In short
- Grows fast — several dozen centimetres a year — and closes a hedge faster than white cedar.
- Healthier and less prone to dieback in dense hedges than Thuja occidentalis.
- Less frost-hardy than white cedar: roughly USDA zone 5b–6 against 3a.
- Dark, glossy green and a sweet, fruity scent when crushed; it discolours little in winter.
- One of the few conifers that regenerates even from older, leafless wood.
- All parts contain toxic thujone.
- Requires fertile, moist, well-drained soil; tolerates drought and salinity poorly.
- The cultivar Atrovirens belongs to this species, not to white cedar.
Botanical data
- Family
- Cupressaceae (Cupressaceae)
- Height
- 3–20 m
- Width
- 2–5 m
- Habit
- Conical
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- —
- Hardiness
- USDA 5b–8a
- Propagation
- From cuttings, From seed
Characteristics
An evergreen conifer with a regular, conical habit and flattened, scale-like sprays arranged in one plane. It differs from white cedar in several features: a darker and distinctly glossy green, a sweet, fruity scent when crushed (rather than sharp and resinous) and white, butterfly-shaped waxy markings on the underside of the scales; it also lacks the raised resin gland clearly visible in white cedar. It grows fast, adding from a dozen to several dozen centimetres a year, and under garden conditions usually reaches 10–20 m, while as a specimen tree in a mild, moist climate much more — in the wild it ranks among the tallest trees in the world. The plant is monoecious: in spring small, brown male cones and inconspicuous female cones appear on the same plant, and by autumn the latter develop into upright, narrow cones about 1–1.5 cm long, ripening from green to brown. In winter it discolours less than white cedar — the green stays dark, with at most individual sprays turning brown. The root system is shallow, but the species tolerates shade and periodically moist soil better than white cedar and is markedly less prone to dieback in poorly ventilated, overly dense hedges. The price for these advantages is lower frost-hardiness — reaching about zone 5b–6, whereas white cedar withstands down to zone 3a.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Atrovirens’
- The most commonly planted hedging cultivar of this species (and not of white cedar): dark green, glossy, dense foliage that holds its colour in winter, and fast, even growth. The basic material for tall, dense hedges.
- ‘Martin’
- A cultivar selected for hedging, with a compact, conical habit and dark green, prized for slightly better frost-hardiness and even growth. A frequent choice where the typical species can be too sensitive to frost.
- ‘Excelsa’
- A vigorous, tall cultivar with a looser habit, intended for tall screens and hedges. It builds height faster than other forms, so it needs space and regular formative pruning.
- ‘Zebrina’
- A cultivar with foliage banded crosswise in yellow and cream (hence the name), growing slower than purely green forms. Planted as a colourful specimen, not for hedging; it colours best in full sun and turns green in shade.
- ‘Whipcord’
- A dwarf cultivar with long, hanging, cord-like shoots and a soft, dome-shaped habit up to about 1 m. For beds, rock gardens and containers, not for hedging; its unusual habit makes it an ornamental accent.
Growing and care
Watering
Prefers constantly, moderately moist soil; tolerates prolonged drought and salinity poorly. It copes with shade and periodic moisture better than white cedar, but in hot weather and in the first years it needs regular watering.
Fertilizing
Conifer fertilisers contain magnesium that limits yellowing of the scales; the last feeding by July.
Planting
Deep, fertile, well-drained soil, constantly moderately moist; for a hedge plant 60–100 cm apart, with the root ball level with the ground.
Pruning
Shape by trimming the current year's growth. Unlike white cedar, western red cedar also tolerates harder pruning and, as one of the few conifers, regenerates even from older, partly leafless wood, which makes it easier to rejuvenate neglected hedges.
Companion plants
Good companions
Barwinek, runianka czy bodziszek korzeniasty radzą sobie w suchym cieniu u podstawy gęstego żywopłotu, gdzie inne rośliny są głodzone.
Bad companions
Szybko rosnący, gęsty żywopłot silnie zacienia i przesusza glebę u swojej podstawy, utrudniając wzrost roślin tuż obok.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The fungus attacks the roots and stem base of trees and shrubs, causing their slow decline – the plants grow weakly, the crown thins, the leaves become smaller, and eventually they dry up. The diagnostic sign is white, fan-shaped sheets of fungal mycelium forming a dense layer under the bark at the stem base, with a distinct mushroom smell. In the soil and under the bark there are black or dark-brown, bootlace-like rhizomorphs, by which the fungus spreads to further plants. In autumn, clusters of fruiting bodies – honey mushrooms – grow at the base of infected trees. The above-ground symptoms are non-specific and easily confused with drought or overfeeding: some plants die suddenly (the whole tree turns brown within a single season, especially in hot weather), while others weaken over years – producing short growth, discolouring prematurely, and just before death setting an exceptionally heavy crop of flowers or fruit ('stress flowering'). In conifers, resin bleeding at the stem base is common. When the bark is exposed at the root collar, the wood of the roots and stem turns white and softly rots – honey fungus causes a white rot of the wood. The mycelial layer can be cream-coloured and leathery, spreading radially from beneath the dead bark. A biological curiosity, rather than a sign useful in garden diagnosis, is that the mycelium in moist, infected wood can glow very faintly in the dark (so-called 'cold light') – the effect is too weak and requires complete darkness, so in practice it cannot be used to identify the disease. The disease advances in foci – neighbouring plants die off one after another around an infected one.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Moderate | The shoots and oil contain thujone, toxic if ingested; the sap may irritate the skin, so it is worth wearing gloves when pruning. |
| Dogs | Moderate | — |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
| Horses | Moderate | — |
History and origin
Western red cedar comes from the moist, oceanic forests of the west coast of North America — from southern Alaska to northern California and inland into the Rocky Mountains. For the indigenous peoples of the Pacific coast it was a tree of first-rate importance: its soft, durable, rot-resistant wood was used to build totem poles, longhouses and dugout canoes, while ropes, mats and clothing were woven from its fibrous bark — hence the English name "western red cedar" and the epithet "canoe tree." The species was scientifically described by the Scottish botanist David Don in 1824. Its seeds were brought to Europe in 1853 by the collector William Lobb, working for the Veitch nursery; the tree was quickly appreciated in the moist British climate, where to this day it ranks among the fastest-growing park conifers. In twentieth-century horticulture the cultivars of western red cedar — especially Atrovirens — became widespread as material for tall, quickly closing hedges, promoted as a healthier and less dieback-prone replacement for white cedar.
Uses
Planted primarily for tall, formal hedges and screens and as a fast-growing specimen and park tree. It is often recommended as a replacement for white cedar where a dense wall of greenery is wanted quickly and greater health matters — plicata grows markedly faster, tolerates shade and harder pruning better and dies back less often in dense plantings. For a hedge it is planted every 60–100 cm, setting the root ball level with the ground; planting too densely and too deeply are among the common causes of browning. A formal hedge is maintained by trimming the current year's growth in spring and late summer. Unlike white cedar, western red cedar regenerates well after harder pruning, which makes it easier to rejuvenate neglected hedges. It requires fertile, deep, well-drained and constantly moderately moist soil; it tolerates prolonged drought and salinity poorly, which is why it browns on the roadward side along salted roads. It grows best in a mild, moist climate — in areas with harsh, snowless winters young specimens are sometimes damaged by winter desiccation and need a sheltered position. The base of a dense hedge creates a dry shade in which only a few ground-cover perennials will cope.
Trivia
- In the wild it ranks among the tallest and mightiest trees in the world — wild specimens exceed 60 m in height and the oldest are over a thousand years old; in hedge and garden cultivation, however, it lives considerably shorter.
- The specific epithet plicata means "folded, pleated" and refers to the arrangement of the scales on the flattened sprays.
- Despite the English name "red cedar" it is not a cedar — cedars (Cedrus) belong to the pine family, while western red cedar belongs to the cypress family (Cupressaceae).
- The fruity, pineapple-like scent of a crushed spray is a simple way to tell it apart from white cedar, which smells sharp and resinous.
Frequently asked questions
How does western red cedar differ from white cedar (Thuja occidentalis)?
Western red cedar grows faster and taller, has a darker, glossier green, a sweet, fruity scent when crushed and white, butterfly-shaped waxy markings on the underside of the sprays, and in winter it discolours less and dies back less often in dense hedges. White cedar, on the other hand, is distinctly more frost-hardy (zone 3a against about 5b–6 for red cedar) and has a clearly visible resin gland on the scales. From nurseries, Atrovirens and Martin (T. plicata) as well as Smaragd and Brabant (T. occidentalis) are mainly sold for hedging.
Does western red cedar really grow faster than ordinary thuja?
Yes. In favourable conditions it adds from a dozen to several dozen centimetres a year, faster than most white cedar cultivars, so it forms a dense, tall wall of greenery sooner. This is one of the main reasons it is chosen for hedges in place of white cedar.
Can western red cedar be pruned hard?
Yes, and this is a significant advantage over white cedar. As one of the few conifers, it can put out new shoots even from older, partly leafless wood, so a neglected or overly wide hedge can be rejuvenated with harder pruning. It is best done in spring or late summer, not during frosts or drought.
Is western red cedar resistant to thuja dieback and browning?
It is markedly less prone than white cedar to dieback in dense, poorly ventilated hedges and browns less in winter. It is not, however, completely resistant — browning of the scales appears with desiccation, salinity, planting too deep or as a result of root diseases, so correct planting and regular watering remain the basis.
Will western red cedar survive a Polish winter?
In most of the country, yes — the species is frost-hardy roughly to USDA zone 5b–6, which covers the majority of Poland. It is, however, more sensitive to frost than white cedar, so in the coldest, snowless north-eastern regions it is better to choose a sheltered position and, for the first winters, mulch young specimens and protect them from winter desiccation.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Thuja plicataInstitution / botanical garden
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