In short
- A ruff of a dozen-odd stiff bracts around a small umbel is the diagnostic trait of the genus — the star effect comes from them, not from flower petals.
- It blooms from June to September: the first flush in summer, a repeat one after the spent stems are cut back at the base of the clump.
- It tolerates drought poorly — the first sign of dryness is browning leaf margins; frost is the opposite, it overwinters without protection in zones 4a–8a.
- It grows in a clump and slowly, without runners, is long-lived but resents transplanting — divide only when necessary.
- It self-seeds freely, and the seedlings of coloured cultivars revert to the greenish-white type and gradually crowd the cultivar out of the clump.
Botanical data
- Family
- Apiaceae (Apiaceae)
- Height
- 0.4–0.9 m
- Width
- 0.3–0.5 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Position
- Partial shade, Full sun
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy, Chalky
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7.5
- Moisture
- Moist, Moderate
- Bloom
- June–September
- Hardiness
- USDA 4a–8a
- Propagation
- By division, From seed
Characteristics
A perennial forming a dense clump from a short, thickened rhizome, without runners — it spreads slowly and stays where it is planted. The basal leaves are palmately lobed or palmately divided, with 3–7 crenate-serrate segments, dark green, borne on long stalks; they form a low rosette 30–50 cm across. From the rosette rise stiff, sparingly branched flowering stems 40–90 cm tall, with a few sessile stem leaves. The inflorescence is a simple umbel 2–3 cm across, made up of several dozen tiny flowers — an exception in a family for which compound umbels and pinnate leaves are the rule. The star effect comes not from a corolla of flowers but from the ruff of a dozen-odd stiff, pointed, almost papery bracts 1–2 cm long surrounding the umbel: in the type they are greenish-white with pink or purple veining, in the cultivars uniformly pink, carmine or deep red. The bracts stay ornamental for many weeks — hence the impression of a very long bloom. The fruit is a schizocarp that splits into two mericarps with scaly, wrinkled ribs. It blooms from June to September: the first flush in summer, a repeat one after the spent stems are cut back. It grows in partial shade and in sun — provided the soil stays moist — on fertile, humus-rich, firm, water-retentive ground. It tolerates a wide range of pH, from slightly acid to alkaline — in the wild it most often grows on limestone soils, but it also copes on lime-free ones. It handles drought poorly: first the leaf-blade margins dry out, then the whole rosette dies back prematurely. With frost it is the reverse — the clumps overwinter without protection in zones 4a–8a and cope worse with a hot, dry summer than with a hard winter. Great masterwort is distinguished from Astrantia maxima, which has three-parted leaves, larger and uniformly pink bracts and spreads by runners, and from the smaller mountain species with narrower ruffs: Astrantia minor and Astrantia carniolica.
Popular cultivars
- ‘Roma’
- Selected by the Dutch designer Piet Oudolf, with clean pink bracts and 50–70 cm tall. It sets practically no seed, so it does not self-sow and flowers exceptionally long. Propagated only by division.
- ‘Claret’
- Deep-red, wine-coloured bracts and almost purple stems; about 50–60 cm. The colour is deepest in partial shade — in harsh sun it fades towards pink more quickly.
- ‘Ruby Wedding’
- One of the darkest reds in the species, with ruby bracts and dark stems, about 50–60 cm. Grown from seed it gives seedlings much paler than the parent plant, so it is kept only from division.
- ‘Shaggy’
- Bracts exceptionally long, narrow and unevenly cut, white with green tips — the ruff therefore looks ragged; 60–90 cm. In the trade it is sometimes sold as 'Margery Fish', after the English gardener who popularised it.
- ‘Sunningdale Variegated’
- Grown mainly for its leaves: in spring broadly margined with creamy yellow, in summer gradually turning green. Flowers white-pink, height 50–70 cm. The variegation colours up best in bright partial shade; in deep shade it fades away more quickly.
- ‘Star of Billion’
- From the Dutch 'Star of…' series, with clean white bracts and strong, long-flowering stems, about 60–70 cm. Good as a lightener in darker combinations and for cut flowers.
Growing and care
Watering
It does not tolerate drying out — the first sign is browning leaf margins. On a sunny site water generously during drought; a mulch of compost or shredded bark limits evaporation and usually replaces part of the watering.
Fertilizing
It is not a greedy plant — a layer of compost in spring is enough. A second, light dose can be given after cutting back the spent stems, when a repeat bloom is expected.
Planting
A site in partial shade or in sun with moist soil; a fertile, humus-rich, firm and water-retentive substrate — mix in compost before planting. Set the clump so that the base of the stems is level with the ground surface, and mulch it straight away.
Pruning
Cut the spent flowering stems right at the base of the clump — this prompts the plant to send up a second flush of flowers and cuts off the route to self-seeding. Remove the withered leaves and stems in late autumn, or leave them over winter for structure and cut them back in early spring.
Companion plants
Good companions
Te same wymagania — żyzna, wilgotna gleba w półcieniu; żółtozielona mgiełka kwiatostanów przywrotnika kontrastuje z gwiaździstymi kryzami jarzmianki, a jego liście zakrywają nasadę pędów.
Identyczne stanowisko (półcień, stale wilgotna gleba próchnicza) i nakładające się terminy kwitnienia; pierzaste wiechy tawułki dopełniają ażurowe baldaszki jarzmianki.
Szerokie, gładkie liście funkii tworzą tło dla drobnych kwiatostanów jarzmianki, a obie rośliny dzielą upodobanie do próchnicznej, wilgotnej gleby w półcieniu.
Kępowa paproć nie rozłazi się rozłogami, więc nie zagłusza wolno rosnącej jarzmianki, a razem tworzą typowy zestaw obrzeża zadrzewienia.
Klasyczne podsadzenie róż w ogrodach angielskich — jarzmianka zakrywa ogołacającą się dolną część krzewu i kwitnie w tym samym rytmie; działa tylko tam, gdzie gleba pod różami pozostaje wilgotna.
Bad companions
Lawenda wymaga gleby suchej, przepuszczalnej i pełnego słońca — dokładnego przeciwieństwa wilgotnego, próchnicznego stanowiska jarzmianki.
Paproć strusia rozrasta się podziemnymi rozłogami i szybko wchodzi w kępy sąsiadów; wolno rosnąca jarzmianka zostaje zagłuszona mimo zgodnych wymagań glebowych.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | None | It is not among the poisonous plants and there are no reports of poisonings. As with many members of the carrot family, sensitive people may react with skin irritation after prolonged contact with the sap. |
| Dogs | None | — |
| Cats | None | — |
History and origin
The species was described by Carl Linnaeus in his work "Species Plantarum" of 1753. Its natural range covers the mountains and foothills of central and southern Europe — from the Pyrenees and the Alps through the Carpathians to the Balkans — and reaches east to the Caucasus; there it grows in moist mountain meadows, tall-herb communities and on the edges and in the clearings of beech woods. In Poland it is a native species: it occurs in the Carpathians and the Sudetes and on scattered upland and lowland sites. The genus name is usually derived from the Latin astrum, meaning star — a reference to the star-shaped ruff of bracts; a second hypothesis links it to the medieval herbalist name magistrantia, from which the English masterwort also comes. The German Große Sterndolde means literally "large star umbel". In old herbalism the root was used as a purgative and diuretic; modern phytotherapy does not use it. The masterwort owes its garden career to two waves of fashion. In the mid-20th century it was made famous by Margery Fish, the English gardener of East Lambrook Manor — to this day the cultivar 'Shaggy' is sometimes sold under the name 'Margery Fish'. The second wave came in the 1990s with the New Perennial movement and the naturalistic borders of Piet Oudolf, who selected the long-flowering cultivar 'Roma', which sets practically no seed. Since then breeding, chiefly Dutch, has produced cultivars with deep-red bracts and variegated leaves, including the 'Star of…' series.
Uses
The masterwort is one of the staple perennials of naturalistic and cottage gardens, of partial-shade borders and woodland edges. It is planted in groups of 5–7 at a spacing of 35–45 cm; at 40–90 cm tall it fits the middle plane of the border, but thanks to the airy structure of its inflorescences it also works right by a path, where the detail of the ruff can be seen. It classically accompanies roses in English gardens, but only where the soil beneath the shrubs stays moist. It combines well with lady's mantle, hostas, astilbes, coral bells and cranesbills, with clump-forming ferns, and among grasses with purple moor grass and tufted hair grass. It is not suited to dry, hot and wind-exposed sites, nor to containers — soil in a pot dries out faster than this perennial tolerates. It is also worth keeping away from plants that spread by runners, such as ostrich fern or ground elder, which within a few seasons will smother the slow-growing clump. The masterwort self-seeds freely, and the seedlings of coloured cultivars revert to the greenish-white type, grow more vigorously and after a few years displace the choice cultivar — this is prevented by cutting back the spent stems before they set seed and by weeding out the young seedlings; the cultivar 'Roma', which sets practically no seed, does not have this problem. For cut flowers the stems are cut when most of the flowers in the umbel are open; they last a long time in a vase. For drying they are cut in full bloom and hung with the inflorescences down in airy shade — the bracts keep their shape and much of their colour. Dried umbels left over winter give the border structure right through to early spring.
Trivia
- What looks like a single flower is in reality a whole inflorescence: several dozen tiny flowers surrounded by a ruff of bracts. The bracts do not fade along with the flowers, so the inflorescence stays ornamental long after pollination.
- The masterwort's umbel has flowers of two kinds: those on the rim are exclusively male, the inner ones are bisexual.
- Within the carrot family the masterwort is a double exception — it has a simple umbel instead of the typical compound umbel and palmately lobed leaves instead of pinnate or finely divided ones.
- The flat, easily accessible flowers are visited not only by bees but also by hoverflies and small parasitic wasps — insects whose larvae eat aphids, so a clump of masterwort acts as a canteen for the natural enemies of pests.
Frequently asked questions
Why do masterwort leaves turn brown and dry at the margins?
Most often this is a sign of drought stress, not disease. The masterwort has a low drought tolerance and reacts first at the leaf-blade margins — especially when planted in full sun on light, free-draining soil. Mulching with compost or shredded bark helps, along with watering during drought and, ultimately, moving it into partial shade. Dried leaves can be cut out at the base; the clump comes back with new growth.
Will the masterwort flower in shade?
Partial shade is optimal. In full sun it flowers freely, but only with constantly moist soil; in dry shade under trees it flowers sparsely, and the stems stretch out and flop. A practical compromise is a spot with morning sun and shade during the hottest hours of the day.
How do I make a masterwort flower again?
When the first flush of flowers is over, cut back the spent flowering stems right at the base of the clump — not halfway up the stem, because the new stems grow from the base of the plant. With moist soil and a light feed of compost the plant sends up a second flush of flowers within the same season, in late summer.
My red masterwort fades from year to year — has the cultivar degenerated?
The plant does not change colour. It is self-sown seedlings: the seeds of coloured cultivars give seedlings with greenish-white bracts, which grow more vigorously and after a few seasons crowd the choice cultivar out of the clump. This is prevented by cutting back the spent stems before they set seed and by weeding out the young seedlings around the plant. The cultivar 'Roma' sets practically no seed, so it does not self-sow.
When and how do I divide a masterwort?
In spring, once growth has started, and only when it is really needed — the clump is long-lived, resents transplanting and after division may skip flowering for a season. The lifted clump is divided into pieces with several buds and a portion of roots, planted straight into a moist spot and watered regularly. Cultivars are propagated only by division — from seed they do not come true to the parent plant.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Astrantia major L.Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Astrantia majorInstitution / botanical garden
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder: Astrantia majorInstitution / botanical garden
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