In short
- Flowers only once a year, for three to four weeks from mid-June to early July, on last year's stems.
- Prune after flowering, and prune lightly — hard spring pruning removes flower buds that have already been set.
- Strongly fragrant; the petals keep their scent after drying — the apothecary use of the cultivar Officinalis rested on this property.
- Very hardy (zone 4) and undemanding: it tolerates moderately fertile, dry and limy soils as well as partial shade.
- On its own roots it spreads by underground suckers and in time forms a dense thicket.
Botanical data
- Family
- Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
- Height
- 0.5–1.5 m
- Width
- 1–1.5 m
- Habit
- Upright
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich, Chalky
- pH reaction
- pH 6.5–8
- Moisture
- Dry, Moderate
- Bloom
- June–July
- Hardiness
- USDA 4a–8b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, By layering, By runners
Characteristics
A low, dense shrub which, on its own roots, spreads by underground suckers and in time forms compact clumps. Wild forms usually reach 0.5–1 m in height and cultivars 1–1.5 m, with a width of 1–1.5 m. The stems are slender and upright, densely covered with numerous prickles of uneven length together with stiff bristles, some of them glandular — a clear difference from hybrid tea roses, which are armed with a few large, hooked prickles. The leaves are usually made up of 3–5 (less often 7) leaflets: dark green, thick, matt and rough to the touch, paler beneath. The matt texture of the leaf is the simplest way of telling gallica roses from the glossy foliage of modern roses. The flowers of the wild form are single and five-petalled, about 5–7 cm across, deep pink to crimson, with a boss of golden stamens in the centre; cultivars may be semi-double or fully double, in shades from pink through crimson to deep violet, often with the petals arranged in quarters. The flower stalks and sepals are covered with glandular hairs and smell resinous when rubbed. Flowering begins in mid-June, lasts about three to four weeks and reaches into early July; it is once-flowering — the shrub does not repeat in summer or autumn, whatever the pruning, feeding or deadheading. The flower buds are laid down on stems produced the previous season, and the whole pruning calendar follows from that single fact. After flowering, round, brick-red hips about 1–1.5 cm across are set, ripening from August. The requirements are distinctly lower than those of hybrid tea roses: the species tolerates free-draining and only moderately fertile soil with a neutral to alkaline reaction (pH 6.5–8.0; in the wild it often grows on limestone), copes well with drought once established, overwinters without protection and tolerates partial shade, although it flowers more freely in full sun.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Officinalis’
- Strictly a botanical variety (Rosa gallica var. officinalis), listed in the trade as a cultivar. Semi-double, crimson flowers with a visible boss of stamens, strongly scented; the shrub about 1–1.2 m. It was its petals that were dried at Provins for apothecary use, and it is this plant that the name apothecary's rose refers to.
- ‘Versicolor’
- Better known as Rosa Mundi. A sport of Officinalis with striped flowers — pale pink with crimson streaks, the pattern differing from flower to flower. In cultivation since at least the 16th century. Height and habit as in the parent plant; individual stems can revert to plain crimson and have to be cut out.
- ‘Charles de Mills’
- A cultivar of unrecorded origin, widely grown in the 19th century. Very large, fully double flowers, flat-opening and quartered, crimson-purple, strongly scented. The shrub about 1.2–1.5 m; the stems bend under the weight of the flowers, so it is sometimes grown against a low support.
- ‘Cardinal de Richelieu’
- Introduced in the first half of the 19th century, one of the darkest of the historic roses: pink buds opening to deep violet, almost plum-coloured flowers. The shrub about 1–1.2 m, with stems almost free of prickles. It is classed among the gallica roses, although some authors allow for Chinese roses in its parentage.
- ‘Tuscany Superb’
- Semi-double flowers, deep crimson to purple-black, with a distinct boss of golden stamens. Introduced in the 19th century as a more free-flowering, larger-flowered version of the older cultivar Tuscany, known as the velvet rose. An upright shrub, about 1–1.2 m.
Growing and care
Watering
Once established it copes with drought distinctly better than hybrid tea roses and gets through a normal summer without watering. The figures given apply to the first season after planting and to prolonged drought: water abundantly but infrequently, directing the water under the shrub — wetting the leaves encourages powdery mildew.
Fertilizing
It needs far less feeding than hybrid tea roses — a mulch of compost is usually enough. An excess of nitrogen produces lush, soft growth at the expense of flowering and worsens leaf health. Do not feed with nitrogen after July.
Planting
Free-draining, moderately fertile soil with a neutral to alkaline reaction (pH 6.5–8.0); it tolerates limy ground and distinctly drier soil than hybrid tea roses. An airy position. With shrubs on their own roots it is worth allowing for a root barrier from the outset.
Pruning
Light pruning: shorten the side shoots that have flowered by about two thirds, remove dead, diseased and crossing stems, and every few years cut a quarter to a third of the oldest stems out at ground level. In spring it is enough to remove frost-damaged and broken stems.
Companion plants
Good companions
Ma identyczne wymagania — pełne słońce, przepuszczalna, umiarkowanie sucha gleba — i kwitnie długo po przekwitnięciu róży, więc wypełnia lukę ozdobną od lipca.
Znosi te same suche, słoneczne stanowiska i nie konkuruje z płytkim systemem korzeniowym krzewu; kontrast fioletowych kłosów z karmazynem róży to klasyczne zestawienie rabatowe.
Tworzy zwartą, niską okrywę tolerującą suszę i półcień pod krzewem, ograniczając chwasty bez podnoszenia wilgotności wokół pędów.
Kwitną wczesną wiosną i kończą wegetację, zanim krzew wchodzi w okres największego zapotrzebowania na wodę (lipiec–sierpień), więc nie konkurują z nim w najtrudniejszym momencie sezonu.
Bad companions
Wymaga stale wilgotnej, kwaśnej gleby i osłoniętego półcienia — to przeciwieństwo suchszego, przewiewnego i lekko zasadowego stanowiska róży francuskiej; wspólna niecka podlewania szkodzi jednej z roślin.
Krzewy na własnych korzeniach wypuszczają podziemne odrosty, które przebijają się przez zwartą okrywę — w takim kobiercu nie da się ich selektywnie usuwać.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
Rose black spotBlack to dark-brown spots with ragged margins on rose leaves, surrounded by yellowing of the leaf blade. Infected leaves drop in large numbers, weakening the plant and reducing flowering. The disease intensifies in wet seasons and where air circulation is poor. The spots are usually round, from a few millimetres to about 1-1.5 cm across, and their most important diagnostic feature is the radially fringed, feathery margin - the mycelium spreads beneath the leaf cuticle in all directions, producing the characteristic 'star-shaped' edge (hence the German name Sternrußtau). Under heavy infection the spots merge into larger, irregular patches, and the surrounding yellowing spreads across more and more of the blade until the whole leaf turns yellow and drops. Small, dark conidial fruiting bodies (acervuli) appear on the upper surface of the spots, while the underside of the leaf remains free of any coating. Symptoms appear first on the lower, oldest leaves and gradually move up the shrub, because the spores are carried by water splashing up from the soil and from lower leaves. Small, purplish-red discolorations and blotches may appear on young, green shoots. Prolonged wetting of the leaves for several hours is required for the spores to germinate and infect, which is why the disease breaks out after warm, rainy spells. Repeated defoliation exhausts the shrub, limits flowering and worsens winter hardiness.
RustRusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
SawfliesThe larvae strongly resemble the caterpillars of butterflies and moths, but have more pairs of abdominal prolegs (six and more) and single ocelli on the sides of the head, by which they can be told apart. They often feed gregariously, skeletonising the leaves or eating them down to the veins, and can strip a gooseberry or currant bush bare within a few days. The host plants are gooseberry, currant, rose, plum and pine. Symptoms: besides the defoliation of leaves, the larvae of fruit-dwelling species (e.g. on plum) bore into the young fruit set and cause it to drop. Adult sawflies are small (a few millimetres) hymenopterans without a distinct 'wasp waist' — the abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax, which distinguishes them from wasps and bees; the females have a saw-like ovipositor (hence the name 'sawflies'), with which they cut into the tissue of a leaf or fruit set and lay their eggs inside it. The larvae are most often green, matching the colour of the leaf, in some species with dark warts or spots; their prolegs lack the grasping crochets that the caterpillars of moths have, and when disturbed the larvae of many species raise the rear end of the body into a characteristic 'S' shape. The most damaging groups are: the gooseberry sawfly (Nematus ribesii) on gooseberry and currant, stripping the bush from the inside out; the slug sawflies (genus Caliroa) on pear, cherry and plum, whose slimy, slug-like larvae graze away the upper skin of the leaf (windowing), so that the leaf turns brown as if scorched; the fruit sawflies of the genus Hoplocampa on plum and apple, tunnelling galleries into the young fruit set and leaving moist, foul-smelling droppings; and the conifer sawflies (Diprion, Neodiprion) on pine, feeding gregariously on the needles. Life cycle: the adults emerge in spring, the larvae feed for several weeks, after which they descend into the soil or leaf litter, where they pupate in a cocoon and overwinter as a larva (prepupa); depending on the species, 1–3 generations develop in a season.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | The petals are edible and are used in cooking. The inside of the fruit contains irritant hairs, which have to be removed when processing the hips. |
| Dogs | Mild | The densely prickly stems can cause mechanical injuries; the plant's tissues are not poisonous. |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
Rosa gallica is one of the oldest garden roses in Europe — it was known in ancient Greece and Rome, and in the Middle Ages it was grown on a large scale in monastery and town gardens as a medicinal plant. The main centre of that cultivation was Provins in France, where from the 13th century the petals of the cultivar Officinalis were dried for preserves, rose waters and astringent preparations; hence both the name rose of Provins and the English name apothecary's rose. The reason this particular species was chosen was purely practical: the petals of the French rose keep their scent after drying, which, given the storage methods of the day, determined the value of the raw material. Before repeat-flowering Chinese roses were brought to Europe around the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, the gallica rose was the mainstay of garden rose growing and gave rise to the damask and centifolia roses, and through them to the modern groups as well. The fashion for these roses peaked in the first half of the 19th century, when French nurseries listed hundreds of gallica cultivars in their catalogues; only a fraction of them survives today. The range of that period was recorded in the rose collection of the Empress Josephine at Malmaison, documented in the watercolours of Pierre-Joseph Redoute. The red rose of Lancaster from the English Wars of the Roses is traditionally identified with the cultivar Officinalis — this, however, is a historical and heraldic identification accepted in the garden literature, not a botanical determination.
Uses
The French rose works where hybrid tea roses take too much effort: in cottage and historic gardens, in naturalistic plantings, on banks and drier sites, and in gardens managed without intensive chemical protection. Thanks to its suckering and its dense armature of prickles it suits low, informal hedges and boundary plantings — it flowers briefly, but for the rest of the season it forms a compact, dark green and impenetrable wall. In the bed it is combined with perennials of similar requirements: catmint, woodland sage and cranesbills, planted at least 40 cm from the base of the shrub so that they do not compete for water or restrict airflow. Shrubs on their own roots are best planted where spreading does no harm, or given a root barrier sunk to about 40 cm from the outset — suckers can come up more than a metre from the shrub. Specimens budded onto a rootstock (most often dog rose, Rosa canina) spread less, but stems emerging below the bud union are then rootstock suckers and have to be removed. The petals have fragrance and culinary uses — for potpourri, rose water, rose sugar and rose preserves; they are picked in the morning, from fully open flowers, and only from shrubs that have not been sprayed. If autumn decoration from hips matters, the spent flowers are not removed at all. The species is not suitable for cut flowers: the stems are short, the flowers shatter quickly and the whole flowering lasts a few weeks a year — hybrid tea roses are the ones grown for the vase.
Trivia
- Roses produce virtually no nectar — insects visit them for pollen, and it is pollen that determines their value to pollinators. Real forage is provided only by single and semi-double flowers with exposed stamens, while fully double cultivars, in which the stamens have been turned into petals, are useless to pollinators.
- The petals of the French rose keep their scent after drying. The medieval trade in the dried rose of Provins rested on this single property, and today so does the usefulness of the species for potpourri.
- The cultivar Versicolor, better known as Rosa Mundi, arose as a sport, that is a bud mutation of the cultivar Officinalis. Individual stems sometimes revert to the uniformly crimson flowers of the parent plant — they are cut out at the base if the striped flowers are to be kept.
- The name apothecary's rose applies strictly to the botanical variety Rosa gallica var. officinalis and not to the whole species — in the trade, however, it is sometimes used interchangeably with the name of the species.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between the French rose and the hybrid tea rose?
There are several differences and each has a practical consequence. The French rose flowers once a year, for three to four weeks from mid-June to early July, on last year's stems; the hybrid tea rose flowers repeatedly from June to September, on the current year's growth. Hence the opposite pruning calendar: the gallica rose is pruned lightly after flowering, the hybrid tea hard in early spring. The French rose is also distinctly hardier (zone 4 without protection, against zone 5 with an earth mound), less demanding as to soil and feeding, better at coping with drought, and tolerant of partial shade and of limy ground. Its stems are densely covered with small prickles and bristles rather than with a few large prickles, and its leaves are matt and rough instead of glossy. Finally, the gallica rose is sometimes sold on its own roots and then spreads by suckers, whereas hybrid tea roses are practically always budded onto a rootstock.
When and how should you prune a French rose?
The main pruning is done after flowering, in July — never in early spring. The French rose flowers on last year's stems, so shortening them in spring removes flower buds that have already been set and leaves the shrub without flowers for the whole season. The pruning itself is light: the side shoots that have flowered are cut back by roughly two thirds of their length, dead, diseased and crossing stems are cut out, and every few years a quarter to a third of the oldest stems are removed at ground level so that the shrub renews itself. The routine known from modern roses does not apply here: hybrid tea roses are pruned hard in early spring, cutting the stems back to 3–5 buds above the woody base — on gallica roses such pruning would mean a season without flowers. In spring the work is limited to removing frost-damaged and broken stems.
Why does the French rose flower only once a season?
Because it belongs to the once-flowering (non-remontant) roses — this is an inherited trait of the species, not the result of a mistake in cultivation. The ability to repeat flowering entered European roses only with the Chinese roses, around the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, and today's cultivars that flower into autumn descend from them. Neither deadheading nor extra feeding will bring on a second flush, and an excess of nitrogen in the second half of summer will only worsen leaf health and overwintering. Since there will be no second flowering anyway, it is worth leaving the spent flowers on the plant — they will set brick-red hips, ornamental from August and readily eaten by birds.
My French rose is sending up stems from the ground beside the shrub — are they rootstock suckers?
It depends on how the shrub was produced. A French rose on its own roots naturally spreads by underground suckers, and the stems growing from them are the same cultivar — in autumn they can be dug up with a piece of root as new plants. If, however, the shrub is budded onto a rootstock (most often dog rose, Rosa canina), stems emerging below the bud union are rootstock suckers: they have smaller, lighter leaflets and different prickles, and if left they gradually take the shrub over. The bud union is recognised by the swelling at the base of the stems. A rootstock sucker is exposed and pulled off right at its base rather than cut with secateurs — a cut stem regrows more strongly. Spreading of shrubs on their own roots is limited by a root barrier sunk to about 40 cm.
Is the French rose more strongly scented than modern cultivars?
Gallica roses are known for a strong, classically rose-like scent, but the rule does not work in reverse: among modern roses there are very strongly scented cultivars — for example the hybrid tea 'Duftwolke' or the floribunda 'Friesia' — while some historic cultivars are only moderately fragrant. The intensity of the scent therefore depends on the particular cultivar, not on the age of the group. The feature that really sets the French rose apart is how well the scent lasts once the petals have been dried — the apothecary use of this species rested on it, and today so does its usefulness for potpourri. The scent of any rose is strongest in the morning, in warm and humid weather, and weakens markedly in heat and after rain.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Rosa gallicaInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant FinderInstitution / botanical garden
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