Damask rose

Rosa × damascena · Damask rose (EN) · Damaszener-Rose (DE)

The damask rose (Rosa × damascena) is a historic rose hybrid with strongly scented pink flowers that has been the main raw material for rose oil and rose water for centuries. It arose from crossing three species - Rosa moschata, Rosa gallica and Rosa fedtschenkoana - and does not occur in the wild. The typical summer form flowers once a season, on the previous year's growth, which is why it is pruned after flowering rather than in early spring like hybrid tea roses. The largest commercial plantations lie in the Bulgarian Rose Valley around Kazanlak and in the Turkish province of Isparta.

Full sun Medium watering USDA 4a–9b
Watering calculator

In short

  • A triparental hybrid: (Rosa moschata × Rosa gallica) × Rosa fedtschenkoana - known only from cultivation, never from a natural site.
  • Flowers once a season, in June and early July, on the previous year's growth - pruning is carried out AFTER flowering.
  • The basic raw material for rose oil: roughly 3-4 tonnes of fresh petals are distilled for 1 kg of oil.
  • Petals are picked from dawn until late morning - as the temperature rises, the volatile oil escapes from the flower.
  • Hardy to zone 4 - in Polish conditions it overwinters without mounding up, unlike hybrid tea roses.

Botanical data

Family
Rosaceae (Rosaceae)
Height
1.2–2.4 m
Width
1–1.8 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Moderate
Position
Full sun
Soil
Loamy, Humus-rich, Sandy
pH reaction
pH 6–7
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
June–July
Hardiness
USDA 4a–9b
Propagation
From cuttings, By layering

Characteristics

A shrub with upright, densely leafy and well-branched stems that arch over with age and under the weight of the flowers; it usually reaches 1.2-2.4 m in height and 1.0-1.8 m in width. The stems are exceptionally densely armed: alongside large, sickle-shaped hooked prickles they carry numerous fine bristles and glands - one of the features that distinguish damask roses from the smoother alba roses. The leaf is odd-pinnate, most often made up of five (less often seven) leaflets with a matt upper surface and a downy underside; the foliage is sometimes described as grey-green, though in some cultivars it is medium to dark green. The greyish tinge is regarded as an inheritance from the Central Asian Rosa fedtschenkoana, the third parent species. The flowers are 5-8 cm across, usually with 16-25 petals in an arrangement ranging from semi-double to fully double, and are gathered in threes to sevens in loose, slightly nodding clusters at the shoot tips - never singly on a stiff, long stalk as in hybrid tea roses. The colour ranges from pale pink to deep pink, and in the cultivar 'York and Lancaster' also white. The scent is very strong, with a sweet-spicy profile that perfumery calls, quite literally, the damask note. The typical summer form flowers once a season, in June and early July, and does so on growth made in the previous year - this single feature governs the whole pruning calendar and explains why the shrub does not flower again after being cut back hard. The autumn form, known as 'Quatre Saisons', repeats its flowering in late summer, although less freely than in the first flush. Flowers left on the plant set elongated, brick-red hips that ripen from August onwards. The rose flower - including that of the damask rose - has no nectaries and produces no nectar, so its honey value is nil; insects collect only pollen from the flower, and its semi-double structure keeps the stamens accessible to them, unlike the tightly packed flowers of fully double cultivars. Botanically it is a tetraploid (2n = 4x = 28).

Popular cultivars

‘Trigintipetala’
The principal oil-bearing cultivar grown in the Bulgarian Rose Valley, also known in the trade as Kazanlik and - after its introduction in France - as Professeur Émile Perrot. Pink, semi-double flowers with visible yellow stamens and a very strong damask scent; an upright, well-branched shrub of about 1.5-2.4 m. Flowers once a season. The cultivar name means 'thirty-petalled', but the actual number of petals is often lower.
‘Quatre Saisons’
The autumn form of the damask rose (Rosa × damascena var. semperflorens), also traded as Bifera or Autumn Damask. The only repeat-flowering rose known in Europe before the Chinese roses were introduced at the end of the 18th century: after the main flush in June it produces a weaker but genuine second flush in late summer. Loose, pale pink, strongly scented flowers; a shrub of about 1.2-1.5 m.
‘York and Lancaster’
A historic cultivar with the status of the botanical variety Rosa × damascena var. versicolor, known in Europe since at least the 16th century and linked to the legend of the Wars of the Roses. Its peculiarity is variable colouring: white, pale pink and bicoloured flowers appear on one and the same shrub, in no regular pattern. It grows less strongly and flowers less showily than other damask cultivars - it is planted mainly for its collector's value.
‘Ispahan’
A cultivar known in cultivation before 1827, also encountered as Rose d'Ispahan and Pompon des Princes. Pure pink, fully double, strongly scented flowers gathered in numerous clusters. It flowers once a season, but exceptionally long for this group - the flush lasts many weeks. A compact shrub of about 1.2-1.5 m, with good foliage health.
‘Celsiana’
A historic damask cultivar with semi-double, pale pink flowers that fade with age almost to white, with a clearly visible boss of yellow stamens - which keeps them accessible to insects collecting pollen. The leaves are distinctly grey-green. A shrub of about 1.2-1.5 m, with stems that arch under the weight of the flowers; it flowers once a season.

Growing and care

Watering

Water infrequently but generously - roughly once a week, thoroughly soaking the root zone. Established shrubs tolerate drought better than hybrid tea roses; the plantations in Bulgaria and Turkey are run largely without irrigation. In the year of planting, watering must be regular. Do not wet the leaves - a leaf blade that stays damp for a long time favours blackspot.

In summer every ~7 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

Nitrogen feeding ends in July. In a plant that flowers on the previous year's stems, feeding after flowering is meant to build the wood that will carry next year's flower clusters, but late growth will not have time to ripen before winter.

in early spring and again immediately after flowering · kompost, przekompostowany obornik, nawóz do róż (NPK)

Planting

Fertile, humus-rich, free-draining soil enriched with compost; an open position, in full sun and with good air movement. The shrub spreads widely, so spacing below 120 cm closes the planting up and makes the leaves dry more slowly.

Timing: April-May or September-October · spacing 120–180 cm

Pruning

Shorten the side shoots that have flowered by one third to two thirds of their length and cut out one to three of the oldest, bare framework stems right at the base. Do not shorten strong leading stems made last year - it is on these that the flower buds for the coming season will form. In early spring remove only frost-damaged, broken and diseased stems.

Timing: As soon as flowering is over, usually in July - not in early spring. · Caution: Do not prune hard in early spring as you would a hybrid tea rose - the flower buds are already sitting on last year's stems, so such pruning removes the whole of the season's flowering. Pruning after flowering rules out hips: if decorative hips matter to you, the spent flowers are not removed.

Companion plants

Good companions

English lavenderPractical observation

Obie rośliny wymagają pełnego słońca i przepuszczalnej gleby, a róża damasceńska znosi suchsze stanowisko niż róże wielkokwiatowe — sąsiedztwo nie wymusza tu sprzecznych reżimów podlewania.

Faassen's catmintPractical observation

Niska, szaroniebieska obwódka maskuje ogołacającą się z wiekiem podstawę krzewu i kwitnie równolegle z różą, a po ścięciu powtarza kwitnienie.

Woodland sagePractical observation

Te same wymagania świetlne i glebowe oraz kwitnienie w czerwcu; tworzy zwartą obwódkę rabaty bez konkurowania o wodę w strefie korzeniowej krzewu.

Giant onionGardening tradition

Kuliste kwiatostany rozwijają się równolegle z kwitnieniem róży i kontrastują z nią formą, wypełniając dolne piętro rabaty; silnemu zapachowi cebul przypisuje się ograniczanie mszyc, choć jest to wiedza tradycyjna.

Bad companions

Common ivyPractical observation

Wspina się po pędach i zwiera podstawę krzewu, ograniczając przewiew — liście obsychają wolniej, co sprzyja czarnej plamistości i mączniakowi.

Another rose planted where a rose has been grubbed outResearch-backed

Choroba zmęczenia gleby po różach sprawia, że młode krzewy słabo się przyjmują i marnie rosną; przed ponownym sadzeniem wymienia się ziemię na głębokość i szerokość około 40 cm.

Trees and large shrubs shading the bed from the southPractical observation

Poniżej sześciu godzin pełnego słońca krzew kwitnie wyraźnie słabiej, a wolniej obsychające liście łatwiej porażają grzyby.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Rose black spot

Black to dark-brown spots with ragged margins on rose leaves, surrounded by yellowing of the leaf blade. Infected leaves drop in large numbers, weakening the plant and reducing flowering. The disease intensifies in wet seasons and where air circulation is poor. The spots are usually round, from a few millimetres to about 1-1.5 cm across, and their most important diagnostic feature is the radially fringed, feathery margin - the mycelium spreads beneath the leaf cuticle in all directions, producing the characteristic 'star-shaped' edge (hence the German name Sternrußtau). Under heavy infection the spots merge into larger, irregular patches, and the surrounding yellowing spreads across more and more of the blade until the whole leaf turns yellow and drops. Small, dark conidial fruiting bodies (acervuli) appear on the upper surface of the spots, while the underside of the leaf remains free of any coating. Symptoms appear first on the lower, oldest leaves and gradually move up the shrub, because the spores are carried by water splashing up from the soil and from lower leaves. Small, purplish-red discolorations and blotches may appear on young, green shoots. Prolonged wetting of the leaves for several hours is required for the spores to germinate and infect, which is why the disease breaks out after warm, rainy spells. Repeated defoliation exhausts the shrub, limits flowering and worsens winter hardiness.

Powdery mildew

A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.

Rust

Rusty-orange to brown, powdery clusters of spores on the underside of leaves, matched on the upper side by yellow spots. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely, and the plant weakens. It affects roses and mallows among others, and some rusts have an alternate host (for example pear rust and juniper). The pustules (clusters of summer spores, the so-called uredinia) break through the leaf skin and release an orange-rust powder that rubs off onto the finger - this is the most reliable identifying feature. In high summer they appear mainly on the underside of the blade, along the veins and on the leaf stalks, and in some species also on green shoots and sepals. In late autumn the clusters darken to brownish-black - these are the overwintering spores (telia) by which the fungus survives winter on plant debris. Rusts are highly host-specific: a given rust usually infects only one species or genus of host, which is why the rusts of rose, mallow and marsh mallow, bean, leek and garlic, mint, pelargonium or lawn are different, non-interchangeable fungi. The general symptom - yellowing and premature leaf drop - weakens the plant and limits flowering and yield, though it rarely kills it within a single season.

Aphids

Small (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Sawflies

The larvae strongly resemble the caterpillars of butterflies and moths, but have more pairs of abdominal prolegs (six and more) and single ocelli on the sides of the head, by which they can be told apart. They often feed gregariously, skeletonising the leaves or eating them down to the veins, and can strip a gooseberry or currant bush bare within a few days. The host plants are gooseberry, currant, rose, plum and pine. Symptoms: besides the defoliation of leaves, the larvae of fruit-dwelling species (e.g. on plum) bore into the young fruit set and cause it to drop. Adult sawflies are small (a few millimetres) hymenopterans without a distinct 'wasp waist' — the abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax, which distinguishes them from wasps and bees; the females have a saw-like ovipositor (hence the name 'sawflies'), with which they cut into the tissue of a leaf or fruit set and lay their eggs inside it. The larvae are most often green, matching the colour of the leaf, in some species with dark warts or spots; their prolegs lack the grasping crochets that the caterpillars of moths have, and when disturbed the larvae of many species raise the rear end of the body into a characteristic 'S' shape. The most damaging groups are: the gooseberry sawfly (Nematus ribesii) on gooseberry and currant, stripping the bush from the inside out; the slug sawflies (genus Caliroa) on pear, cherry and plum, whose slimy, slug-like larvae graze away the upper skin of the leaf (windowing), so that the leaf turns brown as if scorched; the fruit sawflies of the genus Hoplocampa on plum and apple, tunnelling galleries into the young fruit set and leaving moist, foul-smelling droppings; and the conifer sawflies (Diprion, Neodiprion) on pine, feeding gregariously on the needles. Life cycle: the adults emerge in spring, the larvae feed for several weeks, after which they descend into the soil or leaf litter, where they pupate in a cocoon and overwinter as a larva (prepupa); depending on the species, 1–3 generations develop in a season.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans None The petals are edible and have been used in cooking for centuries; the plant contains no poisonous constituents. Note: the inside of the hips is filled with fine, stiff hairs that strongly irritate the skin and the digestive tract - they must be removed thoroughly when processing the hips.
Dogs Mild The only hazard is the dense prickles and bristles on the stems - a risk of mechanical injury, not of poisoning.
Cats None

History and origin

The name refers to Damascus and to the medieval belief that this rose was brought to Europe by crusaders returning from the Middle East. DNA analysis published by Iwata and co-workers in 2000 showed, however, that we are dealing with a triparental hybrid: (Rosa moschata × Rosa gallica) × Rosa fedtschenkoana, with the chloroplasts coming from Rosa moschata, which was therefore the seed parent. The contribution of Rosa fedtschenkoana, which grows in the mountains of Central Asia, shifts the likely place of origin of the hybrid further east than the name itself suggests. Growing roses for rose water developed in the Persian and Arab world, from where the raw material reached Europe as a luxury commodity. For centuries the autumn form 'Quatre Saisons' was the only repeat-flowering rose known in Europe - only the Chinese roses introduced at the end of the 18th century gave breeders a second source of that trait and opened the way to modern roses. Commercial growing in the Bulgarian Rose Valley around Kazanlak and Karlovo took shape in Ottoman times and has been a recognisable speciality of the country since the 19th century; the annual Rose Festival is held there in early June. In the Turkish province of Isparta the first oil was distilled in 1892, and today the region accounts for a large share of world production. Besides Bulgaria and Turkey, large plantations are run by Iran (the Kashan region, mainly for rose water), India, Morocco, Afghanistan and China.

Uses

In the garden the damask rose works well as a large, free-standing shrub in naturalistic plantings and historic gardens, in rows as an informal flowering hedge, and in herb beds. It is not, however, suited to growing in a container or for cut flowers - the blooms shatter quickly. The position must be in full sun, airy, with a minimum of six hours of direct light a day; the soil fertile, humus-rich and free-draining, with a slightly acid to neutral reaction. Shrubs are planted 120-180 cm apart, in spring or in autumn. Unlike hybrid tea roses it does not need mounding up - hardiness to zone 4 covers winters throughout Poland with a margin to spare, and in the first year after planting a mulch at the base of the shrub is enough. The main product is the petals. They are picked from dawn until late morning: as the temperature rises the volatile constituents of the oil escape from the flower, so petals gathered in the afternoon are markedly poorer. Industry uses two technologies - steam distillation, which yields rose oil (rose otto), and solvent extraction, which yields a concrete and an absolute with a different aroma profile. The yield of distillation is very low: roughly 3-4 tonnes of fresh petals are needed for 1 kg of oil, which explains the price of the raw material. The water left after the first distillation is not waste - it contains readily soluble phenylethyl alcohol and is redistilled (cohobation), while the surplus goes on the market as rose water. Commercial plantations are usually kept in production for 15-20 years and then renewed. In the kitchen the petals are used for preserves, syrups, liqueurs and infusions, and in the Middle East and India also for confectionery - lokum, baklava or the thick preserve gulkand. For culinary use, petals are picked only from shrubs that have not been treated with plant protection products. One regional difference is worth noting: the traditional Polish rose preserve used in doughnuts is usually made from the rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) rather than from the damask rose; the latter dominates in Balkan and Middle Eastern recipes.

Trivia

  • Beta-damascenone takes its name from this rose - an aroma compound isolated from Bulgarian rose oil and described in 1970. It makes up a fraction of a per cent of the composition of the oil, yet it accounts for much of the perceptible rose note, because its detection threshold is extremely low.
  • Pure rose oil (rose otto) sets in the cold into a translucent mass and melts in the hand; the setting point lies between 15 and 22°C. This is due to stearoptene - an odourless paraffin fraction. Setting is therefore a sign of undiluted raw material, not of a fault.
  • The cultivar epithet Trigintipetala means 'thirty-petalled', although the actual number of petals in the flowers of this cultivar is often lower and ranges roughly between 16 and 25.
  • Despite the enormous area under cultivation, the genetic variability of the damask rose is very narrow: plantations are established from cuttings, so in practice most plants in the world are one and the same clone, propagated over and over again.

Frequently asked questions

How does the damask rose differ from the hybrid tea rose?

These are two different horticultural groups with different biology. In its typical summer form the damask rose flowers once a season, in June, and does so on growth made a year earlier; the hybrid tea rose is repeat-flowering from June to September on the current year's growth. The flowers of the damask rose are smaller (5-8 cm), semi-double to fully double and gathered several to a loose cluster, while those of the hybrid tea are large, usually 10-12 cm, borne one to a long, stiff stalk - which is why it is the hybrid tea that is grown for cut flowers. This also results in a different pruning calendar: the damask rose is pruned after flowering, the hybrid tea hard in early spring. The damask rose is at the same time far hardier (zone 4 against zone 5), and it is this rose, not the modern ones, that is the raw material of the rose oil industry.

When and how should you prune a damask rose?

The main pruning is done as soon as flowering is over, usually in July. The side shoots that have flowered are shortened by one third to two thirds and one to three of the oldest, bare framework stems are cut out at the base. Strong stems made last year are not shortened - it is on these that the flower buds for next year will form. In early spring only frost-damaged, broken and diseased stems are removed. It should not be treated like a hybrid tea rose, which in early spring is cut back to 3-5 buds just above the woody base, that is to a height of the order of a dozen or so centimetres. Such pruning would remove the whole of the damask rose's flowering for that season.

Can you distil rose oil from a damask rose at home?

In practice, no. Roughly 3-4 tonnes of fresh petals are needed for 1 kg of oil, that is the crop from several thousand square metres of plantation - a few shrubs in the garden cannot give a measurable amount. What is realistically achievable by home methods is rose water (a hydrosol from distillation or a simple infusion), syrup, liqueur and a preserve made from the petals. Pick petals intended for consumption only from shrubs that have not been treated with plant protection products; if the shrub has been sprayed, observe the pre-harvest interval given on the product label. Pick in the morning, from freshly opened flowers.

When should you pick damask rose petals?

At peak flowering, that is in June, from freshly opened flowers - those going over lose their scent. Picking is done from dawn until late morning, on a dry day, because as the temperature rises the volatile constituents of the oil escape from the flower and petals gathered in the afternoon are noticeably poorer. On the plantations in Bulgaria and Turkey hand-picking is carried out in exactly this time window. The petals are processed the same day, because heaped up they quickly warm through and lose their aroma.

Does the damask rose overwinter in Poland without protection?

Yes. Its hardiness reaches zone 4, which covers even the coldest parts of Poland with a margin to spare, and unlike hybrid tea roses it does not need the base of the shrub mounding up for winter. In the first year after planting it is worth laying a layer of mulch or compost at the base, mainly to protect the young root system against freezing and drying out. We do not recommend container growing anyway - the shrub is too large for it - but if anyone were to grow it that way, the root ball in a pot freezes much faster than in the ground and needs protection.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/25/2026.

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