In short
- A bright position — in shade the stripes fade and the shoots become leggy.
- Grows very fast; requires regular shortening of the shoots.
- Roots from any fragment of a shoot, even in a glass of water.
- The sap can irritate the skin of people and animals.
- Ideal for hanging baskets and for a summer balcony in partial shade.
Botanical data
- Family
- Commelinaceae (Commelinaceae)
- Height
- 0.1–0.2 m
- Width
- 0.4–1.2 m
- Habit
- Cascading
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Humus-rich, Peaty
- pH reaction
- pH 5.5–7
- Moisture
- Moderate
- Bloom
- June–September
- Hardiness
- —
- Propagation
- From cuttings, By division
Characteristics
A perennial with creeping or trailing, fleshy and brittle shoots up to a metre long, rooting at the nodes. The leaves are stalkless, ovate-lanceolate, with two silvery stripes on a green-purple background above and uniformly purple beneath. The flowers are small, three-petalled, pink-purple, open singly and last only one day.
Growing and care
Watering
Water when the top layer of substrate has dried out to a depth of 2 cm. The fleshy shoots forgive brief drying out, but in constantly wet substrate they quickly rot at the base.
Fertilizing
Moderately — excess nitrogen lengthens the internodes and washes out the contrast of the stripes.
Planting
Ordinary universal substrate with added perlite. It looks best in a hanging container, with several cuttings planted into one pot for density.
Pruning
Shorten the shoots by half just behind a node — the plant breaks below the cut and thickens up. The trimmings are immediately suitable as cuttings.
Companion plants
Good companions
Both are fast-growing trailing plants with the same watering regime — they look good side by side on a high shelf.
Similar light and water requirements, and the contrast of the purple stripes with the light green leaves of the spider plant complements them well.
Bad companions
In a shared bowl the wandering dude grows several times faster and shades the slow-growing succulent, while the watering it needs causes the haworthia to rot.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | The sap from the shoots can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in sensitive people — it is worth wearing gloves when pruning for any length of time. |
| Dogs | Mild | Contact with the sap sometimes causes itching and reddening of the skin; eating larger amounts irritates the digestive tract. |
| Cats | Mild | — |
History and origin
The genus commemorates John Tradescant, the 17th-century gardener to the kings of England. The species was brought from Mexico to European glasshouses in the 19th century; thanks to the ease with which it roots, it became one of the most frequently passed-on houseplants, handed “from cutting to cutting”.
Uses
For hanging baskets, high shelves and windowsills where the shoots can trail freely. In summer it works well in balcony boxes in bright partial shade. A good choice for beginners and for greening an interior quickly.
Trivia
- A single broken-off fragment of shoot with one node is enough — placed in water it puts out roots within a week, which is why the plant spreads between homes without any involvement of garden centres.
- In warm climates, including the Pacific islands and Australia, escapees from gardens form dense mats that smother native vegetation — there the species is controlled as invasive.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my wandering dude losing its purple stripes and turning green?
This is a symptom of insufficient light. The colouring depends on how bright the position is — move the plant closer to a window (without harsh midday sun) and the new leaves will regain their contrast. Old, greened shoots cannot be re-coloured, so it is worth shortening them.
What should I do when the shoots are long and bare at the base?
This is natural for the species and the result of not pruning. Shorten all the shoots by half — the plant will break below the cut and thicken up. Turn the cut tips into cuttings and plant them into the same pot to fill in the bare base.
How do I propagate the wandering dude?
Most simply from stem cuttings: cut off an 8-10 cm tip, remove the lower leaves and place it in water or straight into moist substrate. Roots appear after 5-10 days, at any time of year.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Tradescantia zebrinaInstitution / botanical garden
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