Angel wing begonia

Begonia corallina · Angel wing begonia (EN) · Forellenbegonie (DE)

The angel wing begonia (Begonia corallina) is a tall cane begonia with thickened, jointed shoots resembling bamboo, silver-spotted leaves shaped like an angel's wing, and hanging clusters of coral-red flowers.

Full sun/Partial shade High watering Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • A bright position without harsh midday sun — an east-facing window is best.
  • Flowers almost all year round given good light.
  • Water beneath the leaves, onto the substrate — wet leaves rot.
  • The tall shoots need a support and shortening in spring.
  • Toxic to dogs and cats (calcium oxalates).

Botanical data

Family
Begoniaceae (Begoniaceae)
Height
0.6–2 m
Width
0.4–0.8 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Peaty
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
April–October
Hardiness
Propagation
From cuttings, By division

Characteristics

A perennial with stiff, upright shoots bearing distinct joints, reaching 1-2 m in good conditions. The leaves are asymmetric, elongated, notched at the base — hence the name “angel wing” — dark green, silver-spotted, reddish beneath. The flowers are small, gathered into large, hanging clusters in shades of red, pink and white; the plant is monoecious, with separate male and female flowers.

Growing and care

Watering

Water when the top layer of substrate has dried out to a depth of 2-3 cm, preferably beneath the leaves, straight onto the substrate. Water remaining on the leaves encourages grey mould and mildew.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Half the dose recommended on the packaging, but more often — the begonia flowers for a long time and quickly exhausts the substrate. Do not fertilise in winter.

every 2 weeks from April to September · nawóz do roślin kwitnących

Planting

An airy peat substrate with perlite; a fairly tight pot. The tall shoots need a support, otherwise they splay out under the weight of the flower clusters.

Timing: repotting in spring, every 1-2 years

Pruning

Shorten the tallest shoots by a third above a node to force breaking from the base; remove spent flower clusters and dried leaves.

Timing: In spring, and as needed throughout the season. · Caution: Do not remove all the old shoots at once — the cane begonia breaks mainly from the base and, stripped of leaves, rebuilds itself slowly.

Companion plants

Good companions

Flamingo flowerPractical observation

The same need for bright diffused light and humid air, and both species flower indoors for most of the year.

Spider plantPractical observation

Similar light and water requirements; the spider plant screens the bare base of the begonia's tall shoots.

Bad companions

Jade plantPractical observation

The succulent requires the substrate to dry out completely and needs dry air — under such a regime the begonia drops its buds and leaves.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Greenhouse whitefly

Tiny (1-2 mm) white insects resembling minuscule moths that rise in a cloud when the plant is disturbed. They feed on the underside of leaves, sucking sap and excreting honeydew. This causes yellowing and weakening. Common on tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and pelargoniums, especially in polytunnels and greenhouses. The wings of the adults are covered with a white, waxy bloom (hence the name) and at rest lie flat, roof-tile fashion over the body. Females lay their eggs on the underside of young leaves, often in characteristic arcs or circles, on short stalks. The eggs hatch into mobile first-instar larvae (so-called crawlers), which, once they find a feeding site, lose the ability to move and, as flat, oval, translucent greenish 'scales', attach themselves to the leaf until pupation. Feeding symptoms are pale spots, yellowing and wilting of the leaves and - most troublesome of all - copious honeydew, on which sooty mould (sooty mould fungi) develops, disfiguring leaves and fruit and limiting photosynthesis. In heated greenhouses the whitefly develops without interruption, producing many overlapping generations throughout the year; in the Polish climate it does not overwinter outdoors (it is killed by frost), so the source of infestation is protected cultivation and introduced seedlings, while in summer the insects may fly out into the open ground. The whitefly can also be a vector of plant viruses (criniviruses, e.g. tomato chlorosis virus).

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild The sap contains calcium oxalates — it can irritate the skin and mucous membranes, but serious poisonings in people are rare.
Dogs Moderate Eating it causes drooling, irritation of the mouth and vomiting; the underground parts of the plant contain the most oxalates.
Cats Moderate

History and origin

The species was described from Brazil in the 19th century, and the genus commemorates Michel Bégon, the French governor and plant collector. Cane begonias became popular in 20th-century breeding — most of today's silver-spotted cultivars, grown as undemanding houseplants, arose from crosses involving B. corallina.

Uses

For bright interiors as a specimen plant of great effect — in a tall pot, in the corner of a room by an east-facing window. In summer it does well on a sheltered balcony or terrace in partial shade. Because of its long flowering it is a good alternative to the classic seasonally flowering plants.

Trivia

  • The characteristic silvery spots are a layer of air beneath the leaf cuticle — it scatters light deep into the blade, which in the shady forest understorey improves the use of the few glimpses of sun.
  • The thickened joints of the shoots, which make the begonia resemble bamboo, store water and allow the plant to survive brief drying out despite having no tuber.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my angel wing begonia not flowering?

Usually it lacks light — it needs a bright position without harsh sun, for example an east-facing window. Flowering is also encouraged by a fairly tight pot and regular feeding with a fertiliser for flowering plants. In too dark a spot the shoots elongate and the plant merely grows upwards.

Why are the shoots long and the plant bare at the bottom?

Cane begonias naturally grow upwards and go bald at the base. In spring shorten the tallest shoots by a third, cutting above a node — this will force young shoots to break from the base. Do not remove all the old shoots at once, as the plant rebuilds itself slowly.

Is begonia poisonous to cats?

Yes, begonias contain calcium oxalates and are considered toxic to dogs and cats. Eating them causes drooling, irritation of the mouth and vomiting; the underground parts are the most dangerous. It is worth keeping the plant out of reach of animals.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/16/2026.

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