In short
- Heart-shaped, glossy leaves on long shoots that trail or climb a support.
- One of the most tolerant houseplants - it copes even with lower light.
- In a brighter position it grows more compactly, with more densely leaved shoots.
- Easily propagated from cuttings rooted in water.
- Toxic to dogs and cats - it contains calcium oxalates that irritate the mouth.
Botanical data
- Family
- Araceae (Araceae)
- Height
- 0.3–0.6 m
- Width
- 0.3–0.5 m
- Habit
- Cascading
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 5–6.5
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- —
- Hardiness
- USDA 10a–11b
- Propagation
- From cuttings
Characteristics
A perennial herbaceous plant with flexible, slender shoots and leathery, heart-shaped leaves 5-15 cm long, dark green and glossy. Without support it grows as a trailing cascade 0.5-2 m long; trained on a moss pole it climbs upward thanks to aerial roots that emerge from the nodes.
Growing and care
Watering
Water when the top layer of the substrate has dried out to a depth of 2-3 cm. It tolerates short periods of drying out better than constantly wet substrate.
Fertilizing
Diluted universal fertiliser for foliage plants - reduce or suspend feeding in winter.
Planting
A universal substrate for foliage plants with added bark and perlite; optionally a moss pole to train the shoots upward.
Pruning
Prune elongated, bare shoots just above a node to encourage branching from the base.
Companion plants
Good companions
Similar requirements for light, air humidity and watering - an easy shared position in the same room.
Bad companions
Radically different water requirements - the philodendron needs regular moisture, while succulents need dry substrate between waterings.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
MealybugsInsects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | Contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals - contact with the sap and ingestion irritate the skin and the mucous membranes of the mouth. |
| Dogs | Moderate | Chewing the leaves causes drooling, swelling of the muzzle, vomiting and irritation of the mouth. |
| Cats | Moderate | Symptoms similar to those in dogs - drooling, vomiting and irritation of the mouth after chewing the leaves. |
History and origin
Brought to Europe from the tropical forests of Central America in the 19th century as a greenhouse plant, today it is one of the most popular pot philodendrons worldwide and among the most frequently recommended to beginners, prized for its forgiving nature.
Uses
For interiors with varying light levels as a trailing plant from a high shelf or hanging pot, or trained upward on a moss pole as an ornamental climber.
Trivia
- The genus name 'Philodendron' comes from the Greek and means 'tree-loving' - in the wild the plant climbs up trunks as an epiphyte, using aerial roots to attach itself to the bark.
- Cuttings of the heartleaf philodendron root very easily in plain water - simply cut off a section of shoot with a node and stand it in a glass in a bright spot; roots appear after 2-4 weeks.
Frequently asked questions
Will the heartleaf philodendron cope in a dark room?
It is one of the most light-tolerant houseplants - it will cope even with a fairly dark position, though it then grows more slowly and produces longer gaps between the leaves. In a brighter spot it grows denser and more compactly.
What is the easiest way to propagate the heartleaf philodendron?
The simplest way is to cut off a section of shoot with at least one node and place it in a glass of water in a bright, warm spot. Roots usually appear after 2-4 weeks, after which the cutting can be potted up into substrate.
Is the philodendron safe for a dog or cat that chews the leaves?
No - the heartleaf philodendron contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals which, when chewed, cause drooling, swelling of the muzzle, vomiting and irritation of the mouth in dogs and cats. The plants should be kept out of reach of pets.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Philodendron hederaceumInstitution / botanical garden
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