In short
- Blooms in April on the previous year's shoots, before the leaves emerge.
- Prune only immediately after flowering — it sets next year's buds in summer on this year's new growth.
- Prompt pruning after flowering is also a sanitary measure: brown rot enters through the dying flowers.
- Double-flowered forms are sterile — they set practically no fruit and provide pollinators with neither pollen nor nectar.
- The name is misleading: this is not a source of edible almonds (those come from Prunus dulcis).
Botanical data
- Family
- Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
- Height
- 2.5–4 m
- Width
- 2.5–4 m
- Habit
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich, Sandy, Chalky
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- April–April
- Hardiness
- USDA 4a–7a
- Propagation
- From cuttings
Characteristics
A multi-stemmed, spreading shrub with erect shoots that arch over with age. The Royal Horticultural Society gives the species an ultimate size of 2.5-4 m in height and the same in width, reached after 5-10 years; the Missouri Botanical Garden gives 3-4.5 m in both dimensions for the cultivar Multiplex. In the garden the shrub is often distinctly smaller, because the hard annual post-flowering pruning recommended for this species steadily shortens the shoots. The flowers open before the leaves, singly or in pairs, more rarely in greater numbers, from buds set the previous summer along the whole length of the previous year's shoots — a shrub in full bloom therefore looks like a pink column, with no green backdrop. In the double-flowered form dominant in nurseries the flower is about 4 cm across, densely double, softly pink and resembles a miniature rose; in the single-flowered form (f. simplex), corresponding to the wild plant, the flowers are five-petalled, white-pink and distinctly smaller — about 2-2.5 cm. The leaves develop only after flowering: obovate, roughly 2.5-6 cm long, doubly and coarsely toothed, and often clearly three-lobed at the tip. It is exactly this detail that gave the species the epithet triloba and the Polish name "trojklapowy" (three-lobed), and it is at the same time the simplest identifying feature once the flowering season is over. The shoots of double-flowered cultivars are sterile and set practically no fruit; the single-flowered form produces red, roundish, downy fruitlets about 1.3 cm across. The shrub needs a sunny, sheltered position, tolerates clay and calcareous soils within a pH range of 6.0-7.5, but does not tolerate waterlogging. The wood is markedly more frost-hardy than the open flowers — the real limitation in cultivation is not midwinter cold but frosts during flowering, which can destroy the entire bloom in a single night.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Multiplex’
- The double-flowered form, by far the most commonly found in the trade; it is the one responsible for the popular image of the species. The flowers are about 4 cm across, densely double, softly pink and sterile, so the plant sets practically no fruit. Brought from China by Robert Fortune and introduced into cultivation in 1855; awarded the British RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1935. In nurseries it is most often offered as a grafted plant, including in standard form on a stem.
Growing and care
Watering
Once established it tolerates moderate drought and needs watering mainly in the first season and during long heatwaves. It reacts decidedly badly to standing water — wet, compacted soil favours root rot. Specimens grafted on a stem and grown in containers dry out considerably faster than plants in the ground, and in summer must be checked every few days.
Fertilizing
Feeding should support the new growth that breaks out after pruning — it is on this growth that next spring's buds are set in summer. Avoid large doses of nitrogen in late summer: soft, unripened shoots overwinter more poorly and are more easily invaded by brown rot.
Planting
A sunny position sheltered from wind, ideally against a south- or west-facing wall — this protects the flowers from spring frosts. The soil should be fertile, humus-rich and free-draining; the shrub tolerates clay and calcareous substrates well, but does not tolerate spots where water stands after rain. Do not plant in hollows in the ground where cold air collects (so-called frost pockets).
Pruning
Shorten the spent shoots hard, by roughly two thirds of their length; neglected, overcrowded shrubs are cut even lower, to a few to a dozen or so centimetres above the base of the shoot. The aim is to force long, strong one-year shoots, because it is these that will set flower buds in summer for the following spring. At the same time, cut out dry, broken shoots and those growing into the centre of the shrub.
Companion plants
Good companions
Oba krzewy kwitną na pędach zeszłorocznych i wymagają dokładnie tego samego zabiegu: mocnego cięcia zaraz po przekwitnieniu. Posadzone w jednej grupie porządkują kalendarz prac — jeden termin cięcia obsługuje całe nasadzenie, a żółte kwiaty forsycji poprzedzają i częściowo nakładają się na różowe kwitnienie migdałka.
Kwitnienie szafirków nakłada się na kwitnienie migdałka w kwietniu, a niebieskie kwiatostany u nasady bezlistnego jeszcze krzewu dają kontrastowe tło. Cebule nie konkurują o miejsce — kończą wegetację, zanim migdałek rozwinie liście i zacieni podłoże.
Lilak zakwita w maju i czerwcu, czyli tuż po migdałku, przedłużając sezon kwitnienia grupy krzewów. Podobnie jak migdałek kwitnie na pędach zeszłorocznych i tnie się go po przekwitnieniu, więc oba mają zgodny rytm pielęgnacji.
Bad companions
Gatunki z rodzaju Prunus są bardzo wrażliwe na juglon — allelopatyczny związek wydzielany przez korzenie orzecha, hamujący ich wzrost i prowadzący do zamierania.
Migdałek i wiśnia porażane są przez tego samego sprawcę moniliowej zgorzeli — Monilinia laxa. Rosnąc obok siebie, wzajemnie dostarczają sobie zarodników i zwiększają presję choroby; jeśli sąsiedztwa nie da się uniknąć, tym staranniej trzeba wycinać zamarłe pędy z obu roślin.
Migdałek nie znosi zastoisk wody — podlewanie i ściółkowanie dostosowane do roślin bagiennych szybko prowadzi u niego do zgnilizny korzeni.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
On pome and stone fruit, brown, enlarging rot spots appear, on which concentrically arranged, grey-beige cushions of spores form. Infected fruit rot, dry out and mummify, often remaining on the tree until the next season. In spring the fungus also infects blossoms and short shoots, causing them to die back and killing the branch tips. The disease has two distinct phases. Spring blossom and twig blight (most often Monilinia laxa on stone fruit — sour cherry, sweet cherry, plum, apricot) begins on the blossoms, which turn brown, wilt and dry out without dropping; the infection enters through the stigma and style into the short shoot, girdles it and causes whole shoots to die back, with withered leaves hanging as if scorched — hence the misleading resemblance to frost damage. On stone fruit, infected shoots often exude gum (gummosis) and develop small, cracked bark cankers. The summer-to-autumn brown rot of the fruit (mainly Monilinia fructigena on apple and pear) develops on ripening fruit: the rot spot quickly engulfs the whole fruit, the flesh turns brown and softens, and characteristic, concentrically arranged rings of cream-beige cushions of conidial spores grow out on the surface. In cool conditions (including in storage), the fruit may take the form of hard, black glossy mummies lacking sporulation (so-called black rot). Mummified fruit hanging on the tree and Monilinia cankers on the shoots are the main source of spores in the following season.
Bacterial canker of stone fruitSunken, necrotic wounds (cankers) form on the trunk and branches, from which – especially in spring – amber gum oozes (gummosis). The bark over the wounds dies and cracks, and infected buds and short shoots fail to break or die in spring, so whole sections of the crown dry out. Small, brown, watery spots may appear on the leaves and fall out of the blade ('shot-hole'). The disease affects stone-fruit trees – sour cherry, sweet cherry, plum, peach and apricot – and when it girdles a branch it kills it. The cause is two bacterial pathovars — Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae and pv. morsprunorum — with similar symptoms that cannot be told apart with the naked eye. A characteristic early symptom is the dying of buds and flowers in spring (so-called blossom blast): buds turn brown and fail to open, and individual branches suddenly wilt and dry out, holding their browned leaves for a long time. The gum oozing from the cankers is glassy to amber and appears most abundantly in spring and early summer, after the sap starts to flow; in high summer the ooze usually stops. When the bark is cut at the edge of a canker, the tissue beneath is often watery, rusty-brown, with a sour, fermenting smell (typical of pv. syringae). The leaf spots are at first small, angular, watery and surrounded by a lighter halo; their dead centres crumble away, producing a 'shot-hole' effect. The symptoms are easily confused with frost damage to the bark and with fungal shoot dieback (brown rot) and fungal shot-hole of the leaves (Wilsonomyces carpophilus) — the key then is the season of peak activity and the presence of fungal sporulation. The disease intensifies in cool, wet weather in spring and autumn; in summer, in warmth and drought, the bacterium is least active.
Armillaria root rot (honey fungus)The fungus attacks the roots and stem base of trees and shrubs, causing their slow decline – the plants grow weakly, the crown thins, the leaves become smaller, and eventually they dry up. The diagnostic sign is white, fan-shaped sheets of fungal mycelium forming a dense layer under the bark at the stem base, with a distinct mushroom smell. In the soil and under the bark there are black or dark-brown, bootlace-like rhizomorphs, by which the fungus spreads to further plants. In autumn, clusters of fruiting bodies – honey mushrooms – grow at the base of infected trees. The above-ground symptoms are non-specific and easily confused with drought or overfeeding: some plants die suddenly (the whole tree turns brown within a single season, especially in hot weather), while others weaken over years – producing short growth, discolouring prematurely, and just before death setting an exceptionally heavy crop of flowers or fruit ('stress flowering'). In conifers, resin bleeding at the stem base is common. When the bark is exposed at the root collar, the wood of the roots and stem turns white and softly rots – honey fungus causes a white rot of the wood. The mycelial layer can be cream-coloured and leathery, spreading radially from beneath the dead bark. A biological curiosity, rather than a sign useful in garden diagnosis, is that the mycelium in moist, infected wood can glow very faintly in the dark (so-called 'cold light') – the effect is too weak and requires complete darkness, so in practice it cannot be used to identify the disease. The disease advances in foci – neighbouring plants die off one after another around an infected one.
Powdery mildewA white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Brown scaleA soft scale whose females form brown, dome-shaped, strongly convex "cups" (3–6 mm) sitting motionless on shoots, twigs and leaf bases. They suck sap, weakening the plants, and excrete abundant honeydew on which black sooty mould develops, disfiguring leaves and fruit. It feeds on fruit trees (plum, peach), grapevine, ornamental shrubs and houseplants. It belongs to the soft scales (Coccidae), not to the true armoured scales — its brown shield is the sclerotized body of the female and cannot be separated from her. In the Polish climate it usually develops one generation per year. It overwinters as an immature larva (second instar) attached to shoots and twigs, in bark crevices and near the buds. In spring the larvae resume feeding and the females grow quickly, turning into the characteristic, hardening "cups". Beneath its shield the mature female lays numerous eggs — often from several hundred to over a thousand. The crawling larvae (so-called crawlers) that hatch from them, usually at the turn of June and July, spread out onto the leaves and young shoots, where they attach and feed; before leaf fall they return to the shoots to overwinter. Symptoms of infestation are weakened growth and dieback of twigs under heavy attack, sticky, glossy honeydew on the leaves and beneath the plant, a black sooty coating that hampers photosynthesis, and numerous ants feeding on the honeydew. The larvae and females cluster in the forks of twigs, on the undersides of shoots, at the base of the leaves and along the veins and leaf stalks.
Leaf-roller moths (tortricids)The caterpillars roll, fold and glue leaves together with a webbing of silk threads, creating shelters in which they feed hidden from view. When disturbed they wriggle violently backwards and drop on threads, which aids their identification; the adults are small moths with a bell-shaped outline of the folded wings. The host plants are fruit trees (apple, pear, plum), ornamental shrubs and roses. Symptoms: the caterpillars chew leaves, flower buds and fruit set and damage the skin of ripening fruit, reducing its value. The name covers many species of the family Tortricidae with a similar way of life - among them the summer fruit tortrix (Adoxophyes orana) and the rose tortrix (Archips rosana). The caterpillars are slender, up to about 1.5-2 cm long, usually light or olive green with a darker head and prothoracic plate, and very active. The moths have a wingspan of about 15-25 mm; at rest they fold the forewings roof-like, giving the characteristic bell-shaped (trapezoidal) outline, and their pattern is greyish-brown with a darker cross-band. The life cycle depends on the species: leaf-rollers overwinter as eggs laid in patches on the bark or as young caterpillars hidden in bark crevices and under bud scales; in spring they bore into the swelling buds, then move onto the leaves and fruit set, and one or two generations develop over the season. A diagnostic feature on pome fruit is the attachment of a leaf to the fruit and the shallow grazing of the skin beneath it, which leaves irregular, corky scars while the flesh deeper inside remains intact. On roses and ornamental shrubs the symptom is rolled young leaflets bound with webbing and hollowed-out buds.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | Despite the name "flowering almond", this is not an edible plant — the shop almond comes from a different species, Prunus dulcis. The seeds and leaves of the flowering almond, as in the other plants of the genus Prunus, contain cyanogenic glycosides that release hydrogen cyanide. Double-flowered cultivars are sterile and set practically no fruit. |
| Dogs | Mild | The risk concerns chewed seeds and leaves eaten in larger quantity. |
| Cats | Mild | The risk concerns chewed seeds and leaves eaten in larger quantity. |
| Horses | Moderate | The wilting leaves of plants of the genus Prunus release especially large amounts of hydrogen cyanide — after pruning, the branches must not be thrown onto pasture or within reach of animals. |
History and origin
The species reached European gardens by an unusual route: the garden selection became known first, and only later the wild plant. The double-flowered form was brought from China by the Scottish plant hunter Robert Fortune and entered cultivation in 1855; the single-flowered form, corresponding to the natural plant, was introduced to horticulture later and remains far rarer in cultivation. The species was described by John Lindley — hence the authorship of the name Prunus triloba Lindl. In the literature and older catalogues one encounters the synonyms Amygdalus triloba and Louiseania triloba. The double-flowered cultivar Multiplex received the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit in 1935 and remains to this day the form most commonly found in the trade. In nurseries the plant is usually offered as a specimen grafted onto a Prunus rootstock — in shrub form or on a stem, with a light, rounded crown. It is this grafting, rather than the species' natural habit, that is responsible for the popular image of the flowering almond as a "little tree".
Uses
A single-season plant in effect: for two or three weeks of April it is one of the most spectacular shrubs in the garden, and for the rest of the year it remains an ordinary green shrub with no ornamental qualities (the leaves colour poorly in autumn). It therefore performs best where it can recede into the background after flowering — at the back of a border, at the edge of a group of shrubs, beside a path leading into the garden. As a specimen it needs about 2.5-4 m of space, that being the ultimate spread of the shrub; in group planting it is worth keeping a spacing of at least 2.5 m. The form grafted on a stem, placed singly by a terrace or in a large container, works well in small gardens and courtyards; in a container, however, watering must be watched, because the root ball dries out faster than in the ground. The classic combination is leafless, pink shoots above blue bulbs flowering at the same time — grape hyacinths and squills; neighbours that flower later, such as lilac or spirea, take over the role once the flowering almond has finished. Because the double flowers offer no forage, in a planting designed with insects in mind the flowering almond should be treated purely as a decorative element and combined with genuinely nectar-rich species flowering at the same time — goat willow or flowering currant. The cut branches have a separate, practical use: taken in late winter and placed in water, they come into bloom indoors, and such cutting does not harm the shrub if it is limited to a few shoots.
Trivia
- Branches cut in late winter and placed in water come into bloom in a warm room even before their flowering time in the garden — forsythia and goat willow are forced in exactly the same way.
- The abundant flowering of double-flowered cultivars is ornamental but ecologically empty: the stamens and pistils, transformed into petals, offer insects neither pollen nor nectar. Only the single-flowered form has value for pollinators.
- In the English-language trade the plant is sometimes sold under the name "Rose Tree of China", although all it shares with roses is membership of the rose family and the look of the double flower.
Frequently asked questions
When and how should the flowering almond be pruned?
Immediately after flowering, usually at the turn of April and May — no later. The spent shoots are cut back hard, by roughly two thirds of their length, and neglected shrubs even lower. The pruning is meant to force long, strong one-year shoots, because it is precisely these that will set flower buds in summer for the following spring.
Why did my flowering almond fail to bloom, or bloom very sparsely?
The most common cause is pruning at the wrong time. The shrub blooms on the previous year's shoots, so any pruning in autumn, winter or early spring removes the ready-formed flower buds. The second typical cause is an April frost that destroys the developed buds and flowers, although the wood itself stays healthy — the shrub then simply sits out the year. The third is too much shade: in partial shade the plant grows, but flowers distinctly less than in full sun.
After flowering the shoot tips are dying back together with the leaves — what is this?
This is the typical picture of brown rot blossom blight (Monilinia laxa), to which the flowering almond is exceptionally susceptible. The fungus enters through the dying flowers and moves down into the shoot; the withered leaves usually do not fall but hang as if scorched, which is sometimes mistaken for frost damage. Affected shoots must be cut out with a margin, a dozen or so centimetres below the visible edge of healthy tissue, in dry weather and disinfecting the tools. This is also the main reason why post-flowering pruning should not be delayed.
Does the flowering almond produce edible almonds?
No. The edible almond is a different species, Prunus dulcis. The double-flowered cultivars of the flowering almond are sterile and set practically no fruit, while the single-flowered form produces small, red, downy fruitlets of no culinary value. The seeds and leaves, as in the other plants of the genus Prunus, contain cyanogenic glycosides.
How does the flowering almond differ from the dwarf flowering almond (Prunus glandulosa)?
The dwarf flowering almond (Prunus glandulosa) is sometimes sold under very similar trade names, but it is a different species: it is distinctly shorter (to about 1.5 m), has narrow, lanceolate leaves with no lobes at the tip and smaller flowers. In the flowering almond the leaves are obovate and usually three-lobed at the end, and the flowers larger. The difference matters when buying cultivars: the popular double-flowered Alba Plena and Rosea Plena belong to the dwarf flowering almond, not to Prunus triloba.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Prunus trilobaDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Prunus trilobaInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: Prunus triloba 'Multiplex'Institution / botanical garden
- Bean's Trees and Shrubs Online — Prunus trilobaWebsite
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