Flamingo flower

Anthurium andraeanum · Flamingo flower (EN) · Große Flamingoblume (DE)

The flamingo flower (Anthurium andraeanum) is a tropical houseplant with glossy, heart-shaped leaves and shiny, waxy flower spathes in red, pink or white, flowering indoors almost without a break.

Partial shade High watering Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • Position: bright, but without direct sun — an east-facing window is best.
  • A loose, aerated substrate similar to an orchid mix; constantly slightly moist.
  • It requires high air humidity — in a dry home the leaf margins turn brown.
  • In good conditions it flowers all year round, and a single inflorescence lasts 6–8 weeks.
  • It contains calcium oxalates — toxic to people, dogs and cats.

Botanical data

Family
Araceae (Araceae)
Height
0.3–0.6 m
Width
0.3–0.5 m
Habit
Clump-forming
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Peaty
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moist
Bloom
January–December
Hardiness
Propagation
By division, From cuttings

Characteristics

A perennial with a short, thickened stem from which long-stalked, leathery leaves with a heart-shaped base grow. What passes for the flower is in fact the spathe (a bract) — a modified, strongly coloured leaf with a characteristic lacquered sheen. The true flowers are tiny structures densely covering the yellow or cream spadix protruding from the spathe. The plant also produces thick aerial roots at the base.

Growing and care

Watering

The substrate is to be constantly slightly moist — neither dried out nor sodden. Stood or rain water; hard tap water produces brown spots on the leaves. High air humidity (60–70%) is crucial.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Half the manufacturer's dose — the anthurium has a delicate root system and is easily salinated. A fertiliser with a raised phosphorus content supports the setting of inflorescences.

every 2–3 weeks from March to September · nawóz do roślin kwitnących, nawóz do storczyków

Planting

A very loose, aerated substrate: pine bark, peat, perlite and moss — close to an orchid mix. The pot rather tight, necessarily with drainage; the aerial roots do not have to be buried.

Timing: repotting in spring, every 2 years

Pruning

Cut out spent inflorescences and yellowing leaves right at the base of the stalk, with a clean tool.

Timing: As needed, after flowering. · Caution: Do not shorten healthy leaves — they supply the plant with the energy needed for flowering.

Companion plants

Good companions

Peace lilyPractical observation

The closest relative in indoor cultivation — the same light and water requirements and the same need for humid air.

Zebra plantPractical observation

Both species need partial shade and high humidity; placed together they create a humid microclimate from which both benefit.

Boston fernPractical observation

The fern raises the air humidity around the anthurium and has identical position requirements.

Bad companions

Cacti and other succulentsPractical observation

Full sun and a dry root ball mean scorched leaves and no flowering for the anthurium.

Snake plantPractical observation

The sansevieria requires long breaks between waterings, and the anthurium constant moisture — under shared care one of them will always suffer.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Mealybugs

Insects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.

Armoured and soft scale insects

Immobile, brown or yellowish shields (1-4 mm) attached to stems and the underside of leaves, especially along the veins. Easily mistaken for growths on the plant. They suck sap, causing yellowing and weakening, and excrete sticky honeydew. Common on figs, orchids and plants with tough leaves. The collective name covers two groups with different biology. Armoured scales (Diaspididae) have a hard waxy shield separate from the body, which can be prised off - beneath it emerges a tiny, legless and wingless female; they do not excrete honeydew. Soft scales (Coccidae) have a convex, cup-shaped cover fused with the body, and it is they that excrete it abundantly. Sticky honeydew - the domain of soft scales and other honeydew-producing scale insects, not of armoured scales - settles on the leaves and attracts sooty mould fungi (sooty mould, sooty blotch) as well as ants, which defend the colony against predators. The only mobile feeding stage is the crawler - a flat, tiny larva which, after hatching from beneath the mother's shield, disperses over the plant, then settles, inserts its stylet into the conducting tissues and loses the ability to move; adult females remain immobile for the rest of their lives. Males pupate and, as tiny, winged, short-lived insects, do not feed. In heated interiors the pest breeds all year round, producing several overlapping generations; outdoors usually 1-3 generations, and fertilised females or eggs hidden beneath the shield overwinter. Feeding symptoms are yellowing and premature leaf drop, dieback of shoots, stunting and weakening of the plant, and secondarily a black coating of sooty mould on leaves covered with honeydew. On fruit trees infested by San Jose scale (Comstockaspis perniciosa), reddish discolouration appears around the feeding sites, and heavily colonised branches die back. Because the shields are immobile and their colour blends into the bark and veins, an infestation is easily overlooked until honeydew appears or the plant is noticeably weakened - which is why regular inspection of the leaf undersides and shoot axils is key.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Moderate All parts contain needle-like calcium oxalate crystals. Eating or biting a leaf causes burning and swelling of the lips, tongue and throat as well as drooling; sap in the eye gives painful irritation. The symptoms are milder than after dumb cane, but still require caution around children.
Dogs Moderate Oxalates cause pain in the mouth, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing.
Cats Moderate Symptoms as in dogs — irritation of the mucous membranes after chewing leaves or the inflorescence.

History and origin

The species was discovered in Colombia in the second half of the 19th century and named after Édouard André — the French botanist and garden designer who documented the plants of the Andes. Its coloured, long-lasting spathe quickly made it one of the most important species in the cut-flower trade; today's pot cultivars are the result of decades of breeding, mainly Dutch.

Uses

For bright living rooms and offices with diffused light, especially where a long-lasting flowering effect is expected. It does well in a bathroom with a window, where air humidity is naturally higher. The inflorescences are also suitable as cut flowers.

Trivia

  • The lacquered sheen of the spathe is not the effect of waxing — it is a natural structure of the cell surface, one of the most glossy in the plant world.
  • The anthurium is among the longest-lasting cut flowers: in a vase it can hold for as long as six weeks, longer than most decorative species.

Frequently asked questions

Why is the anthurium not flowering?

Most often it lacks light — although it does not tolerate direct sun, it needs a genuinely bright, diffusely lit position to set inflorescences. The second cause is a fertiliser high in nitrogen, which stimulates leaves at the expense of flowers; it is worth switching to a fertiliser for flowering plants or orchids.

Why have the anthurium's red flowers turned green?

The greening of older spathes is a natural stage of their ageing and is no cause for concern. If, however, new inflorescences emerge green and small from the outset, the cause is usually too little light or an excess of nitrogen in the fertiliser.

Why does the anthurium have brown leaf margins?

This is most often the effect of air that is too dry indoors or of watering with hard tap water. Misting helps, as does standing the pot on a tray of moist expanded clay and watering with stood or rain water. It is also worth checking that the plant is not within reach of the stream of heat from a radiator.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/16/2026.

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