In short
- Blooms continuously from May to October.
- Very versatile — grows in sun, partial shade and shade.
- Self-cleaning — sheds spent flowers on its own.
- Fleshy stems store water — do not overwater.
- Toxic to dogs and cats, especially the underground parts.
Botanical data
- Family
- Begoniaceae (Begoniaceae)
- Height
- 0.15–0.35 m
- Width
- 0.15–0.3 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–6.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- May–October
- Hardiness
- USDA 10a–11b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, From seed
Characteristics
A low, compact plant with rounded, glossy, fleshy leaves (green or brownish-red) and numerous small flowers in shades of red, pink and white that persist throughout the season.
Growing and care
Watering
Water moderately at the base; the fleshy stems store water, so it tolerates brief drying out better than overwatering. Do not wet the leaves.
Fertilizing
Regular, moderate feeding sustains abundant flowering.
Planting
Light, humus-rich, well-drained substrate; it tolerates both sun and shade, which makes it very versatile.
Pruning
Pinch out the tips to make the plant bushier; the begonia usually sheds spent flowers on its own (self-cleaning).
Companion plants
Good companions
Similar requirements and flowering season — a popular, colour-coordinated combination for beds and window boxes.
Bad companions
The begonia rots in excessive moisture — proximity to bog plants forces a watering regime that is harmful to it.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
Grey mouldA grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Greenhouse whiteflyTiny (1-2 mm) white insects resembling minuscule moths that rise in a cloud when the plant is disturbed. They feed on the underside of leaves, sucking sap and excreting honeydew. This causes yellowing and weakening. Common on tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and pelargoniums, especially in polytunnels and greenhouses. The wings of the adults are covered with a white, waxy bloom (hence the name) and at rest lie flat, roof-tile fashion over the body. Females lay their eggs on the underside of young leaves, often in characteristic arcs or circles, on short stalks. The eggs hatch into mobile first-instar larvae (so-called crawlers), which, once they find a feeding site, lose the ability to move and, as flat, oval, translucent greenish 'scales', attach themselves to the leaf until pupation. Feeding symptoms are pale spots, yellowing and wilting of the leaves and - most troublesome of all - copious honeydew, on which sooty mould (sooty mould fungi) develops, disfiguring leaves and fruit and limiting photosynthesis. In heated greenhouses the whitefly develops without interruption, producing many overlapping generations throughout the year; in the Polish climate it does not overwinter outdoors (it is killed by frost), so the source of infestation is protected cultivation and introduced seedlings, while in summer the insects may fly out into the open ground. The whitefly can also be a vector of plant viruses (criniviruses, e.g. tomato chlorosis virus).
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | Contains calcium oxalates; the underground parts are the most irritating. |
| Dogs | Moderate | — |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
History and origin
Begonias were named in honour of Michel Bégon, a 17th-century French patron of botany. The wax begonia became one of the most popular bedding plants thanks to its versatility and long flowering period.
Uses
For balcony boxes, containers, seasonal beds and edgings. One of the few plants that flowers equally well in sun and shade, which makes it exceptionally versatile.
Trivia
- The genus Begonia comprises over 2000 species, making it one of the largest genera of flowering plants.
- Begonia flowers are edible and have a slightly sour taste due to the presence of oxalic acid.
Frequently asked questions
Does the wax begonia grow in shade?
Yes — this is one of its greatest assets. It flowers in both full sun and shade, although red-leaved varieties colour up better in the sun.
Why is the begonia rotting at the base?
The most common cause is overwatering and wetting the fleshy stems. The begonia should be watered moderately at the base, given good drainage, and kept free from wetting of the leaves and stems.
Can the begonia be kept over winter?
The wax begonia can be rooted from cuttings in late summer, and the young plants can be overwintered in a bright, warm room, treating them as a houseplant.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Begonia semperflorensInstitution / botanical garden
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