In short
- Blooms with white flower spikes almost year-round under good conditions.
- Tolerates partial shade and shade — good for low-light rooms.
- Signals thirst by drooping leaves and recovers quickly once watered.
- Appreciates high air humidity — does well in bathrooms.
- Toxic to dogs and cats if chewed.
Botanical data
- Family
- Araceae (Araceae)
- Height
- 0.4–0.7 m
- Width
- 0.3–0.6 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Partial shade, Shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–6.5
- Moisture
- Moist
- Bloom
- March–September
- Hardiness
- USDA 10a–11b
- Propagation
- By division
Characteristics
A clump-forming plant with glossy, lance-shaped, dark green leaves. Its inflorescence, typical of the arum family, consists of a white spathe surrounding a creamy spadix, borne on a tall stalk above the leaves.
Growing and care
Watering
Clearly signals thirst by drooping leaves and recovers quickly once watered. Appreciates humid air.
Fertilizing
Moderate fertilizing supports flowering; too much limits flower formation.
Planting
Free-draining, humus-rich substrate that holds moisture; a pot with drainage.
Pruning
Remove spent flower spikes and yellowing leaves right at the base.
Companion plants
Good companions
Similar requirements — partial shade and high air humidity; they thrive together in a bathroom.
Bad companions
Vastly different water needs — the peace lily requires constant moisture.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
Grey mouldA grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
MealybugsInsects covered in a white, cottony, waxy coating, gathering in leaf axils, at the base of shoots and on the underside of leaf blades. They look like tufts of cotton wool. They suck sap, weaken the plant and excrete sticky honeydew, on which black sooty mould develops. A common pest of houseplants and succulents. Adult females are oval, soft-bodied insects about 2-5 mm long, with a pinkish or grey body hidden under wax, often bearing waxy filaments along the sides and at the tip of the abdomen. Males are tiny, winged and do not feed. In most species eggs are laid in white, cottony ovisacs (cocoons), from which mobile larvae (crawlers) hatch and spread across the plant, carrying the infestation to neighbouring specimens; some mealybugs (e.g. Pseudococcus longispinus), however, are ovoviviparous and give birth to live crawlers without a distinct ovisac. In the warm, dry conditions of homes and glasshouses mealybugs develop all year round, in several overlapping generations - which is why a single treatment is rarely enough. Feeding symptoms are stunted growth, yellowing, deformation and premature leaf drop, and under heavy infestation dieback of shoots; the black sooty mould on the honeydew further reduces photosynthesis and disfigures the plant. A separate form is the root mealybug (Rhizoecus), forming white, waxy clusters on the roots and inside the root ball - the plant weakens and wilts with no visible pest on the above-ground parts. Mealybugs are often attended by ants, which eat the honeydew and protect the colonies from natural enemies.
Fungus gnatsSmall, dark gnats (2–4 mm) flying around pots and scurrying across the surface of the substrate. The adults are a nuisance, but the real damage is done by their larvae in the soil, feeding on the roots and the base of the stems of young plants. A constantly moist, humus-rich substrate favours their development — the classic result of overwatering houseplants. Adult fungus gnats are delicate, mosquito-like flies with a slender, dark grey body, long, beaded antennae and a single pair of smoky wings; they fly clumsily in short bursts, readily settle on the surface of the substrate and on window panes, and when disturbed rise up in a little cloud. They themselves do not damage plants — they neither pierce nor suck sap — but their presence is a reliable sign that larvae are developing in the substrate. The larvae are translucent, whitish, legless and elongated (up to 5–6 mm), with a distinct, glossy black head capsule — it is this black head that distinguishes them from other soil organisms. They feed mainly on dead organic matter, fungal mycelium and algae, but at high densities they gnaw on young roots, root hairs and the base of stems. The signs of their feeding are wilting and stunted growth of seedlings and young potted plants, yellowing, poor rooting and, in extreme cases, seedlings toppling over and dying off where they have been chewed at the base. The wounds inflicted by the larvae are also entry points for infection, and the larvae and adults themselves can carry the spores of soil pathogens (including Pythium, Fusarium, Botrytis), linking the pest problem with root-rot diseases. The development cycle (egg → larva → pupa → adult) takes about 3–4 weeks in warmth and shortens at high temperatures; a female lays several dozen to over a hundred eggs on the moist surface of the substrate, and in a heated home or greenhouse the generations overlap throughout the year, so that with constant overwatering the population builds up quickly.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | Contains calcium oxalates that irritate the mouth if ingested. |
| Dogs | Moderate | — |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
History and origin
The peace lily entered European cultivation in the 19th century from the American tropics. It became popular as one of the few plants that flower attractively even in low indoor light.
Uses
For living rooms and offices with moderate or low light, especially bathrooms, thanks to its liking for humid air.
Trivia
- The peace lily is among the plants most often cited in NASA studies for purifying air of formaldehyde and benzene.
- What looks like a white flower is actually a modified leaf (spathe) — the true flowers are tiny structures on the spadix.
Frequently asked questions
Why won't my peace lily bloom?
The most common causes are too little light (despite its shade tolerance, it needs bright, indirect light to flower) or too much nitrogen in the fertilizer at the expense of phosphorus.
Why do peace lily leaves get brown tips?
This is usually caused by air that's too dry, a root ball that's dried out, or an excess of mineral salts from tap water. Misting and watering with settled water usually helps.
My peace lily's leaves have drooped — is it dying?
Usually not — this is a typical sign of thirst. After watering, the plant usually regains its firmness within a few hours.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — SpathiphyllumInstitution / botanical garden
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