In short
- A winter salad — sown in August-September for harvest from autumn through spring.
- Exceptionally frost-hardy: the rosettes withstand frosts of around -15°C, and even lower under cover.
- The genus Valerianella is distinct from common valerian (Valeriana officinalis).
- The seeds germinate poorly in warmth — above about 20°C they enter thermal dormancy.
- Undemanding; excess nitrogen is deliberately avoided because of nitrate accumulation in winter.
Botanical data
- Family
- Caprifoliaceae (Caprifoliaceae)
- Height
- 0.1–0.4 m
- Width
- 0.1–0.15 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 6.5–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- April–June
- Hardiness
- USDA 5a–9a
- Propagation
- From seed
Characteristics
Corn salad is a low annual forming a flat, ground-hugging rosette of small, spoon-shaped leaves 3-8 cm long, smooth-edged, matt green and slightly fleshy. The rosette usually reaches 10-15 cm across and about the same in height; it is this rosette that is the edible part. In spring, as the day lengthens and temperatures rise, the plant sends up a forked, branching flowering stem growing to 30-40 cm, tipped with clusters of tiny, pale-blue flowers about 2 mm across. The fruit is a small, hard nutlet. The root system is shallow and fibrous, which makes the plant react quickly to drying of the topsoil but also makes it easy to sow directly in place. Its most important practical trait is outstanding frost hardiness: the rosettes withstand frosts of around -15°C, and under a cover of horticultural fleece or a layer of snow they survive still lower temperatures, thawing out undamaged. As a result, corn salad stays green and fit for harvest right through winter, when most leafy vegetables long since finished their growth.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Verte de Cambrai’
- A historic French small-leaved variety: small, dark-green, compact rosettes and exceptional frost hardiness, which makes it a classic for the latest, winter harvests. It grows more slowly and yields less than broad-leaved varieties, but stands up better to sharp frosts.
- ‘Dunkelgrüner Vollherziger’
- An old, established German variety ('dark-green full-hearted') with compact, dark-green rosettes. Prized for its frost hardiness and good filling of the rosette centre; one of the most frequently sown traditional types in the German-speaking countries.
- ‘Grote Noordhollandse’
- A Dutch broad-leaved variety with larger, lighter leaves and faster growth, giving a higher yield per unit area. In exchange it is less frost-hardy than the small-leaved types, so it does better in earlier, autumn harvests than in the depths of winter.
- ‘Vit’
- A variety with smooth, glossy, slightly elongated leaves and fast, even growth, tolerant of downy mildew. Thanks to its vigour it is recommended both for autumn and for early-spring harvest.
Growing and care
Watering
Grown mainly in the cool part of the year, so its water needs are small. What matters is even moisture during germination and emergence — the shallow root system reacts quickly to drying of the topsoil.
Fertilizing
An undemanding plant — soil in good condition is enough. Excess nitrogen is deliberately avoided, because a salad harvested in winter under low sunlight readily accumulates nitrates.
Planting
Free-draining, not too acidic soil in good condition; sown directly in place in rows 10-15 cm apart. In hot, early August dates it is worth cooling and moistening the drill, because the seeds germinate poorly in warm ground.
Pruning
Cut whole rosettes with a knife just above the ground; with a gentle cut the plant can put out a second, smaller harvest.
Diseases and pests
Yellow or angular (vein-bounded) spots on the upper leaf surface, matched underneath by a grey-violet or brown coating of spores. It differs from powdery mildew, whose white coating sits on the upper surface. It develops in humidity and cool nights and is dangerous to cucumbers, onions and grapevines. The spots are initially light green or yellowing, and their angular, mosaic-like shape arises because the pathogen's spread is halted by the larger leaf veins. The delicate, felt-like coating on the underside (hence the name 'mildew') is the sporulation of the oomycete — best seen in the morning or after a period of high air humidity. Over time the spots turn brown, dry out and merge, the leaf dies prematurely, which weakens the whole plant and lowers the yield. The disease is highly host-specialised: cucumbers and squashes are attacked by Pseudoperonospora cubensis, onion by Peronospora destructor, grapevine by Plasmopara viticola, and lettuce by Bremia lactucae — so infection of one species usually does not spread to unrelated crops.
Sclerotinia rot (white mould)On the stems, at the base of the plants and on parts in contact with the soil, a watery, soft rot appears, covered with a dense, white, cottony fungal mycelium. Within the tissue and on its surface, black, hard resting bodies (sclerotia) the size of a grain form, which are a diagnostic feature. Infected plants wilt, snap and die; the disease attacks many species of vegetables and ornamentals. The infection usually begins as a pale, watery, almost translucent spot that quickly enlarges into a soft rot; in humid air it becomes overgrown with the characteristic, cotton-white mycelium. As the disease progresses, the infected stem becomes girdled and constricted and loses its rigidity, so that the plant above the point of infection wilts and dies, while the tissue, once dried out, bleaches and turns dry, stringy and frayed. The inside of affected stems (the pith) is often hollow and filled with black sclerotia the size of cereal grains — this is the most reliable feature distinguishing this disease. Sclerotinia infects a very wide range of hosts (including lettuce, beans, cucumbers, carrot, brassicas, sunflower, oilseed rape and numerous perennials and ornamentals), and the rot also develops after harvest, in stored roots and heads. In spring, small, cream-brown, cup-shaped fruiting bodies (apothecia) grow from the sclerotia lying in the soil and release ascospores, which infect plants most often through spent petals and weakened tissues.
Damping-off of seedlings (black leg)Seedlings and young transplants suddenly wilt, topple over and die, often in patches. At the base of the stem, just above the soil surface, the root collar turns black, softens and constricts, so the plant loses its support and falls over. Seeds may also rot before emergence, which shows as sparse, uneven emergence of vegetable transplants, annual flowers and herbs raised from seed. Two phases are distinguished: pre-emergence damping-off (rotting of the germinating seeds, absence or gaps in emergence) and post-emergence damping-off (toppling of seedlings that have already emerged). The exact picture depends on the pathogen. With infection by oomycetes (Pythium) the rot is watery, translucent and soft — the constricted stem looks as if 'cut with a knife', and the seedling falls flat, especially in cold and excess water. Rhizoctonia solani produces a brown to rusty-red constriction, the tissue is drier and more pinched than watery, the seedling may remain standing for some time, and a delicate, brown, cobweb-like mycelium is sometimes visible on the surface of the medium and on the collar. Fusarium causes wilting with yellowing and discoloration at the base and of the roots. The focus spreads in a circular, patchy way from the first infected seedling, because the pathogen travels through the moist medium and water; the roots of diseased seedlings are brown, poorly developed, with sloughing bark.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | — |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
Corn salad originally grew wild as a weed of arable fields and stubble across Europe, the Mediterranean basin, North Africa and western Asia, where it was gathered from natural sites long before it was brought into gardens. Cultivation most likely began in France in the 17th century; from there it spread throughout Western and Central Europe as a cheap, undemanding winter salad. Botanically it belongs to the genus Valerianella, closely related to common valerian (Valeriana officinalis) — the two plants were once grouped in the valerian family (Valerianaceae), which modern systematics (APG) has folded into the honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae). The plant gained particular popularity in the German-speaking countries, where under the names Feldsalat, Nusslisalat (Switzerland) or Rapunzel it remains to this day the most widely grown and bought salad of the winter season, its mild, nutty flavour becoming something of a culinary hallmark of the cold time of year.
Uses
Corn salad is sown directly in the ground, mainly from August to mid-September, for an autumn-winter and early-spring harvest; an early-spring sowing (March-April) is also possible. The seeds are sown shallowly, to a depth of about 1 cm, in rows 10-15 cm apart, with the plants left at a spacing of 5-10 cm. Germination is best in cool soil — above about 20°C the seeds enter thermal dormancy and emerge poorly, so with early, hot August dates it is worth cooling and moistening the drill. The plant is undemanding: it tolerates average soils, provided they are free-draining and not too acidic, and it does not need intensive fertilising. Excess nitrogen is in fact avoided, because corn salad — like other leafy vegetables harvested in winter under low sunlight — readily accumulates nitrates; for this reason harvesting in the second half of the day is recommended. Whole rosettes are cut with a knife just above the ground; with a gentle cut the plant can put out a second, smaller harvest. Corn salad also does well in balcony boxes and pots. In the kitchen it is served almost exclusively raw — its fleshy, nutty-tasting leaves are prized in salads, often combined with beetroot, nuts or smoked fish. Left to itself it readily self-seeds, appearing spontaneously in later seasons.
Trivia
- One of the German folk names for corn salad is 'Rapunzel'; the same name belongs to the plant in the Brothers Grimm fairy tale of that title, though scholars also point here to rampion bellflower (Campanula rapunculus).
- The genus Valerianella is related to common valerian, the former source of valerian's calming herbs, yet corn salad itself has no medicinal action — it is a leafy vegetable, not a herb.
- The rosettes can freeze stiff and, after thawing, return to full crispness, which is why corn salad is a classic 'salad from under the snow'.
- Nutritionally it ranks among the richest salads: it contains more vitamin C, folic acid, iron and beta-carotene than most popular leafy vegetables.
Frequently asked questions
When should corn salad be sown?
The main window is August and the first half of September — this gives a harvest from autumn, through winter, right into early spring. It can also be sown in early spring (March-April) for a late-spring harvest. In summer heat sowing often fails, because the seeds germinate poorly in warm soil.
Will corn salad survive winter in the ground?
Yes — this is its greatest asset. The rosettes withstand frosts of around -15°C and stay fit for harvest right through winter. In snowless, sharp frosts it is worth covering the crop with horticultural fleece, which protects the leaves and makes harvesting from under the cover easier.
How is corn salad harvested?
Whole rosettes are cut with a knife just above the soil surface, so that the leaves hold together. With a gentle cut that leaves the lowest leaflets, the plant can shoot again and give a second, smaller harvest.
Why does corn salad emerge poorly after an August sowing?
The most common cause is soil that is too warm. Above about 20°C corn salad seeds enter thermal dormancy and germinate unevenly. It helps to sow in cooler, moist soil, to shade and water the drill, or to move the sowing to cooler days.
Does corn salad accumulate nitrates?
Yes, like other leafy vegetables harvested in winter under short days and low sunlight. That is why it is not over-fertilised with nitrogen, and harvesting is done in the second half of the day, once the plants have had time to process some of the accumulated nitrogen compounds.
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