In short
- A perennial rootstock sends up new shoots each year that die back after the season — the above-ground part is annual.
- Very fast growth — up to several metres in a single growing season.
- Female hop cones are the raw material for beer production, traditionally used in herbal medicine as a sedative.
- Strongly, even fatally toxic to dogs — pets must be strictly kept away from access to the plant.
- Frost-hardy down to USDA zone 3 — the above-ground part dies back every year regardless.
Botanical data
- Family
- Cannabaceae (Cannabaceae)
- Height
- 3–7 m
- Width
- 1–1.5 m
- Habit
- Cascading
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Position
- Full sun, Partial shade
- Soil
- Loamy, Humus-rich
- pH reaction
- pH 6–7.5
- Moisture
- Moderate, Moist
- Bloom
- July–August
- Hardiness
- USDA 3a–8b
- Propagation
- From cuttings, By runners, By division
Characteristics
A herbaceous twining climber with rough, hairy shoots and palmately lobed leaves with a serrated edge. The plant is dioecious — male and female specimens are separate; the female inflorescences develop into the characteristic scaly, pale green cones used in brewing. The rootstock is perennial, but the above-ground shoots die back in autumn and regrow from the base each spring.
Growing and care
Watering
Very vigorous growth in spring and summer requires regular, generous watering, especially in the first year after planting.
Fertilizing
Hop is a heavy feeder — it responds well to regular, moderate doses of fertiliser throughout the period of vigorous growth.
Planting
Plant next to a solid, tall support (pole, string, pergola) — shoots can grow several metres in a single season and twine clockwise around the support.
Pruning calendar
Pruning group: Vigorous climbers — keep in check in spring
What and how to cut
In early spring, as the plant starts into growth, shorten the shoots back to the limits you have set and cut off any working their way under roof tiles and gutters; in summer, trim back the excess.
In spring, when new shoots appear from the rootstock.
What not to do
Do not let the shoots grow into the facade, cracks and gutters — they are hard to remove later, and tearing them off damages the plaster.
Companion plants
Good companions
Hop twines around its support and can grow several metres over a season, so it pairs well with structures it will quickly cover in greenery.
A large, woody shrub can serve as a natural, living support for hop shoots at the edge of the garden, provided it is substantial enough not to be overwhelmed.
Bad companions
Hop's runners spread vigorously underground and can crowd out shallow-rooted plants, competing for water and space.
The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.
Diseases and pests
Yellow or angular (vein-bounded) spots on the upper leaf surface, matched underneath by a grey-violet or brown coating of spores. It differs from powdery mildew, whose white coating sits on the upper surface. It develops in humidity and cool nights and is dangerous to cucumbers, onions and grapevines. The spots are initially light green or yellowing, and their angular, mosaic-like shape arises because the pathogen's spread is halted by the larger leaf veins. The delicate, felt-like coating on the underside (hence the name 'mildew') is the sporulation of the oomycete — best seen in the morning or after a period of high air humidity. Over time the spots turn brown, dry out and merge, the leaf dies prematurely, which weakens the whole plant and lowers the yield. The disease is highly host-specialised: cucumbers and squashes are attacked by Pseudoperonospora cubensis, onion by Peronospora destructor, grapevine by Plasmopara viticola, and lettuce by Bremia lactucae — so infection of one species usually does not spread to unrelated crops.
Powdery mildewA white, powdery coating on leaves, shoots and buds. The leaves turn yellow, become deformed and drop prematurely. The coating develops on both sides of the leaf blade, is often clearly visible from above, and can easily be rubbed off with a finger — it is the superficial mycelium of an ectoparasite that draws nutrients from the epidermal cells by means of feeding structures (haustoria). At first single, round, white spots appear, which in time merge and cover the entire leaf surface and the young growth. Young leaves and the current season's shoots are the most susceptible; heavy infection causes them to pucker, stiffen and stop growing, and on buds it leads to deformation or death of the flowers. On the fruit of some species (gooseberry, apple, cucurbits) the coating leaves russeting or a corky skin. Towards the end of the season, small, dark fruiting bodies (chasmothecia, formerly called cleistothecia) — the pathogen's overwintering structures — appear within the coating. The disease affects many plants, including roses, oak, privet, lilac, cucurbits, cereals, grapevine, apple, gooseberry, phlox and coneflowers, with each of these hosts being infected by a specialised species of fungus.
AphidsSmall (1–3 mm) soft-bodied insects, green, black or pink, feeding in clusters on young shoots and the underside of leaves. They excrete sticky honeydew. The diagnostic feature that distinguishes aphids from other small sucking insects is the pair of siphunculi (tubular projections) at the rear of the abdomen together with a tail-like cauda; a single colony usually holds wingless forms (parthenogenetic females) alongside winged migrants that fly onto new plants in summer. In summer aphids reproduce parthenogenetically and viviparously over many generations, so the population builds up explosively; in autumn many species produce a sexual generation that lays overwintering eggs on the host, and host-alternating species move between a winter host (often a tree or shrub) and a summer host (a herbaceous plant). Feeding symptoms include curling, crinkling and distortion of young leaves, stunted growth, yellowing, and the shedding of buds and fruitlets. Abundant honeydew coats the leaves, and the sooty mould fungus that develops on it forms a black film which limits photosynthesis; the honeydew is fed on by ants, which in return defend the colony against predators. Aphids are also important vectors of plant viruses (mosaics among them), transmitting them from plant to plant even during a brief probing puncture.
Spider mitesTiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.
Toxicity
| For whom | Level | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Humans | Mild | Contact with the rough, hairy shoots and leaves can irritate the skin (contact dermatitis). |
| Dogs | Lethal | Hop is highly toxic to dogs — even small amounts of cones or brewing waste can trigger malignant hyperthermia, seizures and death. Dogs must never be allowed access to the crop or to compost containing hop residue. |
| Cats | Moderate | — |
History and origin
Growing hops for brewing has a centuries-old tradition in Central Europe — in Poland hop cultivation developed from the Middle Ages onward, and regions such as the areas around Lublin and Nowy Sącz are historically associated with its growing. Earlier, in folk herbal medicine, hop cones were used as a sedative and sleep aid, for instance placed in herbal pillows.
Uses
For covering pergolas, fences and tall garden structures as a fast-growing green screen within one season. Female cones are used in home brewing and in herbal medicine as a mild sedative and sleep aid.
Trivia
- The aromatic resins and essential oils contained in hop cones give beer its characteristic bitterness and aroma — they determine the style of many craft beers.
- Young hop shoots, known as hop asparagus, are edible and in some regions of Europe are traditionally harvested in spring as a vegetable, similarly to asparagus.
Frequently asked questions
Is hop safe for pets?
For dogs, definitely not. Hop, especially cones and brewing waste, is highly toxic to dogs and can trigger life-threatening malignant hyperthermia even in small amounts. Hop plants and compost containing hop residue must be strictly kept away from dogs.
How fast does hop grow during the season?
Very fast — a mature rootstock can send up shoots growing by as much as a dozen or so centimetres a day at the height of the season, reaching several metres in length from spring to summer. That's why it needs a solid, tall support from the start.
Does hop need to be replanted every year?
No — the rootstock is perennial and frost-hardy even in very harsh climate zones. The above-ground shoots die back in autumn, but regrow in spring from the same base, so once planted, hop can grow in the same spot for many years.
Sources
- Plants of the World Online (POWO)Database (GBIF, POWO…)
- USDA PLANTS Database — Humulus lupulusDatabase (GBIF, POWO…)
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