is clean — the fungus is sensitive to sulphur dioxide pollution and is therefore regarded as a natural indicator of good air quality. The symptom develops in a characteristic way: the first sign, visible as early as late spring or early summer, is a blurred, pale-green to yellowish patch of discolouration, still without any black structure. Only within it, in the second half of summer, does a thick crust build up — at first matt, later glossy black (the fungal pad, the so-called stroma), slightly raised, with a faintly radial or wrinkled surface. The spots are hard and permanently fused with the blade — they cannot be rubbed off with a finger or washed off with water, which is the key feature distinguishing them from a superficial, sooty film. On the underside of the leaf, opposite the spot, the tissue is sometimes lighter, yellowish. The number of spots ranges from single to a dozen or more per leaf; at high density they may almost touch. The disease is monocyclic — no secondary infections occur during the season, and the mature fruiting bodies (apothecia) form in the black stromata only on the fallen leaves over winter and in spring discharge ascospores that infect the young, developing leaves. Infection does not permanently weaken the tree — even with numerous spots, growth and overall condition remain undisturbed.

Armillaria root rot (honey fungus)

The fungus attacks the roots and stem base of trees and shrubs, causing their slow decline – the plants grow weakly, the crown thins, the leaves become smaller, and eventually they dry up. The diagnostic sign is white, fan-shaped sheets of fungal mycelium forming a dense layer under the bark at the stem base, with a distinct mushroom smell. In the soil and under the bark there are black or dark-brown, bootlace-like rhizomorphs, by which the fungus spreads to further plants. In autumn, clusters of fruiting bodies – honey mushrooms – grow at the base of infected trees. The above-ground symptoms are non-specific and easily confused with drought or overfeeding: some plants die suddenly (the whole tree turns brown within a single season, especially in hot weather), while others weaken over years – producing short growth, discolouring prematurely, and just before death setting an exceptionally heavy crop of flowers or fruit ('stress flowering'). In conifers, resin bleeding at the stem base is common. When the bark is exposed at the root collar, the wood of the roots and stem turns white and softly rots – honey fungus causes a white rot of the wood. The mycelial layer can be cream-coloured and leathery, spreading radially from beneath the dead bark. A biological curiosity, rather than a sign useful in garden diagnosis, is that the mycelium in moist, infected wood can glow very faintly in the dark (so-called 'cold light') – the effect is too weak and requires complete darkness, so in practice it cannot be used to identify the disease. The disease advances in foci – neighbouring plants die off one after another around an infected one.

Sooty mould

On leaves, shoots and fruit a black, soot-like coating forms that can be partly wiped off with a finger. These fungi do not infect the plant tissue – they grow on the sweet, sticky honeydew excreted by aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, psyllids and scale insects. The coating therefore appears exactly where these pests feed, and its main harm is that it masks the leaf blade, reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plants. The symptom is often seen on citrus, lime, maple and on houseplants and greenhouse plants. The coating may be thin and cobweb-like or thick, crusty and dull black — depending on the fungus species and the amount of honeydew; on evergreen plants it can persist through the whole winter. A key identifying feature: after the blade is wiped, healthy green tissue emerges from beneath the black layer — sooty mould leaves no spots, necrosis or pitting, because it does not penetrate the leaf. The extent of the symptom is also characteristic: the soot settles where the sticky honeydew drips, so it appears not only on leaves but also on objects beneath the plant — the pavement, garden furniture, a windowsill or car bodywork — which in itself reveals pests feeding higher up. The sooty mould fungi themselves are dark-pigmented (melanised) saprotrophs, which is why the layer is deeply black. Direct damage to the plant is usually moderate — weakening through leaf shading, loss of vigour, poorer appearance and reduced market value of fruit or ornamental plants — but a dense, long-lasting coating on many leaves genuinely limits assimilation and growth. Sooty mould is best treated as a visible signal that a colony of sap-sucking insects is developing higher up on the plant (or on a tree above it).

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Winter moth

A moth with marked sexual dimorphism: the male has grey-brown, finely banded wings with a span of about 25 mm, whereas the female is practically wingless and flightless and therefore climbs up the trunk in autumn to lay its eggs in the crown. In spring green looper caterpillars with pale lengthwise stripes hatch, moving with the characteristic "looping" gait (arching the rear of the body) and eating the developing buds, young leaves and fruitlets, often webbing them together with threads. It feeds on apple, pear, plum, cherry and many deciduous trees and shrubs. The mature caterpillar reaches about 25 mm in length and is yellow-green with a darker dorsal line and pale stripes along its sides; as a typical looper (Geometridae) it has only two pairs of prolegs at the end of the abdomen, hence its looping gait. The eggs are laid singly near the buds and in bark crevices, where they overwinter, and just before the spring hatch they change colour from greenish to orange-red. The species has one generation a year: the moths fly in late autumn (October-December, which is the origin of the Polish name "przedzimek", meaning before-winter), on cool, frost-free evenings, and the flightless females then climb the trunks. The spring hatch of the caterpillars is closely synchronised with bud burst (usually April); after about 4-6 weeks of feeding the caterpillars lower themselves to the ground on threads and pupate shallowly in the soil, where the pupa spends the summer. The signs of feeding are holed and ragged young leaves, eaten flower and leaf buds, and deformed fruit covered with corky scars that develop from the damaged fruitlets; under heavy pressure the caterpillars can almost strip the crown bare.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None
Dogs None
Cats None

History and origin

The Japanese maple has been cultivated and selected in Japan for centuries (momiji), forming an integral part of Japanese gardens and bonsai art. It reached Europe in the 19th century. In the wild it grows in the understorey of the mountain forests of Japan, Korea and China — as a second-storey species it is accustomed to dappled light and the shelter of older trees, which explains its garden requirements today. It was described scientifically in 1784 by the Swedish botanist Carl Peter Thunberg, physician at the Dutch trading post on Dejima. The introduction of living plants to Europe is credited above all to Philipp Franz von Siebold and Dutch nurseries, from the 1830s onwards; in the second half of the century Japanese maples became fashionable in British and Belgian gardens, and with them came the first Japanese cultivars with names written phonetically, such as Osakazuki or Inaba-shidare. The coral-barked cultivar Sango-kaku reached the West later and for decades was sold in Europe under the name Senkaki. European and North American nurseries took up their own selection work in the 20th century; hence names such as Bloodgood (USA) or Orange Dream (Italy, 1990). In Polish nurseries Japanese maples became widespread relatively late, together with the offer of container-grown cultivars.

Uses

For small and medium-sized gardens as a specimen, for Japanese gardens, for terraces in large containers and as material for bonsai. The best spot is a corner sheltered from wind, in bright partial shade — against an east-facing wall or under the canopy of taller deciduous trees, where the plant gets morning sun and is shaded at midday. Plant it in September–October or in March–April, spaced 2–4 m from its neighbours, without burying the root ball. Because of the shallow roots, the area under the crown is better mulched with pine bark than densely planted and dug over. It combines well with acid-loving plants: rhododendrons and azaleas, hostas, ferns and sedges, and in Japanese compositions with mosses and stones. Weeping cultivars of the Dissectum group need a place where the cascade of shoots can be seen from the side rather than from above. For containers choose slow-growing forms; the container must be large and deep, with an acidic substrate and drainage, and for the winter it should be wrapped, sunk into the ground or moved to an unheated room, because the root ball freezes more easily in a container than in open ground. The species is not suitable for clipped hedges or for sunny, windy front gardens.

Trivia

  • There are more than 1,000 cultivars of Japanese maple, differing in colour, leaf shape and habit.
  • Admiring the autumn colour of maples (momijigari) is a tradition in Japan similar to viewing the spring cherry blossom.
  • The species epithet palmatum means 'hand-shaped' and refers to the shape of the leaf; Japanese cultivar names, in turn, often contain the element shidare, meaning 'weeping' — as in Inaba-shidare.
  • In the trade Acer palmatum is most often sold as the Japanese maple, which is why that name appears here as well; in botanical nomenclature, however, the Japanese maple is Acer japonicum — a separate species with almost round, fan-shaped leaves bearing 9–13 lobes.

Frequently asked questions

Why do the leaves of my Japanese maple turn brown and dry at the edges?

This is most often the result of sun scorch or drying out, made worse by wind. The Japanese maple needs partial shade, shelter from wind and a consistently slightly moist soil.

Can the Japanese maple be grown in a container?

Yes, slow-growing cultivars do well in large containers with an acidic substrate. They require regular watering and protection of the roots from frost in winter.

How fast does the Japanese maple grow?

Slowly — usually 20–30 cm per year. This slowness makes it well suited to small gardens and as a bonsai.

Will the Japanese maple survive a Polish winter in the ground?

Yes — the species is hardy in USDA zones 5b–8b, so in most of the country it grows in the ground without cover. The exception is the coldest north-eastern regions, where a sheltered site should be chosen and young specimens protected. The real threat, however, is not winter frost but late spring frosts, which damage the emerging leaves; the plant usually rebuilds them, losing that year's growth in the process. Newly planted specimens are mulched with a thicker layer of bark for their first two or three winters.

Why has my red Japanese maple cultivar turned green in summer?

There are usually one of three causes. Some red forms, especially seedlings sold under the name Atropurpureum, naturally turn brownish and green in the heat and regain their full colour in autumn. The second cause is too deep a shade — the colour develops best in bright partial shade, with morning sun and shelter during the midday hours. The third is an excess of nitrogen in feeding. If, however, green shoots are growing low down, from below the swelling at the base of the trunk, these are suckers from the rootstock and must be cut off flush with the base — in summer or during dormancy, not in spring.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/23/2026.

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