Tuberous begonia

Begonia × tuberhybrida · Tuberous begonia (EN) · Knollenbegonie (DE)

Tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida) is a group of showily flowering garden hybrids with large, double flowers, grown from tubers that are lifted for winter, intended mainly for shaded sites.

Partial shade/Shade High watering Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • Unlike the wax begonia, it requires shade or partial shade, not full sun.
  • Large, showy flowers resembling double roses or camellias, in many colours.
  • Propagated from tubers, which must be dug up for winter and stored in a dry, cool place.
  • Flowers abundantly from June until the first frosts.
  • Does not tolerate waterlogging — excess water at the base of the stem causes the tuber to rot.

Botanical data

Family
Begoniaceae (Begoniaceae)
Height
0.2–0.4 m
Width
0.2–0.3 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Partial shade, Shade
Soil
Humus-rich
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moist, Moderate
Bloom
June–October
Hardiness
Propagation
From bulbs / tubers, From cuttings

Characteristics

Forms succulent, brittle stems with large, asymmetrical leaves. The flowers, considerably larger than those of other garden begonias (up to 15 cm in diameter), are single or double, resembling a rose or camellia.

Growing and care

Watering

Water regularly, avoiding wetting the leaves and the base of the stem, to prevent rot. In winter the tubers are stored dry.

In summer every ~3 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Moderate doses — excess nitrogen limits flowering in favour of leaf growth.

every 2 weeks from June to August · nawóz wieloskładnikowy dla roślin kwitnących o niskiej zawartości azotu

Planting

Light, humus-rich substrate with good drainage; plant the tuber with the concave side facing up.

Timing: start tubers in pots for initial growth in March–April, plant out after the frosts (late May) · spacing 20–30 cm

Pruning

After the first frosts, cut back the above-ground parts, dig up the tubers and let them dry before storing.

Timing: In autumn, before lifting the tubers. · Caution: Do not leave the tubers in the ground for winter — they will not survive frost.

Companion plants

Good companions

Siebold's plantain lilyPractical observation

Both species prefer shade or partial shade and moist, humus-rich soil — a proven combination for shade compositions.

Ostrich fernPractical observation

Similar habitat requirements (shade, moisture) and contrasting leaf texture create a striking composition.

Bad companions

RosemaryPractical observation

Rosemary requires full sun and dry soil — the opposite of the conditions tuberous begonia needs.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild The tubers contain calcium oxalates — they can irritate the mouth if ingested.
Dogs Moderate The most toxic part is the underground portion (the tuber) — it can cause vomiting and irritation of the digestive tract.
Cats Moderate

History and origin

The Begonia × tuberhybrida hybrids were bred in the second half of the 19th century in Europe, by crossing Andean species brought from South America (including Bolivia and Peru). Thanks to the size and fullness of their flowers, they quickly became a popular garden and show plant.

Uses

Excellent for shaded beds, pots and balcony boxes on the north or east side of a building, where most flowering plants struggle with the lack of sun. Also striking as a show plant in pots.

Trivia

  • Well-stored tubers can last for many years, growing larger from season to season.
  • Some trailing cultivars (pendula) are grown specifically for hanging baskets and boxes in shade.

Frequently asked questions

Why won't my tuberous begonia flower in the sun?

It is a shade- and partial-shade-loving plant — in full sun the leaves and flowers get scorched, and the plant grows poorly. It thrives best in a bright spot that is sheltered from direct rays.

How do you store begonia tubers for winter?

After the first frosts, cut back the above-ground parts, carefully dig up the tubers, let them dry and store them in dry peat or sawdust at 5–10°C until spring.

What is the difference between tuberous begonia and wax begonia?

Tuberous begonia has much larger, more showy flowers, grows from a tuber that must be lifted for winter, and prefers shade, whereas wax begonia is small-flowered, grown from seed, and tolerates more sun.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/14/2026.

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