Persian cyclamen

Cyclamen persicum · Persian cyclamen (EN) · Persisches Alpenveilchen (DE)

Persian cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is a tuberous houseplant with marbled foliage and striking, upward-curved flowers, blooming in autumn and winter when most houseplants are dormant.

Partial shade/Shade Medium watering Toxic
Watering calculator

In short

  • Blooms from October to March — one of the few houseplants that provide ornament precisely in winter.
  • Likes cool rooms (12–16°C) — in warmth it fades faster and is more prone to disease.
  • Water from below or around the rim of the pot, never directly onto the tuber and the centre of the leaf rosette.
  • In summer the tuber goes through a dormant period — the leaves yellow and die back, which is a natural process.
  • The tuber is toxic, especially dangerous for children and pets.

Botanical data

Family
Primulaceae (Primulaceae)
Height
0.15–0.3 m
Width
0.15–0.25 m
Habit
Clump-forming
Growth rate
Slow
Position
Partial shade, Shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Peaty
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
October–March
Hardiness
Propagation
From seed

Characteristics

From an underground, flattened tuber grow heart-shaped leaves with a characteristic silvery-green marbling, and flowers on long stalks with five upward-curved petals that resemble butterflies in flight.

Growing and care

Watering

Water from below, standing the pot in water for a few minutes, or carefully around the rim of the pot; flooding the tuber and the leaf rosette causes rot. In summer, during dormancy, water only sparingly.

In summer every ~20 days · drought tolerance: Medium

Fertilizing

In summer, during tuber dormancy, stop fertilising completely.

every 2 weeks from autumn to spring, during the growth and flowering period · nawóz do roślin kwitnących

Planting

Well-drained, humus-rich substrate; plant the tuber shallowly, so its top remains just above the soil surface.

Timing: planting and repotting the tubers in August–September, after the summer dormant period · spacing 15–20 cm

Pruning

Remove spent flowers and yellowed leaves with a firm twist right at the base of the stalk, not by cutting.

Timing: On an ongoing basis during and after flowering. · Caution: Do not cut the stalks with scissors right at the tuber — the remaining stub easily begins to rot.

Companion plants

Good companions

Winter heath (Erica carnea)Practical observation

A similar preference for cool locations and winter-spring flowering — pair well in cool window displays.

Pot primroses (Primula)Practical observation

The same requirement for a cool, bright location and moderate watering during the winter season.

Bad companions

Golden pothosPractical observation

Likes warmth, high air humidity and substrate that stays moist year-round — the opposite of the cooler, drier conditions cyclamen needs during its dormant period.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Moderate The tuber contains saponins — ingestion causes irritation of the digestive tract, vomiting, and in large amounts a more serious poisoning.
Dogs Moderate Eating the tuber can cause severe vomiting, diarrhoea, and in extreme cases cardiac arrhythmia.
Cats Moderate Symptoms similar to those in dogs — the underground tuber is especially dangerous, being much more toxic than the leaves and flowers.

History and origin

The parent species originates from the eastern Mediterranean, from where it reached European botanical gardens in the 17th–18th centuries. Intensive breeding of pot varieties began in the 19th century and continues today, producing hundreds of cultivars that differ in flower colour and size.

Uses

Exclusively a houseplant — for cool, bright windowsills, unheated verandas, stairwells and rooms with temperatures below 18°C. A striking autumn-winter indoor ornament.

Trivia

  • The genus name Cyclamen comes from the Greek kyklos (circle) and refers to the seed stalks that coil spirally after flowering.
  • In many Central European countries, cyclamen is a traditional winter gift, an alternative to poinsettia.

Frequently asked questions

Why do Persian cyclamen leaves yellow and wilt in summer?

This is the tuber's natural summer dormancy, not a disease. Watering should be reduced to a minimum during this time, and the pot kept in a cool, shaded place until autumn, when the plant starts growing again.

How do you water cyclamen properly so it doesn't rot?

The safest method is to water from below — stand the pot in a bowl of water for 10–15 minutes, then pour off the excess. The water should not flood the tuber or the centre of the leaf rosette.

Is cyclamen safe in a home with a cat?

No — the cyclamen tuber is clearly toxic to cats and dogs and can cause severe vomiting and diarrhoea. In households with pets allowed to roam freely, it's better to choose a different plant or place it out of reach.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/14/2026.

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