In short
- Only the sour leaf stalks are edible — the leaf blades are toxic.
- A very hardy perennial that needs winter cold for a good crop.
- Likes a sunny to lightly shaded site and a fertile, humus-rich, moist soil.
- Emerging flower stalks are best snapped out to strengthen the stalk crop.
- A single crown crops for many years; it is propagated by division in spring or autumn.
Botanical data
- Family
- Polygonaceae (Polygonaceae)
- Height
- 0.6–1.5 m
- Width
- 1–1.8 m
- Habit
- Clump-forming
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Loamy
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- May–June
- Hardiness
- USDA 3a–8b
- Propagation
- By division, From seed
Characteristics
Forms a spreading, perennial clump with a thick rootstock (rhizome). From it grow very large, heart-shaped leaf blades on fleshy, often red-flushed stalks 30–60 cm long. A tall flower stalk with a cream-white panicle appears in late spring but is usually removed in cultivation.
Growing and care
Watering
The large leaves transpire heavily — in dry summers water regularly so the stalks stay juicy. Fertile, humus-rich soil, but without persistent waterlogging.
Fertilizing
A heavy feeder; generous mulching with manure or compost markedly improves the stalk crop.
Planting
Deeply dug soil generously enriched with compost; set the divisions (crowns) so the buds sit just below the surface.
Pruning
Snap out the emerging flower stalks at the base so the plant does not spend energy on flowering and seed.
Companion plants
Good companions
Rhubarb at the bed's edge is used in gardening tradition as a screening plant that shields brassicas from some pests.
Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, which the heavy-feeding rhubarb needs in large amounts.
Bad companions
The spreading, perennial rhubarb clump heavily shades its surroundings and competes for water and nutrients, suppressing neighbours.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Slugs and snailsSlugs and shelled snails that feed at night and after rain. Symptoms: irregular holes in the leaves and young seedlings eaten off completely, silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. The greatest damage occurs in damp, shaded spots — particularly on lettuce, strawberries and hostas. The most damaging in gardens are the slugs (which lack an external shell): the Spanish slug (Arion vulgaris, formerly described as A. lusitanicus) and the grey field slug (Deroceras reticulatum). The leopard slug (Limax maximus) can be morphologically similar to them, but it feeds mainly on decaying organic matter and fungi and may even prey on other slugs, so it is of little importance as a pest of living plants. Shelled forms — grove snails (Cepaea) or the protected Roman snail (Helix pomatia) — usually cause less damage. The body is soft, elongated and permanently covered in slime; on the head there are two pairs of retractable tentacles — the longer upper pair bears the eyes, the shorter lower pair serves a tactile and olfactory function. Slugs and snails are hermaphrodites: they lay spherical, transparent or pearly eggs in clusters, hidden in damp soil, under stones and in leaf litter. A single Spanish slug can lay several hundred eggs; both eggs and young slugs overwinter, and feeding lasts from spring to late autumn, intensifying on warm, damp nights. The damage has smooth edges and often appears in the middle of the leaf blade, not only from the margin; seedlings and transplants are sometimes eaten down to bare soil, and on strawberries and ripening vegetables the slugs gnaw hollows into the fruit. The decisive diagnostic sign is the dried, silvery glistening slime trail — no insect leaves one.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Moderate | Only the leaf stalks are edible. The leaf blades are toxic — they contain high concentrations of oxalic acid and anthraquinone glycosides; eating them causes poisoning. |
| Dogs | Moderate | The leaves contain oxalates and are toxic to animals. |
| Cats | Moderate | The leaves contain oxalates and are toxic to animals. |
History and origin
The genus Rheum comes from Asia, where related species (medicinal rhubarb) have been valued for their laxative action for thousands of years. As a vegetable for compotes and cakes, garden rhubarb only spread in Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Uses
The leaf stalks are used in the kitchen for compotes, jams, cakes and crumbles. Because of its imposing leaves, the plant is also grown as an ornamental in naturalistic gardens and at pond edges.
Trivia
- The early spring crop can be forced by blanching — covering the crown with a tall, dark container yields more tender, paler stalks.
- The sour taste of the stalks comes mainly from malic and oxalic acid; the leaf blades hold so much oxalate that they become toxic.
Frequently asked questions
Are rhubarb leaves toxic?
Yes. Only the leaf stalks are edible. The leaf blades themselves contain high concentrations of oxalic acid and anthraquinone glycosides and are toxic — they must not be eaten or fed to animals.
Until when can you harvest rhubarb?
The stalks are harvested from spring until about midsummer (June–July). Later the oxalic acid content rises, the stalks toughen, and the plant needs time to recover before winter. The stalks are snapped out at the base, not cut.
Why does rhubarb send up flower stalks and what do you do with them?
Sending up flower stalks is a natural response of older or drought-stressed plants. The stalks are best snapped out at the base as soon as they appear — flowering and setting seed weaken the stalk crop.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO) — Rheum rhabarbarumDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
- RHS — Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)Institution / botanical garden
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