Poinsettia

Euphorbia pulcherrima · Poinsettia (EN) · Weihnachtsstern (DE)

The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a Mexican shrub of the spurge family, grown in pots as a Christmas plant — its famous red “flowers” are in fact recoloured leaves surrounding small, yellow inflorescences.

Full sun/Partial shade High watering Toxic
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In short

  • The colourful “petals” are bracts (leaves), not flowers — the true flowers are yellow and inconspicuous.
  • They only change colour if the plant receives 14 hours of complete darkness a day in autumn.
  • A warm and bright position, without draughts; cold during the journey home from the shop is what most often kills it.
  • Water sparingly and cut open the decorative foil — standing water loses the roots.
  • The popular myth about deadly toxicity is untrue — the milky sap merely irritates.

Botanical data

Family
Euphorbiaceae (Euphorbiaceae)
Height
0.3–0.6 m
Width
0.3–0.5 m
Habit
Upright
Growth rate
Fast
Position
Full sun, Partial shade
Soil
Humus-rich, Peaty
pH reaction
pH 5.5–6.5
Moisture
Moderate
Bloom
November–February
Hardiness
Propagation
From cuttings

Characteristics

A shrub with shoots that are woody at the base and exude a white milky sap when damaged. In pot cultivation it is chemically restricted to 30-60 cm; in the wild and planted out in a warm climate it reaches 2-4 m. The leaves are dark green, ovate, often lobed. The true inflorescences, called cyathia, are small, yellow-green and gathered in the centre of the rosette; they are surrounded by a ring of large, brightly coloured bracts — red, pink, cream or marbled. After flowering the plant drops its leaves and enters dormancy.

Growing and care

Watering

Water with a small amount of lukewarm water once the top layer of substrate has dried out. The most common cause of death in Christmas specimens is water collecting in the decorative foil or cachepot — the foil must be cut open immediately after purchase and any excess water poured away.

In summer every ~5 days · drought tolerance: Low

Fertilizing

Do not fertilise while the bracts are recolouring or during flowering — resume feeding only after the spring pruning.

every 2-3 weeks from April to September · nawóz do roślin kwitnących

Planting

A free-draining peat substrate with perlite, in a pot only slightly larger than the previous one. A warm position (18-22 °C), without draughts and away from windows opened in winter.

Timing: repotting in spring (April-May), after pruning

Pruning

Shorten all the shoots to 10-15 cm above the substrate, leaving a few buds on each. The cuts bleed white sap — this can be stopped by spraying with lukewarm water or dusting with charcoal.

Timing: In spring, in April, once the bracts have faded and the plant has shed its leaves. · Caution: Do not prune in autumn or winter — pruning after September removes the shoots on which the bracts were to recolour, and cancels out the Christmas effect.

Companion plants

Good companions

Flaming KatyResearch-backed

Both plants are short-day plants and come into flower in winter under the same regime of long nights — they can be shaded together in autumn.

CrotonPractical observation

The same need for warmth, a bright position and protection from draughts; plus the contrast of the recoloured leaves of both species.

Bad companions

Boston fernPractical observation

The fern requires constantly moist substrate and misting — under such watering the poinsettia quickly rots at the base of the shoots.

The evidence level indicates whether the relationship is backed by research, observation, or gardening tradition.

Diseases and pests

Root rot (Phytophthora root rot)

The disease develops in overly wet, poorly aerated substrate and attacks the roots and the base of the stem. The roots turn brown, rot and lose their bark, which slips off easily, and a dark, watery rot appears at the stem base. The above-ground part wilts, yellows and dies back despite moist soil – a characteristic symptom, because the damaged roots no longer take up water. Especially at risk are houseplants, succulents and cacti (from overwatering), and in the ground conifers, rhododendrons, ericaceous plants and strawberries on waterlogged sites. The process begins inconspicuously at the root hairs and root tips, which darken and disappear, after which the rot advances towards the framework roots and the root collar. Healthy, pale, active roots waste away — what remains is a dark, rusty-brown or blackish, watery mass, and the outer layer of the root bark slips off like a glove, exposing the discoloured central cylinder. In trees and shrubs, infection of the collar and the base of the trunk (stem-base rot) shows as a dark, often streaking patch, sometimes with oozing, and the bark there is moist and sunken; in conifers and rhododendrons, browning and dieback are seen from the bottom or from the centre of the crown while the soil is still moist. Characteristic is the nested (patchy) occurrence of symptoms in the bed — where water and the pathogen accumulate locally. It is worth distinguishing the two causal oomycete genera: Pythium mainly attacks seedlings and fine roots, causing damping-off and root rot in cool, wet substrate, whereas Phytophthora also attacks older, woody plants, framework roots and the collar, more strongly in warmer, water-saturated soil. Key for diagnosis is the contradiction of the symptoms: the plant wilts and looks 'dry', although the substrate is wet — this results from the destruction of the roots, not from a shortage of water.

Grey mould

A grey-brown, fluffy coating of mycelium on flowers, fruit, leaves and shoots, preceded by watery, rotting spots. It attacks weakened and damaged tissue and develops rapidly in humidity and cool conditions and where air circulation is poor. Common on strawberries, begonias, peonies and roses. The coating is characteristically 'mousy' — fluffy and ashy grey, and when the infected tissue is knocked a visible cloud of spores (conidia) puffs up, which is a diagnostic feature of this disease. Infection usually starts in the weakest tissues: fading petals, wounds, hail marks or pest feeding damage, as well as pollen residue settled on the petals. Small, brown, watery spots appear on the flowers and quickly engulf the whole bloom ('flower blight'); from the infected flower the fungus often grows down into the shoot, causing it to constrict and die back. On soft fruit (strawberry, raspberry, grapes, tomato) a watery, browning rot develops, covered with a thick layer of grey, fluffy felt — the berry softens and 'dissolves'. On seedlings and cuttings Botrytis causes basal stem rot and the sudden collapse of plants. In older, dying mycelium and on plant debris hard, black, irregular lumps form — sclerotia (resting bodies), by which the pathogen overwinters in the soil and in plant debris. The disease also shows up after harvest, as a rapidly advancing storage rot of fruit and vegetables.

Greenhouse whitefly

Tiny (1-2 mm) white insects resembling minuscule moths that rise in a cloud when the plant is disturbed. They feed on the underside of leaves, sucking sap and excreting honeydew. This causes yellowing and weakening. Common on tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and pelargoniums, especially in polytunnels and greenhouses. The wings of the adults are covered with a white, waxy bloom (hence the name) and at rest lie flat, roof-tile fashion over the body. Females lay their eggs on the underside of young leaves, often in characteristic arcs or circles, on short stalks. The eggs hatch into mobile first-instar larvae (so-called crawlers), which, once they find a feeding site, lose the ability to move and, as flat, oval, translucent greenish 'scales', attach themselves to the leaf until pupation. Feeding symptoms are pale spots, yellowing and wilting of the leaves and - most troublesome of all - copious honeydew, on which sooty mould (sooty mould fungi) develops, disfiguring leaves and fruit and limiting photosynthesis. In heated greenhouses the whitefly develops without interruption, producing many overlapping generations throughout the year; in the Polish climate it does not overwinter outdoors (it is killed by frost), so the source of infestation is protected cultivation and introduced seedlings, while in summer the insects may fly out into the open ground. The whitefly can also be a vector of plant viruses (criniviruses, e.g. tomato chlorosis virus).

Spider mites

Tiny (0.3–0.5 mm) arachnids, hard to spot with the naked eye, feeding on the underside of leaves. Symptoms: fine, pale speckling (feeding punctures); over time the leaves turn grey, yellow and dry out. Under heavy infestation a fine webbing becomes visible. Warm, dry air favours their development — a common problem for houseplants in winter near radiators. Spider mites are not insects but mites of the family Tetranychidae — adults have 8 legs (larvae only 6). The most common in cultivation is the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae): yellowish-green females carry two dark spots on the sides of the body, while overwintering females turn orange-red. In orchards the fruit tree red spider mite (Panonychus ulmi) is frequent, whose red eggs overwinter in clusters on the bark of the shoots. Feeding mechanism: the mites puncture the cells of the epidermis and mesophyll on the underside of the leaf and suck out their contents, and the emptied cells fill with air — hence the characteristic, silvery-grey, fine speckling visible from the upper side of the blade (resembling a mosaic discolouration). At high numbers the leaves turn brown, curl and drop prematurely, and the whole plant weakens and loses its growth. Dense webbing spun between the leaves and shoot tips appears only under an advanced attack and is a sign of the risk of the pest spreading to neighbouring plants. The development cycle is very fast in warmth and drought — at a temperature of 25–30°C a single generation can be completed in 1–2 weeks, hence the numerous generations per season and the rapid, exponential build-up of the population. Females lay spherical, transparent eggs on the underside of the leaves. Fertilised females overwinter (in bark crevices, leaf litter and plant debris) or — in the fruit tree red spider mite — the eggs on the bark. Early infestation is easy to miss; diagnosis is helped by shaking a leaf over a white sheet of paper (moving specks become visible) or examining the underside of the leaf with a magnifying glass.

Toxicity

For whomLevelNotes
Humans Mild Contrary to widespread opinion, it is not a deadly poisonous plant. The white milky sap irritates the skin and eyes, and eating the leaves may cause nausea or vomiting — toxicological studies and data from poison centres record no cases of serious poisoning.
Dogs Mild Irritation of the mouth, drooling and vomiting; the symptoms are usually mild and pass on their own.
Cats Mild

History and origin

In Aztec culture the plant was known as cuetlaxochitl and used for dyeing fabrics and in medicine. It owes the name “poinsettia” to Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first US minister to Mexico, who sent cuttings to South Carolina in 1828. The plant's association with Christmas spread in the 20th century thanks to the Californian Ecke family, who mastered the production of compact, richly coloured pot cultivars.

Uses

A seasonal interior decoration for the Christmas period — for a windowsill, table or counter, provided it is away from draughts and cold panes. With a little patience it can be kept as a perennial houseplant and brought to recolour again the following year. Because of the irritating sap, keep it out of reach of small children and animals.

Trivia

  • The belief in the deadly toxicity of the poinsettia stems from an unconfirmed 1919 account of a child's death after eating a leaf. Later toxicological studies and analyses of thousands of reports to poison centres have not shown a single case of serious poisoning — it is estimated that a child would have to eat several hundred leaves to exceed the toxic dose. The real problem remains the irritating milky sap, typical of the whole spurge family.
  • The plant is a short-day plant: the recolouring of the bracts is triggered not by cold or by fertilising, but by the length of the night. The light of a street lamp, or a lamp switched on in the evening in the same room, is enough to interrupt the autumn regime of darkness and produce, by Christmas, a plant with entirely green leaves.

Frequently asked questions

How do I make a poinsettia turn red again?

It is the length of the night that decides, not fertilising. The poinsettia is a short-day plant: from the end of September, for about 8-10 weeks, it must have at least 14 hours of complete darkness a day (for example from 18:00 to 8:00) and 10 hours of bright light, at 18-20 °C. In the evening cover it with a box or move it into a dark room. Any accidental light — a street lamp outside the window, a television, a lamp left on — interrupts the process and the bracts will stay green.

Is the poinsettia poisonous to children and cats?

Not in the way the popular myth claims. The white milky sap irritates the skin and eyes, and eating the leaves causes at most nausea, vomiting, or irritation of the mouth in animals. Data from poison centres do not confirm any cases of serious or fatal poisoning. Even so, it is better to place the plant out of reach of children and animals, and to wash your hands after pruning.

Why is my poinsettia dropping its leaves right after purchase?

This is usually the result of thermal shock on the way home from the shop (a dozen or so minutes below 10 °C is enough) or of water standing in the decorative foil. Buy plants packed in a protective sleeve, cut the foil open as soon as you get home, place the pot in a warm, bright spot without draughts, and water sparingly with lukewarm water.

Sources

Edited by:Redakcja Atlas-Flora. Updated: 7/16/2026.

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