In short
- Fast-growing; in a pot it usually reaches 1-3 m tall.
- Palmately compound leaves with 5-9 leaflets resemble those of umbrella plant (Schefflera), but it belongs to a different family (Malvaceae).
- In the trade the trunks are hand-braided from several young plants.
- Tolerates moist soil - it comes from tropical wetlands and swamps.
- Non-toxic - safe for people, dogs and cats.
- The swollen trunk base stores water, so the plant withstands brief drying-out more easily than excess water.
Botanical data
- Family
- Malvaceae (Malvaceae)
- Height
- 1–3 m
- Width
- 0.4–1 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Partial shade, Full sun
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Peaty
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.2
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- —
- Hardiness
- USDA 10b–11b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, From seed
Characteristics
The money tree forms a smooth trunk with greenish-grey bark, distinctly swollen at the base - a natural water reservoir that lets the plant survive periods of drought. In the trade you will almost only find specimens with several (usually three or five) young, pliable trunks braided together; as they turn woody the braid becomes permanent. The leaves are palmately compound, borne on long petioles, and consist of 5-9 lance-shaped, glossy leaflets radiating from a single point - an arrangement resembling the leaves of umbrella plant (Schefflera), although the two plants belong to distant families. The blades are dark green and entire-margined, with the largest central leaflet reaching 15-30 cm. Indoors the plant stays evergreen and grows quickly, adding as much as several dozen centimetres a year; kept in a pot it usually reaches 1-3 m, though in the wild it can be a tree several dozen metres tall. Flowers appear rarely on potted plants: they are large, with narrow, cream-white petals bending backwards and a cluster of many long stamens with reddish tips; they open at night and fade quickly. After flowering a woody capsule forms, holding seeds that are edible when roasted, but it is practically never seen in indoor cultivation.
Growing and care
Watering
In summer water generously once the top layer of the substrate has dried out (roughly weekly), in winter much less often. Despite its origin in wetlands, water standing permanently in the saucer leads to root rot in a pot.
Fertilizing
Apply at a moderate concentration; stop feeding in winter.
Planting
Permeable, humus-rich substrate with added drainage material (perlite, coarse sand), in a pot with drainage holes.
Pruning
Overly tall shoots can be shortened - this encourages branching and helps keep a compact habit or train the plant as a bonsai.
Companion plants
Good companions
Grupowanie roślin lubiących jasne, rozproszone światło i wilgotniejsze powietrze ułatwia utrzymanie stabilnych warunków wokół nich.
Bad companions
Rośliny suszolubne wymagają rzadkiego podlewania i przepuszczalnego, ubogiego podłoża — odmienny rytm pielęgnacji niż wilgociolubna pachira utrudnia wspólną uprawę.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
MealybugsInsects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.
Armoured and soft scale insectsImmobile, brown or yellowish shields (1-4 mm) attached to stems and the underside of leaves, especially along the veins. Easily mistaken for growths on the plant. They suck sap, causing yellowing and weakening, and excrete sticky honeydew. Common on figs, orchids and plants with tough leaves. The collective name covers two groups with different biology. Armoured scales (Diaspididae) have a hard waxy shield separate from the body, which can be prised off - beneath it emerges a tiny, legless and wingless female; they do not excrete honeydew. Soft scales (Coccidae) have a convex, cup-shaped cover fused with the body, and it is they that excrete it abundantly. Sticky honeydew - the domain of soft scales and other honeydew-producing scale insects, not of armoured scales - settles on the leaves and attracts sooty mould fungi (sooty mould, sooty blotch) as well as ants, which defend the colony against predators. The only mobile feeding stage is the crawler - a flat, tiny larva which, after hatching from beneath the mother's shield, disperses over the plant, then settles, inserts its stylet into the conducting tissues and loses the ability to move; adult females remain immobile for the rest of their lives. Males pupate and, as tiny, winged, short-lived insects, do not feed. In heated interiors the pest breeds all year round, producing several overlapping generations; outdoors usually 1-3 generations, and fertilised females or eggs hidden beneath the shield overwinter. Feeding symptoms are yellowing and premature leaf drop, dieback of shoots, stunting and weakening of the plant, and secondarily a black coating of sooty mould on leaves covered with honeydew. On fruit trees infested by San Jose scale (Comstockaspis perniciosa), reddish discolouration appears around the feeding sites, and heavily colonised branches die back. Because the shields are immobile and their colour blends into the bark and veins, an infestation is easily overlooked until honeydew appears or the plant is noticeably weakened - which is why regular inspection of the leaf undersides and shoot axils is key.
Fungus gnatsSmall, dark gnats (2–4 mm) flying around pots and scurrying across the surface of the substrate. The adults are a nuisance, but the real damage is done by their larvae in the soil, feeding on the roots and the base of the stems of young plants. A constantly moist, humus-rich substrate favours their development — the classic result of overwatering houseplants. Adult fungus gnats are delicate, mosquito-like flies with a slender, dark grey body, long, beaded antennae and a single pair of smoky wings; they fly clumsily in short bursts, readily settle on the surface of the substrate and on window panes, and when disturbed rise up in a little cloud. They themselves do not damage plants — they neither pierce nor suck sap — but their presence is a reliable sign that larvae are developing in the substrate. The larvae are translucent, whitish, legless and elongated (up to 5–6 mm), with a distinct, glossy black head capsule — it is this black head that distinguishes them from other soil organisms. They feed mainly on dead organic matter, fungal mycelium and algae, but at high densities they gnaw on young roots, root hairs and the base of stems. The signs of their feeding are wilting and stunted growth of seedlings and young potted plants, yellowing, poor rooting and, in extreme cases, seedlings toppling over and dying off where they have been chewed at the base. The wounds inflicted by the larvae are also entry points for infection, and the larvae and adults themselves can carry the spores of soil pathogens (including Pythium, Fusarium, Botrytis), linking the pest problem with root-rot diseases. The development cycle (egg → larva → pupa → adult) takes about 3–4 weeks in warmth and shortens at high temperatures; a female lays several dozen to over a hundred eggs on the moist surface of the substrate, and in a heated home or greenhouse the generations overlap throughout the year, so that with constant overwatering the population builds up quickly.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | — |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
The genus Pachira comes from tropical America - the species' natural range covers wetlands, river banks and marshy swamps from southern Mexico through Central America to the north of South America. In its countries of origin the tree was sometimes planted for its edible seeds, hence the English names Malabar chestnut and Guiana chestnut. Its popularity as a houseplant began in the 1980s in Taiwan, where young specimens with braided trunks started to be mass-produced; the plant was linked to the symbolism of prosperity in feng shui and given the trade name money tree. From Taiwan and China its cultivation spread to Japan, America and Europe, and the braided trunk became a recognizable mark of the species in the ornamental trade.
Uses
Indoors the money tree is placed in a bright spot; the plant tolerates a few hours of gentle sun, but harsh midday sun scorches the leaflets, so it grows best in bright, diffused light by an east- or west-facing window. The optimal temperature is 18-25°C, and throughout the year the plant should not drop below about 12°C, which is why it is grown exclusively under cover - in summer it can be moved to a sheltered terrace or balcony and brought back before the nights cool below the low teens. It is planted in a permeable, humus-rich substrate with added drainage material, in a pot with drainage holes. Unlike most indoor plants the money tree comes from wetlands and tolerates moist soil, yet in a closed pot water standing in the saucer still leads to root rot - so in summer it is watered generously once the top layer of the substrate has dried out (roughly weekly), and much less often in winter. The swollen trunk base stores water, so the plant withstands brief drying-out more easily than excess water. During the growing season it is fed with a fertilizer for green plants every 2-4 weeks. It is repotted every 2-3 years in spring; that is also the time to shorten overly tall shoots, which encourages branching and helps keep a compact habit or train the specimen as a bonsai. The most common problems - yellowing and dropping leaves - usually result from overwatering or a lack of light, and less often from draughts and dry, overheated air during the heating season.
Trivia
- The trade name money tree and the popularity of braided trunks are tied to the symbolism of prosperity in feng shui, where the five leaflets of a leaf are sometimes linked to the five elements.
- The braiding of the trunks is done by hand while the young stems are still green and pliable; over time they turn woody and the braid remains permanent.
- Pachira seeds are edible when roasted, and in the countries of origin they were sometimes roasted like nuts or ground into flour.
- Despite the name 'money tree' (literally 'water pachira' in Polish) and its origin in swamps, the potted plant does not tolerate water standing permanently in the saucer.
Frequently asked questions
How often should you water the money tree?
In summer water generously once the top layer of the substrate has dried out - roughly once a week - and always let the excess water drain away freely. In winter, when growth slows, water much less often, about every two weeks. Although the plant tolerates moist soil, water standing permanently in the saucer leads to root rot, so overwatering is more dangerous than brief drying-out.
Why are the money tree's leaves yellowing and dropping?
The most common cause is overwatering and waterlogged roots - check that water is not standing in the saucer and that the substrate is not constantly wet. The second common cause is too little light; the plant should stand in a bright spot without harsh midday sun. Yellowing and leaf drop are also worsened by draughts and by dry, overheated air during the heating season.
Is the money tree toxic to cats and dogs?
No. The money tree is regarded as a non-toxic plant, safe for people, dogs and cats. This is not an encouragement to eat the leaves - an animal that nibbles houseplants may get a stomach upset from the plant fibre alone, regardless of the species' toxicity.
How are the money tree's trunks braided?
The braid is made from several young plants grown together, while their stems are still green and pliable. The trunks are braided gradually as they grow, held in place with a loose tie. Over time the stems turn woody and the braid remains permanent. At home you can gently continue braiding young growth as long as it is flexible - woody trunks can no longer be bent without breaking them.
Why doesn't the money tree flower indoors?
Flowering in indoor cultivation is rare and is not the point of growing it - the money tree is kept for its ornamental leaves and braided trunk. The large, night-opening flowers appear mainly on mature trees in a tropical climate, conditions hard to recreate at home. A lack of flowers on a healthy, growing plant is no sign of any problem with it.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Pachira aquaticaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: Pachira aquaticaInstitution / botanical garden
- RHS — Pachira aquaticaInstitution / botanical garden
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